Put this down last night, straight onto the trub of a sparkling ale that used a coopers packet yeast, that is also on of the most impressive packet yeasts i've seen, anyway, wanted to put down rwh's cpa extract clone, but i made a few changes due to leftover bits and peices i had floating around.
1.5kg LLME
1kg LDME
100g Dry wheat malt extract
500g dex
40g cracked crystal grain
boiled 4l with the wheat malt and 300g of LDME
6g POR 60m
6g POR 20m
6g POR 5m
Boiled 10g Amarillo for 2 minutes and added another 10g at flameout adjusted to 80deg and steeped the grain/hops for about half an hour in a stocking that i had previously boiled.
added the liquid and the stocking, disolved the rest of the fermentables and brought up to 23L, smells absoloutly amazing, so much aroma lots of malt flavour, the airlock smell is reminicant of crckenback pale ale i think, but i don't know if they use amarillo.
Either way, if you have an ale that's finished and don't want to waste the trub, give this inexpensive recipe a shot. all i had to buy was a can of LLME as i had all the other stuf lying around.
My Amarillo pale ale
You must cool the wort to a temperature that will not kill the yeast, then top up with water. No added yeast is needed just a good stir!banger wrote:Gibbo,
A bit of clarification...I assume the trub is the stuff left at the bottom of the fermenter after bottling? So you just boiled up your ingredients etc, and then dropped it all on top of the trub?
How long does it take to begin fermenting? Do you need to add additional yeast?
I suppose if you added it slowly and stirred as you went that would not be a problem. Not too tough to just chuck the boiling pot into the sink or bath to cool it though.banger wrote:Kevnlis,
Cheers for that. Can i just dump a whole lot of cold water on top of the trub and then add the wort (assuming the temperature remains low enough not to kill the yeast?
Or you could scoop out a cup of the yeast slurry (the term trub is normarily used by the AGers to describe the shit left in the kettle after cooling, or at least thats my understanding) and then add that to your 23L of cooled wort.
Or take 2 cups and use one to ferment your new wort and save the other for a later brew!
You dont need anymore than that but dumping onto the entire yeast cake is a common thing, especially if you are using liquid yeasts.
With packets yeast i dont bother, they arent that expensive!
Or take 2 cups and use one to ferment your new wort and save the other for a later brew!
You dont need anymore than that but dumping onto the entire yeast cake is a common thing, especially if you are using liquid yeasts.
With packets yeast i dont bother, they arent that expensive!
I did my 4L boil in a 19L pot then added the rest of the fermentables and a stack of cold water, then siphoned it staright in.
This was my fist atempt at re-using a yeast cake and didn't want to balls up a more expensive brew, so i made a bitza one and it's going off like prawns in teh sun.
Plus i hate waiting for a packet yeast to take off, its alway's two day's of anxiety and sleepless nights and this pretty much got going in about 4 hours.
BTW its smells awesome out of the airlock and is nearly finished fermenting.
This was my fist atempt at re-using a yeast cake and didn't want to balls up a more expensive brew, so i made a bitza one and it's going off like prawns in teh sun.
Plus i hate waiting for a packet yeast to take off, its alway's two day's of anxiety and sleepless nights and this pretty much got going in about 4 hours.
BTW its smells awesome out of the airlock and is nearly finished fermenting.
I bet it smells good! Mmmmmm amarillo.........
As for taking a few days to take off, i use dry yeasts and just sprinkle them on top. I used to make starts but going thru a lazy streak. They fire up in 4-6 hours everytime.
How was the krausen? Havent pitched onto a yeast cake but read that with that much yeast it can be quite spectacular!
As for taking a few days to take off, i use dry yeasts and just sprinkle them on top. I used to make starts but going thru a lazy streak. They fire up in 4-6 hours everytime.
How was the krausen? Havent pitched onto a yeast cake but read that with that much yeast it can be quite spectacular!
Shite, a week 
, I better get my scoop of cake in asap.....it's been 5 days in a glass (sterilised of course) with Glad wrap around it.
Slightly off topic, what about my CSA yeast from the original bottles. I have done the same (glass etc) but it has been in there 2 weeks? OK??
Cheers
Boonie
, I better get my scoop of cake in asap.....it's been 5 days in a glass (sterilised of course) with Glad wrap around it.Slightly off topic, what about my CSA yeast from the original bottles. I have done the same (glass etc) but it has been in there 2 weeks? OK??
Cheers
Boonie
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
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Trough Lolly
- Posts: 1647
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- Contact:
Yep, that's called yeast autolysis...rwh wrote:Yeah, it's more that the other junk in the trub goes disgusting. I've tried it, capped some trub and tried to use it a month or so later. Ended up throwing it out because it was disgusting and smelled bad.
Yeast autolysis (aka auto-self-lysis-splitting), in very general terms, occurs when the existing yeast cells run out of sugars to consume in solution and the cells die through the action of their own enzymes which break down the cells structural molecules in order to find further nutrients - ie, it suicides out of starvation!
It can occur if you left the yeast in the fermenter for an extended period of time, long after the fermentation had concluded. To avoid autolysis in the bottled product, it's wise to make the yeast cells dormant - by refrigeration, or, by pasteurising the beer and removing the yeast altogether from the brewed beer, or by racking the beer to reduce the cell count in suspension.
Yeast autolysis does add significant levels of amino acids to the beer, as the walls rupture, but at this stage of the fermentation process, you wouldn't want to introduce amino acids (which tend to add to a fuller mouthfeel in the beer) via this process as the autolysing yeast adds substantial sulphur compounds to the beer and you'll get off flavours and a vegemite or meaty smell to the brew that may be impossible to remove.
Cheers,
TL
Crikey!
I kept some US56 in the fridge with some beery solution for 48hrs to settle out, poured off the beery solution & 2 months later pitched the remaining thick yeast after bringing back to room temp - made a top beer!
Am I just really lucky this worked without autolysis or did tipping off the beer when it cleared save me?
Sorry for the Hijack Gibbo
I kept some US56 in the fridge with some beery solution for 48hrs to settle out, poured off the beery solution & 2 months later pitched the remaining thick yeast after bringing back to room temp - made a top beer!
Am I just really lucky this worked without autolysis or did tipping off the beer when it cleared save me?
Sorry for the Hijack Gibbo
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Trough Lolly
- Posts: 1647
- Joined: Friday Feb 16, 2007 3:36 pm
- Location: Southern Canberra
- Contact:
The yeast went dormant in the cold fridge - autolysis usually occurs in the fermenter where the temp is correct for the yeast to be active. This is why you should keep your yeast samples in the fridge - or freezer if you plate the yeast cells out or keep them in slants with a part glycerine solution. click here if you want to read more...Ash wrote:Crikey!
I kept some US56 in the fridge with some beery solution for 48hrs to settle out, poured off the beery solution & 2 months later pitched the remaining thick yeast after bringing back to room temp - made a top beer!
Am I just really lucky this worked without autolysis or did tipping off the beer when it cleared save me?
Sorry for the Hijack Gibbo
Cheers,
TL