Fridging water before brewing
Fridging water before brewing
Hey All,
I wanted to run an idea past you, I'm sure some of you may already do it. I'm toying with the idea of putting my filtered water (20L) into the fridge the day before I brew. I've got a fridgemate so can set the temp. That way when I put my hot malt/hops/can in it won't take as long to reach a suitable temp to pitch the yeast.
In fact if I get the water the right temp, I may be able to pitch the yeast straight away.
Is there a problem with doing it this way? What's the ideal temp to get the water before 4 or so litres of malty/hoppy hot goodness in?
Cheers
Ash
I wanted to run an idea past you, I'm sure some of you may already do it. I'm toying with the idea of putting my filtered water (20L) into the fridge the day before I brew. I've got a fridgemate so can set the temp. That way when I put my hot malt/hops/can in it won't take as long to reach a suitable temp to pitch the yeast.
In fact if I get the water the right temp, I may be able to pitch the yeast straight away.
Is there a problem with doing it this way? What's the ideal temp to get the water before 4 or so litres of malty/hoppy hot goodness in?
Cheers
Ash
"Don't taste another man's homebrew... homebrew is like farts, it's OK if it's yours" - Richard Dobson Good Weekend 06
Excellent idea. I did this with the last of my extract brews, and it worked very well. Got the fermenter down to pitching temp as soon as it was all mixed up. Had about 6 litres of boiled wort from the specialty grains and hops, put the chilled water in the fermenter, and added the wort and extract, mixed, checked OG, and pitched yeast.
Different story with AG of course, as we do a full volume boil.
Different story with AG of course, as we do a full volume boil.
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Boy your tap water must be hot
Even here in Darwine I dont have any probs getting temps down to pitch straightaway
I do have a nice deep sink that I can put my stainless pot with hot wort . I top off with tap water and fill the sink around the pot then transfer it to fermentor and top to 22L
Brew temp is then 34C
Even here in Darwine I dont have any probs getting temps down to pitch straightaway
I do have a nice deep sink that I can put my stainless pot with hot wort . I top off with tap water and fill the sink around the pot then transfer it to fermentor and top to 22L
Brew temp is then 34C
34 is a bit high isnt it? I thought the aim was 18C.Longrasser wrote:Boy your tap water must be hot
Even here in Darwine I dont have any probs getting temps down to pitch straightaway
I do have a nice deep sink that I can put my stainless pot with hot wort . I top off with tap water and fill the sink around the pot then transfer it to fermentor and top to 22L
Brew temp is then 34C
I was just about to start filling some 2L coke bottles with water and putting them in the fridge the day before brewday. Last brew I did, the temp was 28C, so I want to get this down a bit.
That's a wee bit warm. I have done that before and it tasted like Banana.Longrasser wrote:Boy your tap water must be hot
Even here in Darwine I dont have any probs getting temps down to pitch straightaway
I do have a nice deep sink that I can put my stainless pot with hot wort . I top off with tap water and fill the sink around the pot then transfer it to fermentor and top to 22L
Brew temp is then 34C
I am using the same method but with ice bricks and ice in tub to "assist" with cooling. Best method I have tried was pre-boiled water, then frozen in coke bottle, then cut the bottle in half and add to wort. Alot of mucking about but the temp was right.

