Pom wrote:I have a 55l beer keg my local publican gave me and I was thinking of turning it into a large boil kettle. Has anyone done this before and do they have any tips. I wondering the best way to deal with the top and im thinking a tap in the bottom would be handy. Is it a big no no to get it welded in?
Cheers rob
bigpots wrote:In that case I might weld mine . Thought i would have to take it somewhere to be welded .
The new kettle will be doubling as a crayfish cooker (on the few times i get to go craying) so i can screw the tap out and put a bung in.
On the subject of kettles, is the nassa burner sutable to sit under this type without making a frame ?
thanks mick
I thought I just needed to put the ball valve in tan then maybe a 90 degree threaded nipple on the outside of the kettle. If I get the hole for the valve nice and low won't it drain ok anyway?Trough Lolly wrote: pickup tube or bazooka
Pom wrote:Thanks TL
Once I get the S/S ballvalve in I will probably make up up the easier of the two and maybe down the track look at making a T bazoka. Is that just normal copper solder on the copper elbow?
Im just about to order the S/S B/V from G&G, will take the keg to work and drill the hole on the big pedistal drill in the workshop, can get plenty of pressure and slow the drill down with it.
Thanks again for taking the time to put the pictures on that make it much easier to understand when you can see what you are talking about.
Cheers Rob
Soldering, Brazing, and Welding Tips
Soldering with a propane torch is the easiest way to join copper and brass. You can even use solder to join copper or brass to stainless steel, you just need the proper flux. But there are a couple tips to keep in mind to make it work right the first time:Use a liquid flux instead of a paste flux. The paste flux tends to leave tacky residue that is difficult to clean off. If you must use a paste flux, use it sparingly.
Brazing is like soldering but it is done at higher temperatures and is applicable to more metals. It can readily join stainless steel to itself, and is an alternative to welding. The recommended filler rod for brewing service is AWS type BAg-5, and its temperature range 1370-1550°F (743-843°C). While brazing can provide a stronger joint, the high brazing temperatures can be bad for stainless steel. At those temperatures, carbon in the stainless steel can form chromium carbides which takes the chromium out of solution, making the steel non-stainless near the joint. This area is prone to rust and cracking after it is in service. The problem cannot be fixed by re-passivation so it is best to avoid excessively heating the parts during the braze and keep the total time at temperature to four minutes or less. Propane torches are usually not adequate for brazing. You will need to use MAPP gas or acetylene. Welding is the best methods for joining stainless steel, but it takes skill to make a good joint.
Use plumbing (silver) solder only. Do not use electrical or jeweler's solder because these often contain lead or cadmium. These are toxic metals.
Apply solder separately to each of your parts before joining them. This practice is known as "tinning" and makes joining the parts easier. Heat the parts, not the solder. Play the flame all around the joint to get it good and hot before you apply the solder. This allows the solder to flow evenly over the joint.
Pom wrote:Jueen down to see my mate at the local Reece plumbing and to a picture of the G&G weldless B/V, picked up the B/V and m/m fitting for $35. Have a silcon washer and 90 bend and barb on order for less than $15. Bit cheaper than G&G and no postage. Once I put these in will start on the pick up bar. TL did you make the Bazoka bar or buy it? If you made it where did you get the S/S mesh from and how did you make the tube shape out of it?
Cheers Rob
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests