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One "saaz-y" beer I tasted recently was the CZ beer Bakalar, imported by Barons. This was the freshest tasting CZ pils I have had to date, and at a very decent price. I was very happy with this beer, because most reputable Czech beers here are stale by the time I taste them, this had a great hoppy ...

Just to be picky... as far as I am aware, the rolled oats are what is traditionally considered an adjunct. It is an unmalted grain, and a source of extra starch to make use of the malt's enzymes. The other items are also called adjuncts, but I can't say why except that they are not malt, hops or ...

Bizier - get your hands on a bottle if Meantime IPA. If it was judged via the BJCP guidelines it would be an imperial IPA. Whatever you choose to call it i love it. Fuggles and EKG and lots of them.

I have had it, but I can safely say that the bottle I tried was tired and weary, so not ...

Interesting that you are using UK hops in a double IPA, which is west coast US's gift to the world.
Good to see you are using an aggressive yeast to dry it out.

I find I get some strange and often undesirable flavours when I use UK hops in very high levels. I am interested to hear how you go.

Yeah, I agree with the crystal, it is a pretty dry beer.

If you are feeling adventurous, I would say a partial mash using raw wheat (even flour) and rolled oats with some Galaxy malt or similar base malt.

The yeast will give you a big improvement.

I would definitely drink that if you put it in front of me.

If i was to shoot for a 'Coopers like' stout what should i change to get closer to it?

Use POR ? :)
Coopers stout is almost weizen like from the fermentation and has loads of banana on the nose, perhaps you could mix some other yeast in such as windsor.

I think the best way to do it is to get ...

The lager kit will probably add enough bitterness to just balance the beer given all the roast (which should counter the sweetness).

I suggest use Fuggles and perhaps a smaller portion of EKG.

If you already have the dark DME, then use that, but if you are buying it, I would suggest light DME ...

I am assuming that they are NZ Cascade to be flowers.
I believe that you can expect a ballpark figure of 20% more utilisation of your alpha acids with pellets compared to flowers. So I would add more.
A quick google search provided thishttp://www.brew-dudes.com/whole-hops-ho ... ellets/165

Hefeweizen with a proper liquid yeast, if not, WB06.
THE speed beer!

get stuck in and make it so that the ball is rolling.

Practice makes perfect; and as a bi-product it also makes increasingly great beer.

Go AG by all means, and do it cheap to begin. There is plenty of information on super-cheap 'ghetto' setups. Remember that you can consult more experienced ...

Some Belgian blond I brewed for a swap.

I am a little sad to say that it is a little autolysed. I guess it is because the particular yeast has a very fast metablolism.
It is generally pretty nice, though it has a bit of a peanut flavour that I think could have otherwise been avoided.

Yes your pot is not huge, but it is a damned sight better than the 7L spaghetti pot I used when I was doing partials, so you will be fine. I made a mild in a 19L pot with a grain bag for BIAB and won a gold in Sydney.

I should add that you might be best off substituting the kit with unhopped ...

My opinion of the given beer aside for a minute.

I actually brewed a beer not long ago using a blend of S04 and 34/70 yeasts and fermented at around 16 (can't remember exactly, but was aiming for between the two). After fermentation, the yeast profile was exactly like Fosters lagers e.g. Carlton ...

Sorry Jez,

It looks like you caught the tail end of the C02 from fermentation coming out of solution. A few days more (especially warm) and your brewed beer would have been flat as a pancake.

If they are all flat, carefully chuck a priming tab in and re-cap. I would be careful and possibly use a ...

I feel your pain.

How would you take that into account?

I let it warm back up to 18 degrees for bulk priming after chilling, and fill each bottle, but don't cap them 'til they are all done, then I cap them in roughly the same order again from the start. I calculate mine based on no significant residual C02 in ...

Once again, the ABSOLUTE BEST investment in homebrew is a temp controlled fridge.

I am ceaselessly amazed by people with keggerators and no temp controlled fermentation to speak of.

wrighty wrote:less questions in future.

No way.

Now you will be up in the middle of the night, paranoid about HSA in your mash and DO in your bottling line... And you will be making better beer than the big boys loving and absolutely it.

When calculating the amount of sugar used to prime you take into account the ambient temperature of the room you plan to allow the beer to carbonate in, not the initial temperature of the beer.

I disagree. I think because we are talking about a sealed vessel, a bottle, C02 will re-dissolve once ...