Cheers
Boonie
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
Give me a flying headbutt.......
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Guys, I used to pre-chill my brew water like this.
Then I ended up with a period of infected brews. 6 brews in a row were tipped down the sink.
I was unable to properly determine if the problem was the water, but was most likely a wild yeast. Still not sure.
I now boil the whole brew - 22 to 23 litres, and put cotton wool in the airlock, cool it overnight in the garage which gets it down to 30celsius or so. Then into brew fridge overnight again - this gets it to a good 18celsius. Now I pitch the yeast through a little funnel through the airlock hole. And sits brewing at 18celsius for two weeks.
I now have no problems with infections. Many fridges harbour bacteria, and my boiling process, though maybe more than necessary has gotten rid of any problems and I have since done about 15 brews.
Then I ended up with a period of infected brews. 6 brews in a row were tipped down the sink.
I was unable to properly determine if the problem was the water, but was most likely a wild yeast. Still not sure.
I now boil the whole brew - 22 to 23 litres, and put cotton wool in the airlock, cool it overnight in the garage which gets it down to 30celsius or so. Then into brew fridge overnight again - this gets it to a good 18celsius. Now I pitch the yeast through a little funnel through the airlock hole. And sits brewing at 18celsius for two weeks.
I now have no problems with infections. Many fridges harbour bacteria, and my boiling process, though maybe more than necessary has gotten rid of any problems and I have since done about 15 brews.
"Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer." - Dave Barry.
I don`t quite get that?scblack wrote:Guys, I used to pre-chill my brew water like this.
Then I ended up with a period of infected brews. 6 brews in a row were tipped down the sink.
I was unable to properly determine if the problem was the water, but was most likely a wild yeast. Still not sure.
I now boil the whole brew - 22 to 23 litres, and put cotton wool in the airlock, cool it overnight in the garage which gets it down to 30celsius or so. Then into brew fridge overnight again - this gets it to a good 18celsius. Now I pitch the yeast through a little funnel through the airlock hole. And sits brewing at 18celsius for two weeks.
I now have no problems with infections. Many fridges harbour bacteria, and my boiling process, though maybe more than necessary has gotten rid of any problems and I have since done about 15 brews.
How long are you leaving the boiled wort before pitching yeast?
Roughly 36 hours.ryan wrote: I don`t quite get that?
How long are you leaving the boiled wort before pitching yeast?
All works fine - I have to leave them the two weeks fermenting in brew fridge anyway, so no time is lost.
Just counted - now 20 brews done this way, all fine.

"Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer." - Dave Barry.
Well, I can`t argue with success!!scblack wrote:Roughly 36 hours.ryan wrote: I don`t quite get that?
How long are you leaving the boiled wort before pitching yeast?
All works fine - I have to leave them the two weeks fermenting in brew fridge anyway, so no time is lost.
Just counted - now 20 brews done this way, all fine.

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Hey Warra,
I'm trying to make the process quicker not slower
So won't be switching to AG anytime soon.
I can't see any reason why chilling water beforehand would make you more exposed to infection.
Cheers
Ash
I'm trying to make the process quicker not slower

I can't see any reason why chilling water beforehand would make you more exposed to infection.
Cheers
Ash
"Don't taste another man's homebrew... homebrew is like farts, it's OK if it's yours" - Richard Dobson Good Weekend 06
- Trough Lolly
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Without wanting to invoke the "no chill" debate on this thread, you need to be mindful of a few things when you leave the wort for 36 hours before pitching yeast...scblack wrote: Roughly 36 hours.
All works fine - I have to leave them the two weeks fermenting in brew fridge anyway, so no time is lost.
Just counted - now 20 brews done this way, all fine.
Obviously the risk of infection skyrockets as you pass 24 hours - you need to ensure that you have a good seal on the fermenter and if all's well, then your hygiene protocols are obviously keeping things in order.
The other two issues are DMS and your fridge.
DMS occurs in wort when it's left to cool off without chilling being performed - your wort produces DMS compounds whenever it's above 80C and that's why good brewing manuals recommend you boil your wort uncovered, to allow the DMS to leave the wort along with the steam vapour. At flameout, the brew is obviously very hot and making DMS and it will escape (along with hop aroma compounds, which is why I like to make an aroma addition when the wort is below 70C). An experienced palate will pick up DMS as a vegetable / cabbage / cooked corn flavour and although it's not a showstopper, it can give the beer a prematurely aged flavour...
Re the fridge, you need to be wary of not sending your fridge to an early grave if you shove a container of hot wort in the fridge each time you do a brew - that will give any fridge a hefty workout as you make it do the work instead of an immersion or counter-flow wort chiller.
Cheers,
TL

