Basic brewing instructions

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Basic brewing instructions

Postby Danzar » Monday Nov 27, 2006 9:02 pm

Hi there,

I said in my last post that I wouldn't post these, on the basis that there's plenty of info on this site.

However, I've since received four email requests for them so I did a bit of searching and found that there really isn't a step-by-step basic guide to brewing a batch (the kind of guide you get inside the can) on the forum part of this site.

So, I'll take a punt and post these for your review. If you agree they should be a sticky, please critique the instructions and I'll make any necessary changes before asking the mods to turn them into a sticky (should they agree). Please note, these instructions are basic - how to prepare your fermenter, how to prepare your brew, how to brew etc. They assume no grains, boiling or racking. It's a newbies guide meant to complement this http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/howtobrew.html

Here goes:

First, read this guide here
Preparing the fermenter

1. Disassemble the fermenter - everything, including the taps, airlock, grommets etc.
2. Place cap over tap hole.
3. Add 2 teaspoons of pink cleaning agent to fermenter.
4. Add 2 litres of hot water.
5. Clean the fermenter thoroughly, ensuring all sediment reside is gone. DO NOT use a scourer as you will scratch your fermenter and risk later infection.
6. Empty and rinse in cold water.
7. Add another few teaspoons of sanitizing solution to the fermenter and fill with a few litres of cold water.
8. Throw in spoon, airlock, grommet, tap, sediment reducer, sugar measurer (the brown thing).
9. Attach lid.
10. Swish and roll the liquid around for a few minutes. Wash out tap by hand if necessary.
11. Pull out cap on tap hole and allow liquid to drain.
12. Rinse everything thoroughly in cold water.
13. Assemble fermenter. NB: Don't forget to turn the tap off at this point or your wort will just run out the tap!

Preparing the brew

1. Remove label from beer concentrate can and liquid malt extract (if any).
2. Sit the cans in hot water for ten minutes (this will loosen the contents).
3. Put the kettle on. This will be used for your hops (if any) later.
4. When your two cans have sat in the hot water for ten minutes, start making the brew. Just before you do though, start steeping your hops. You need to time it so the hops have finished steeping by the time you've finished making your brew. Hop steep times vary. Sometimes you boil rather than steep so use your judgment.

Making the brew

1. Place two litres of hot water into the fermenter.
2. Add the fermentables (brewing sugar or liquid malt) and stir thoroughly ensuring the fermentables have liquefied.
3. Add the beer concentrate and stir thoroughly until mixture is completely dissolved.
4. Fill the fermenter to the top (19-23 litres depending on recipe but leave at least an inch from the top) with cold water. While you're doing this, monitor the temperature. You want to keep it between 20 and 27 degrees (but ideally, 22) so add hot water to maintain the balance in lieu of cold water (if required).
5. As you add water, stir vigorously, and I mean vigorously - you want to aerate the wort.
6. Throw in the hops (including the water you soaked it in).
7. Take a reading using the hydrometer. This is your OG reading. Do this before you add the yeast.
8. Add the yeast - no need stir it in.
9. Seal.

Monitoring the brew

Over the first 24 hours the temperature will slowly drop until it reaches its "constant" level.

After this, if your temperature is between 18 to 27 degrees, it will take between 5 days (for temps closer to 27c) and 14 days (for temps closer to 18c) to brew.

Here's what I think

18 degrees 14 days
19 13
20 12
21 11
22 10
23 9
24 8
25 7
26 6
27 5

Increase this scale if temps are below 18 degrees.

However, many brewers simply leave it for two weeks, regardless of temperature.

Otherwise, using this guide, you want to take your first reading when the temp/days ratio is reached. Apply the formula (that comes with the instructions in the beer concentrate), using the starting reading (OG) and current reading (FG).

Here's the formula:

OG-FG
7.46 + 0.5 (which allows for secondary fermentation in bottle)

OG= Original gravity (your initial reading you took before adding yeast)
FG= Final gravity (reading you take when temp/days ratio is reached).

When applying your formula, you can remove the decimal points from OG & FG (1.042 become 1042).

NB: There's no need to take any readings before the minimum fermentation period has passed.

1. Gently unseal the lid and let the air escape.
2. Close the lid. (I usually leave it slightly unsealed via a small gap)
3. Draw half a cup of beer from the tap and tip it down the sink (this is full of sediment). You only need to do this once.
4. Pour some beer in your test tube.
5. Take a reading. Write it down.
6. Wait 24 hours then take a second reading.
7. Wait 24 hours then take a third reading. If reading has remained unchanged over this period, you're ready to bottle.
8. If it has changed wait another day or two before testing again.

