Stuck Sparges

Methods, ingredients, advice and equipment specific to all-grain (mash), partial mash (mini mash) and "brew in a bag" (BIAB) brewing.

Stuck Sparges

Postby db » Monday Jun 27, 2005 9:11 am

Got my 1st stuck sparge yesterday.. twice :?
After scooping the mash out & rinsing out the tun i put the mash back in & it flowed nicely.. then stuck again after 2mins :( after messing with it (& cursing) for 30mins i gave up & chucked the lot in the bin :cry:
:cry:

Does anyone have any tips for dealing with stuck sparges?
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Postby bkmad » Monday Jun 27, 2005 10:44 am

db,
Did you have a lot of wheat in your mash? I am by no means an expert in such things, but I seem to recall hearing that wheat tends to clog things up if there's not enough regular grain in the mash. Something to do with the husks of the wheat being too fine I think

bk
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Postby db » Monday Jun 27, 2005 11:17 am

i did.. but only 150g of crystal wheat.. which i've used more of in the past & never had any probs. i also had 250g of flaked maize which i was using for the first time.. but i don't think an amount that small would cause it.
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Postby bkmad » Monday Jun 27, 2005 11:24 am

I heard about this on a brewery tour (Macs brewery NZ) when they were talking about making wheat beers. From memory they said that as long as there was no more than 60% wheat (I can't remember the exact figure) there wasn't a problem, so it sounds unlikely that this was your problem.

bk
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Postby thehipone » Monday Jun 27, 2005 6:24 pm

What sort of manifold are you using in the mash tun?
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Postby Dogger Dan » Tuesday Jun 28, 2005 2:26 am

I minimize the stuck sparge as I put the slots on the underside of the manifold.

In order to clear it I blow back through the line and then collect the unclear liquor and refilter through the grain bed. I know someone will tell me introducing O2 will lead to oxidation especially at that temp but I figure scooping and rinsing is doing way more damage to the brewq than a simple blowback (I have only ever had 1 stuck sparge and I was likely sparging to fast)

Try the underside of the manifold for the slots. It really works well

Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
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Postby db » Tuesday Jun 28, 2005 8:34 am

thehipone wrote:What sort of manifold are you using in the mash tun?


I'm using a plastic false bottom

I know someone will tell me introducing O2 will lead to oxidation especially at that temp but I figure scooping and rinsing is doing way more damage to the brewq than a simple blowback (I have only ever had 1 stuck sparge and I was likely sparging to fast)

This probably sounds like the way to go Dogger (although i think it'd be more effective with a manifold than a false bottom).. i think the scooping out the mash & dumping it back in is what caused it to stick again. the grain just compacted with the finer particles settling out on the top of the grain bed & clogging flow from the top :cry:
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Postby Dogger Dan » Tuesday Jun 28, 2005 9:27 am

db,

I have some pics at my local if you want to see. I never did like the false bottom concept, have tried it but it never really worked well

http://groups.msn.com/DoggersHomebrew/shoebox.msnw

They are the same ones from the other post.

Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
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Postby db » Tuesday Jun 28, 2005 10:10 am

cheers Dogger.. i've been thinking that a manifold maybe the way to go.. i just dont like the thought of me with a hacksaw in my hands :D
i'll try a courser crush next time & see how it goes.. if it sticks again i'll build a manifold

would the mash thickness have anything to do with stuck sparges? ie. if i'm using a thinner mash is it more likely to stick?
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Postby thehipone » Tuesday Jun 28, 2005 6:18 pm

You might want to consider the stainless steel braid setup and batch sparging. THe braid is pretty rigid and doesnt collapse under the weight of all the grain.
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Postby Dogger Dan » Tuesday Jun 28, 2005 8:41 pm

hipone,

Got a pic pf that? Would like to see it

Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
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Postby undercover1 » Wednesday Jun 29, 2005 8:38 am

db,
If you keep having this problem, try floating your grain bed at the start of mashing by introducing some of the strike water in through your tap/outlet. It can be fiddly but a hose with one end in the outlet and a funnel on the other should do it.


Salut!
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Postby db » Wednesday Jun 29, 2005 8:59 am

thanks guys.

thehipone i did consider the braid but i've heard getting the cover/sleeve off them can be abit difficult?

dogger - check out: http://brewiki.org/wiki/homebrew/moin.c ... oldGallery

uc1.. i've heard underletting helps but unfortunatly its not really an option at the moment as the plastic false bottom floats up
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Postby undercover1 » Wednesday Jun 29, 2005 9:11 am

db wrote:i did consider the braid but i've heard getting the cover/sleeve off them can be a bit difficult?


With a hacksaw, pair of pliers, a vice & 5 minutes of grunting you're done.


Salut!
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Postby db » Wednesday Jun 29, 2005 9:58 am

undercover1 wrote:
db wrote:i did consider the braid but i've heard getting the cover/sleeve off them can be a bit difficult?


With a hacksaw, pair of pliers, a vice & 5 minutes of grunting you're done.


Salut!


:? sounds dangerous
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Postby thehipone » Wednesday Jun 29, 2005 7:12 pm

yup, that link about covers it.

Not really difficult to gut the braid, the other guys have got the right way to do it.
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Postby Dogger Dan » Wednesday Jun 29, 2005 10:46 pm

Does it move around or is it fixed like my copper manifold?
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Postby thehipone » Thursday Jun 30, 2005 12:36 pm

It's semi-rigid. It doesnt move much unless you make it move, and then it can only bend so much.
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