homebrewandbeer.com

as an extract brewer, trying one or two fresh wort kits can give you an idea how good your beer would taste if you mashed - personally it was this that motivated me to try my first partial

but yeah otherwise i agree its more fun to have creative control

not that i have ever done this but i think the yield is far greater if you cook the stuff - a ratio of one quarter ounce to 125g butter seems to work well (my friend told me)

my friend also told me sativa and indica are different strains of the same plant with slightly different effects

you could probably mix the cascade and fuggles with some success

haven't done it myself but i know cascade and willamette go well together and willamette is quite similar to fuggles

not too many different types though - they admit the chappel hill store is the place to go for yeast

hey Pete there is no need to boil hops for 60 minutes if you are using the blue mountain lager can (as it already has the bitterness which is essentially what you get when you boil hops for 60 mins) unless you want the brew to be more bitter of course

for the 15 minute addition id recommend just ...

i love the cooper's bitter can too

id imagine safale would work pretty well

personally ive done it with the kit yeast and also most recently with WLP051 which was very nice with some crystal and ldme

it really depends what sort of pilsner you're talking about

german pils is supposed to be less malty than bohemian i think, although they are both supposed to be very hoppy

I'll back up brewer's choice either chappel hill or gaythorne, have dealt with the guy who runs the wacol store and he is also very helpful

also I agree that the kedron store is a bit dodge

thought this was interesting from the cooper's site FAQ section:

"We don't recommend replacing all of the sugar with malt exract when using our home brew ale yeast."

so you can't do an all-malt with the yeast under the lid.

that is a bit strange, maybe it is a flavour issue because I can't see ...

i have also tried a clone with willamette and cascade hops - not too bad, so if your HBS doesn't have chinook (i know mine doesn't) you could try that instead

hey Rob, if you want it close to LCPA you'll have to do more than play with the fermentables

to get a nice american pale ale somewhere in the ballpark though you could probably use either the BE1 or BE2, fermented with safale US-56 and add some cascade hops in for the grapefruit aroma (probably at ...

i found this link on another brewing forum a while back, it has listings of the mineral contents of a lot of different brands of bottled water, might come in handy if you plan to mash

http://mineralwaters.org

yeah looking over things, I think Palmer recommends for mashing approximately 2.5-3L per kilo of grain (he uses quarts and pounds so I may not have converted perfectly...) and I had 2.75kg grain with 6L

good to hear you got decent efficiency with a basic setup, gives me some hope

hey bk, what volume did you make it up to?

and did you manage to measure the actual efficiency? i attempted my first partial a few weeks ago using a grain bag and esky and got a very poor 43.5%... temps were ok so i think it was related to pH and too little water

didn't realise we had this thread, anyway..

nearly a graduated tooth puller

and i tend to swing both ways depending on whether it's federal, state or local

can the vienna be steeped? i thought it needed mashing

cooper's bitter can
500g light dry malt extract
500g cracked medium crystal steeped at 70*C for 30 mins
25g fuggles (10g @ 10 min, 15g @ flame out)
20 litre volume
WLP051 yeast


not heavy on the alcohol but tastes good, great head due to the crystal

hey dogger how did this one turn out?

I think oats in oatmeal stout actually replace a lot of the hop flavour so they must impart some taste. Don't know for sure as my oatmeal/imperial stout is way too green to try as yet.

my impression was sort of like fuggles but more...metallic? kinda hard to describe