Bottling the beer

1. Sterilise your bottles now, using the pink cleaning agent and rinse thoroughly with cold water.
2. A better way is to buy a plastic bottle cleaner pump and use the Santize cleaning solution - no need to rinse. Make sure you always rinse your bottles out after you finished drinking the contents. That way, you should only ever need to use the pump and sanitize solution, rather than the pink powder, which requires rinsing.
3. Using a sugar measurer, add white sugar (or preferably dextrose) to each bottle.
4. Fit the long pouring tube to the tap. Turn the tap on.
5. Insert tube into bottle.
6. Push bottle up to release liquid.
7. Repeat for each bottle.

Make sure you store bottles upright - it's not wine! Storing temperature should be at least 18 degrees for the first few days. After that, move it to a cool, dark place.

The only time you refrigerate beer during secondary fermentation is when brewing lagers (including pilsners) and only after four or five days in the bottle at 18+ degrees.

You can start tasting after two weeks but the longer you leave it, the better (even a year), as it:

- enhances flavour;
- allows the yeast to become more compact; and,
- reduces the bubble size.

Troubleshooting
Check this Q & A

http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/qanda.html

It's brilliant. Also has a section which tells you what to do if your beer didn't seem to ferment at all.

Other troubleshooting:

Beer's too gassy
Usually because fermentation didn't fully complete. Could also be too much sugar when bottling or the brew is infected.

Lack of head or no carbonation
Either you used too much water or you didn't rinse the cleaning agent out enough during preparation. Otherwise, you've cracked open a bottle too soon. Some take three weeks to carbonate fully.

White skin on top of fermented beer/sour taste
You've infected the beer because you either didn't clean you gear properly, you left the wort exposed for too long before adding yeast and sealing, or you didn't bottle quickly enough after fermentation completed.

Beer smells bad
Either the beer's infected (see above) or was brewed at too high a temperature.
Last edited by Danzar on Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 11:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby melbourne man » Monday Nov 27, 2006 9:53 pm

do you bother to steralize you bottle caps? or is this overkill?
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Postby spongmonkey » Monday Nov 27, 2006 9:59 pm

looks spot on to me, exactly what I needed when I started a few months ago.

I never steralise my caps, but tbh i've only bottled 3 batches!
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Re: Beer brewing instructions - for your review?

Postby BierMeister » Monday Nov 27, 2006 10:26 pm

1. Disassemble the fermenter - everything, including the taps, airlock, grommets etc.
2. Place cap over tap hole.
3. Add 2 teaspoons of pink cleaning agent to fermenter.
4. Add 2 litres of hot water.
5. Clean the fermenter thoroughly, ensuring all sediment reside is gone. DO NOT use a scourer as you will scratch your fermenter and risk later infection.
6. Empty and rinse in cold water.
7. Throw in spoon, airlock, grommet, tap, sediment reducer, sugar measurer (the brown thing).
8. Attach lid.
9. Swish and roll the liquid around for a few minutes. Wash out tap by hand if necessary.
10. Pull out cap on tap hole and allow liquid to drain.
11. Rinse everything thoroughly in cold water.
12. Assemble fermenter. NB: Don't forget to turn the tap off at this point or your wort will just run out the tap!


Good one apart from the fermentor section. I think you left out adding a sanitizing solution between steps 6 and 10. Just add that and I think you've got a good starting base for anyone.
Sounds like Beer O'clock.
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Postby rwh » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 9:14 am

I sanitise my caps. I just drop em in a bowl with a little idophor solution, then into another bowl filled with water, and from there onto the bottles.
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Re: Beer brewing instructions - for your review?

Postby Danzar » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 11:08 am

BierMeister wrote:
1. Disassemble the fermenter - everything, including the taps, airlock, grommets etc.
2. Place cap over tap hole.
3. Add 2 teaspoons of pink cleaning agent to fermenter.
4. Add 2 litres of hot water.
5. Clean the fermenter thoroughly, ensuring all sediment reside is gone. DO NOT use a scourer as you will scratch your fermenter and risk later infection.
6. Empty and rinse in cold water.
7. Throw in spoon, airlock, grommet, tap, sediment reducer, sugar measurer (the brown thing).
8. Attach lid.
9. Swish and roll the liquid around for a few minutes. Wash out tap by hand if necessary.
10. Pull out cap on tap hole and allow liquid to drain.
11. Rinse everything thoroughly in cold water.
12. Assemble fermenter. NB: Don't forget to turn the tap off at this point or your wort will just run out the tap!


Good one apart from the fermentor section. I think you left out adding a sanitizing solution between steps 6 and 10. Just add that and I think you've got a good starting base for anyone.

Thanks. Updated.
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Postby Danzar » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 11:11 am

melbourne man wrote:do you bother to steralize you bottle caps? or is this overkill?

I think it's overkill but only to the extent that in twenty or so batches I've never had an infection. However, I would promptly change my tune if I did.

Bear in mind, if you were to have a problem, you'd probably only kill one bottle rather than the entire batch, so, is it really worth the effort to save that one bottle?

Your call.
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Postby SpillsMostOfIt » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 11:33 am

With my most recent (second ever!) batch, I wrapped the tap in cling film and held it in place with a blue rubber band so that cleaners, cats and other things are less likely to infect it. I also have a plastic beaker that I sit over the air-lock as another belt-and-braces attempt.

From reading this and other fora, it seems that the worst (and apparently common) thing is infection, so healthy paranoia is kind of... well... healthy.
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Postby Noodles » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 11:56 am

I steralize the PET lids that i'm reusing, but I don't bother with the cap seals.
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Postby Danzar » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 12:00 pm

SpillsMostOfIt wrote:With my most recent (second ever!) batch, I wrapped the tap in cling film and held it in place with a blue rubber band so that cleaners, cats and other things are less likely to infect it. I also have a plastic beaker that I sit over the air-lock as another belt-and-braces attempt.

From reading this and other fora, it seems that the worst (and apparently common) thing is infection, so healthy paranoia is kind of... well... healthy.

Certainly is.

I've just started brewing in my cellar under the house as it's a consistent cool temp. I also wrapped the tap in cling wrap (my concern is bush critters of a 'rodent' variety).

Thanks for the idea using the beaker. Hope you're allowing that co2 to escape though....
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Postby Pale_Ale » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 1:53 pm

When I get a new pack of caps I don't wash, but I wash for subsequent brews. All I do is sterilise a strainer, put caps into a large bowl, fill with boiling water, then after a few minutes pour into the strainer
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Postby BierMeister » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 4:11 pm

Pale_Ale wrote:When I get a new pack of caps I don't wash, but I wash for subsequent brews. All I do is sterilise a strainer, put caps into a large bowl, fill with boiling water, then after a few minutes pour into the strainer


You reuse your caps? how is the seal? how many times do you reuse them?
Sounds like Beer O'clock.
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Postby Boonie » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 8:10 pm

I have always steralised my caps whether they are brand new or have been sitting in the cupboard.

Better to be safe than sorry is my opinion.

Remember, a couple of cockroaches or worse could have touched those lids.......a little anal, but I just like to be sure. :wink:
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Postby Pale_Ale » Tuesday Nov 28, 2006 10:39 pm

Sorry Biermeister, I should clarify.

There's normally 125 crown seals in a pack but I only use about 45 or so (combination of longnecks and stubbies) so that leave the remainder of the pack in the cupboard. The next time I go to bottle I'll always sterlise crown seals that have been in open packets.
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Postby Danzar » Thursday Nov 30, 2006 12:31 pm

Mods - is this worth a sticky? Your call....
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Postby BierMeister » Thursday Nov 30, 2006 1:45 pm

Pale_Ale wrote:Sorry Biermeister, I should clarify.

There's normally 125 crown seals in a pack but I only use about 45 or so (combination of longnecks and stubbies) so that leave the remainder of the pack in the cupboard. The next time I go to bottle I'll always sterlise crown seals that have been in open packets.


right. gotcha.

I sterilize whether new or pre-opened. Who knows what conditions are like in the factory they are made. could be a high wild yeast content in the air where they are produced etc... I have forgotten a couple of times, but I do try to make a habit of sanitizing the caps.
Sounds like Beer O'clock.
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Postby Oliver » Friday Dec 01, 2006 9:33 pm

Worth a sticky?

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Postby beernut » Friday Dec 01, 2006 10:33 pm

Good effort Danzar
My fingertips got sore just reading it.
It's certainly much easier if u go step by step.
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Postby BierMeister » Saturday Dec 02, 2006 1:55 pm

I think it's worth a sticky. Will save on repeat questions.
Sounds like Beer O'clock.
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Re: Basic brewing instructions

Postby jackmarshall » Thursday Jan 17, 2008 4:36 pm

The best thing I ever did was ditch the lid, airlock and grommet. Just cover the top of the fermenter with gladwrap and an elastic band to hold in place. Got this tip from some book and have never looked back. Saves time and three intricate components capable of causing infection. It also means you can see into your brew and can tell where your brew is at and when to bottle. This allows you to ditch the hydrometer readings (another potential moment for infection) unless you are really interested in presice alcohol content.

Also - ferment where you bottle. This is so simple and makes a huge difference. Set your fermenter up so you can bottle it without moving it.
Since doing this I can consistently pour clear beer from my bottles - no finnings -no racking, bottled straight from the fermenter - again less chance of infection, less work.

Finally I have a question - someone suggested to me that Bottle Wash Powder (Alkaline Salts) was basically the same as dishwashing powder. I have been told that the diswasher is unsuitable for bottle cleaning as the powder contains additives to give you that streak free shine on your glassware but which can affect head retention. But what would happen if I used the bottle wash powder in the dishwasher. Would it damadge the dishwasher or is it basically the same as the normal powder without the addatives. It would be one hell of a time saver and even includes a rinse cycle.
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