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Posted: Thursday Oct 13, 2005 4:01 pm
by yardglass
Dogger Dan wrote:
Use about 1 tsp Irish Moss in final 20 min of boil too, It will take away chill haze
Dogger
Cheers Dogger,
Going to give it a go tomorrow.
The Irish Moss isn't critical is it ?
My HBS would send me to the chemist (drug store)

if i asked for it, can just hear her now
''We don't stock Cough Syrup'', same person who reccommended Sod Met in the Malt Extract.
thanks again
yardglass
Re: partial mash
Posted: Thursday Oct 13, 2005 8:40 pm
by yardglass
Herby wrote:hey yardglass,
The process you are describing is basically where I'm up to with my brewing, with a few exceptions.
If you can get some base malt instead of the crystal, and sort the bitterness issue out, you are very close to making some kick arse beers.
cheers
herby
hey herby,
I meant to ask you in my earlier post what improvements, bonuses you have noticed with your beers since you've been playing with grain.
Need to justify this extra work i suppose
cheers
yardglass
Posted: Friday Oct 14, 2005 2:27 am
by Dogger Dan
Yard Glass
I gues I should clear up chill haze
Your beer will be clear in the bottle, you put it in the fridge and it goes cloudy
It doesn't taste bad, it is just appearance
Dogger
improvements
Posted: Friday Oct 14, 2005 6:31 am
by Herby
Improvements are a fresher tasting brew that you have more control over and can customise to your likings. You can play around with different malts, different temps to extract different characteristics from the grain, and also play around with different hops (which you could do anyway, but the partial process really lends itself to it).
It's also a good way to develop your brewing knowledge further, and can easily be done with utensils you probably already own.
Give it a go
Posted: Friday Oct 14, 2005 6:58 am
by stevem
Just a further question about steeping. I have seen quite a few recipes that say after you have steeped you pour the liquid into the fermenter. No mention of boiling. I believe it should be boiled but my question is, is the temp of 70 degrees C that you steep at high enough to kill off any nasties that may be in your grain?
Thanks
Cheers
Steve
Posted: Friday Oct 14, 2005 7:21 am
by gregb
FWIW - I've done both where I have boiled, or not boiled, with no noticable ill affects.
Cheers,
Greg
Posted: Friday Oct 14, 2005 10:56 am
by Aussie Claret
stevem,
From my limited knowledge you are supposed to steep the grains at around 70c for upto and hour. After you remove the grain, then boil to kill any nasties. Do not boil the grains as they can release tannins that are quite bitter.
Cheers
AC
Posted: Saturday Oct 15, 2005 3:53 pm
by yardglass
this is what i went with,
500gm Crystal steeped (sp?) 30min
Coopers Bavarian
1kg Dry Malt
500gm Sunflower/Ironbark Honey
Cascade pellets
25gm Cracked Coriander
23gm w34/70
I boiled the lot for 30 min with hops @ 20min and 1min, Coriander @ 10min.
Pitched @ 22*, i've got it cooled off now to about 17*.
I pitched two sachets of w34/70 because i read somewhere that the proper ratio is 1gm per litre for dried yeast. I won't make a habit of it ( $$$ ).
The Boil smelt bloody awesome, just lifted the lid and the krausen looks like the head on a pint of Guiness.
Going to get my shit together now and do a proper Extract/Mash.
cheers
yardy
Posted: Tuesday Dec 20, 2005 11:33 am
by MHD
apologies for bring up such a long dead subject, but what did you end up doing for Hops?
Posted: Tuesday Dec 20, 2005 6:20 pm
by yardglass
MHD wrote:apologies for bring up such a long dead subject, but what did you end up doing for Hops?
beer never dies dude, no apologies please.
"doing for hops", is it weights ?
not sure what you're after here, so i'll go with this.
this recipe is
pre digital scales, so all brewing notes are in tbsp measure,

(you do what you can).
a rough estimate would be two additions (Cascade) of 12gm each @ the times i posted earlier.
10min into a 30min boil for #1, and #2 @ 1min before you turn the heat off.
this was a first for me in regards to honey and grain, minor effort = major results.
this really was(imo)a very nice grog, i've a similar one underway atm, only diff is temp control.
beers
yard
Posted: Tuesday Dec 20, 2005 6:49 pm
by MHD
Yep... it was the timings I was after...
Are you using a kit base this time...
I am thinking about doing an extract + grain brew.. ie doing my own hopping ....
Posted: Tuesday Dec 20, 2005 7:29 pm
by yardglass
yeah,
went with a Blonde(

)and 12gm Hallertau @ start, the rest, the same.
jammed the hallertau in there because i think the blonde is not as hoppy as the Bav.
it's a long way from AG or even a Partial, but the diff it has, (imo) is well worth it.
let us know how it goes.
what yeast are you pitching btw?
Posted: Tuesday Dec 20, 2005 8:06 pm
by MHD
I'm keen to make an Ale so probably just safale...
Thinking something like:
1.5kg pale malt extract (or a kit)
500g of some sort of extract, probably dry malt extract
some amount of crystal malt steeped
POR hops for bittering
and cascade at the ends of the boil for aroma/flavour..
Also want to rack to dry whole POR hops in the secondary...
Still need to play with some numbers....
Posted: Tuesday Dec 20, 2005 8:51 pm
by yardglass
canbeera temps would be ok at the mo for an ale i'm surmising?
your recipe, i'd go a bit more on the LME, A Morgans Pale LME perhaps ?(for a kit + LME boil).
(the crystal adds bugger all to the OG)
i've never even sighted POR up here, let alone used them in a mix, so you're on your own with that dude.
my advice, when you hop into the secondary, make a Hop Tea in a Coffee Pot,(plunger), or steep them in a lge cup, strain, and rack onto them.
don't chuck them in dry, MO.
yard
Posted: Wednesday Dec 21, 2005 5:44 am
by MHD
humidity is very low so the whole wet towel technique works extremely well... had house temp of 26 and ferm temp of 18 one day
yeah, the recipie is under construction.... I thought POR would be an easy one to get being home grown...