Page 2 of 3

Posted: Tuesday Aug 23, 2005 11:54 pm
by Tony
Another suggestion (particular for the "paler" styles like Canadian Blonde), ditch the brewing sugar, dextrose, BE1, BE2 etc, and use either LDM or Liquid Malt. I find it gives you a more full-bodied flavour, but takes a little while to settle down after bottling (4wks +)

Tony

Posted: Tuesday Aug 23, 2005 11:56 pm
by NTRabbit
Tony wrote:Another suggestion (particular for the "paler" styles like Canadian Blonde), ditch the brewing sugar, dextrose, BE1, BE2 etc, and use either LDM or Liquid Malt. I find it gives you a more full-bodied flavour, but takes a little while to settle down after bottling (4wks +)

Tony
Coopers make Liquid malt extracts so that works, but i dont think he has the time for 1 week of brewing plus 4 weeks of aging. Sounds like he has exactly one month from today.

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 3:05 am
by Dogger Dan
Do the Canadian Blonde, stay out of the brew enhancers, use 1.2 kilos of Coopers Malt extract and use the ale yeast, not the lager, you don't have time for that crap, make up to 23 litres but then don't add water to top it off. Coopers has an iso hop which will allow you to bitter it down on bottling if it seems to sweet when you bottle

This next part is most important. Use bottled water or filtered water to take out the chlorine and don't boil the water by itself, boil the wort (add a bit of clean passified copper pipe to it to).

When sanitizing your kit, use a hydrogen peroxide solution rather than chlorine bleach and the bottles you are going to be putting the beer in should be brown glass and rinse them with distilled water.

One last bit of advice, transfer the beer at least twice, once after about three days or when the yeast cap falls, the second after about a week in the secondary.

You are going to have to get started this weekend, two and half weeks fermenting, two and half in the bottle.

Oh, and with the bottles, wait a week, then stick in the fridge for the second week around 34 deg F

Dogger

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 9:30 am
by trueman
Dogger dan,

I think your method might be to advanced for me.

I dont know what you mean when you say.


make up to 23 litres but then don't add water to top it off.
don't boil the water by itself, boil the wort (add a bit of clean passified copper pipe to it to).
One last bit of advice, transfer the beer at least twice, once after about three days or when the yeast cap falls, the second after about a week in the secondary.
I think I would end up stuffing it up so might stick with something a little more easier to do. Thanks anyway.

I only have exactly four weeks to go and want to start another batch tomorrow night.

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 1:05 pm
by Oliver
Anonymous wrote:Why do I not get automatically logged in? WHy does it always let me post as a guest without me knowing Im not logged in?
Trueman,

The FAQ section has this answer:

Why do I get logged off automatically?
If you do not check the Log me in automatically box when you log in, the board will only keep you logged in for one hour. This prevents misuse of your account by anyone else. To stay logged in, check the box when you log in. This is not recommended if you access the board from a shared computer, e.g. library, internet cafe, university cluster, etc.


Also, you must have cookies enabled. And make sure your browser (Internet Explorer, Firefox, etc) is not set to delete cookies when you log off or after a certain amount of time.

A telltale sign that you're not logged on when you first visit is that all the glasses will be empty. If you're logged on, you should see some yellow, full glasses, indicating new posts.

Oliver

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 10:09 pm
by Lebowski
Coopers pale ale tin some honey and brew enchancer 2 always turns out pretty good for me, could add some cascade or other hops if you want.

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 10:27 pm
by trueman
Why do I get logged off automatically?
If you do not check the Log me in automatically box when you log in, the board will only keep you logged in for one hour. This prevents misuse of your account by anyone else. To stay logged in, check the box when you log in. This is not recommended if you access the board from a shared computer, e.g. library, internet cafe, university cluster, etc.

Also, you must have cookies enabled. And make sure your browser (Internet Explorer, Firefox, etc) is not set to delete cookies when you log off or after a certain amount of time.
Thats the thing Oliver I did have that ticked. I had followed the thread through an e-mail alert so unless that had something to do with it. It seems to be working okay now though anyway. Thanks.

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 10:33 pm
by trueman
Lebowski wrote:Coopers pale ale tin some honey and brew enchancer 2 always turns out pretty good for me, could add some cascade or other hops if you want.
I went to Coles today and they were all out of Brew enhancer #1 which I needed for the Canadian Blonde or the Irish Ale. That being the case its helped me make my mind up and I will give the Pale Ale a try with Brew enhancer #2 and only 19 litres of water. I dont have to control the temp as much doing this either as ambient here is around 26C at the moment.

Lebowski how much honey should I add and does it matter what kind?

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 10:49 pm
by tcc
Dogger Dan wrote:
This next part is most important. Use bottled water or filtered water to take out the chlorine and don't boil the water by itself, boil the wort (add a bit of clean passified copper pipe to it to).

Dogger
what does the copper pipe do Dogger?

Posted: Wednesday Aug 24, 2005 11:06 pm
by Guest
I'm no expert but I've heard using honey that is made near eucalyptus trees can leave a bad taste.
I just use the honey my dad makes on his farm, someone else here might be able to tell you a good type of honey to use.
I usualy use about 300-500mls

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 2:51 am
by Dogger Dan
The copper pipe is pure magic. Most people don't even know its required. Back in the past, the kettles brewed in used to be made of copper, now of course they are stainless or aluminium.

The copper pipe relives those glorious brewing days when we extracting Copper ions. I have never made a bad beer with a bit of copper pipe in the boil. Doubt me if you will but if I was submitting a brew for the chance at winning a years supply of Coopers, I would pull out all the stops. Remember, this isn't going to be won by a large recipie but by the brewer who does the little things right.

So to ease this a bit, add the can and malt extract and the bit of pipe to about 6 litres of filtered or bottled water (not distilled)

Bring to a boil, stirring regularly

boil for 20 minutes, remove the pipe

put in primary, top off with bottled or filtered water to 23 litres, sloshing merrily

Pitch Coopers Ale yeast, not the SAF Lager under the can lid.

ferment, likely three days.

Transfer to secondary

finish fermenting (about 1 week)

transfer again, sit for 72 hrs.

Bottle. Let the bottles sit about a week at room temp then put them in the fridge for the final week.

Again, look after the small things and you will be away

Dogger

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 8:15 pm
by Shaun
trueman you want to try and get the temp of the brew down to 20 deg as this little thing will make a big difference.

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 8:53 pm
by trueman
Due to time constraints and whats available at Coles I am going to go with Coopers Pale Ale with brew enhancer #2 19 litres water and add 300 ml of honey.

Do I need to put in 300ml less of brew enhancer #2 as well or wont it matter?

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 9:01 pm
by Tony
Trueman,

It won't matter. I often find that with Cooper's that it doesn't ferment out as well I expect, so a bit extra in there to raise the alcohol content won't go astray.

Tony

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 9:05 pm
by trueman
Thanks Tony. Do you think 300gms honey is enough or should I add 500 instead?

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 9:12 pm
by Tony
Given that you're working to a tight timeframe here, I'd stick with the 300ml, as the honey taste can sometimes be strong in new beer.

If you were to go to 500ml, I'd consider dropping the BE2 to about 750g.

Tony

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 9:27 pm
by trueman
Okay I will stick with 300ml then. Thanks again.

Posted: Thursday Aug 25, 2005 9:55 pm
by Hully
Dogger

Am also curious about the copper pipe.

How do you passivate it :?:

Posted: Friday Aug 26, 2005 2:30 am
by Dogger Dan
Hully


Vinegar, more on this later when I talk about International Passification Day.

Additionally beer is acidic

Dogger

Posted: Friday Aug 26, 2005 10:35 am
by beermeister
Let us know how you go in the comp, Trueman.

BM