homebrewandbeer.com

good info chaps.

ive got a heap of 500ml schofferhofer and a bulk prime would make the whole priming/bottling stage a heap easier!

cheers.

I've been using a method for some time now that has given me consistant results across stouts,ales and lagers
I have a 1lt spirit bottle with a 15ml shot pourer
Just assume every brew is 23lt and 30 bottles

8gm x 23 = 184 gm
30bot x 15ml = 450ml

prepare the same as bulk priming and one shot per bottle
It doesn't really matter how many ltrs u actually get because the dilution rate
remains the same in the individual bottles. The only variable is your priming
rate fizzy for lagers less so for stouts and ales in between

i remember seeing a chart some where on here that listed the fermentability of different primers

ie
dextose
white sugar
raw sugar
brown sugar
malt
etc

and then specified the grams required per litre

anyone seen this?? - may have been on another site

cheers

From the Essential Gude to Bulk Priming linked to above, for sugars other than dextrose:

* Table sugar (sucrose) - decrease numbers by 10%
* Dry malt extract - increase by 20-25% (depending on brand)
* Liquid malt extract - increase by 40% (depending on brand)
* Honey - increase by 50%

In 'Homebrewing Vol 1' Korzonas has a table where you pick the volume of CO2 you require, read accoss to the temp of your wort and the ounces per gallon are there.

Havn't used it, been to slack and guessing. (With mixed results )

Cheers,
Greg

Quart53,
this sounds very familiar

http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... php?t=1302

Glad to see someone else is also sold on the idea. Great work!!! Great for those keggers and the couple of litres left over, apart from an alternative to the scoop and bulk priming. The model I have is 7.4ml, so great for stubbies, and double shot for tallies.
I've sold a couple so it slowly getting acceptance.

Bally

THB,
Thks for the link, feel like I have just reinvented the wheel.
Just for your info, if I'm doing a mixed batch of stubbies and longnecks I just assume they are all stubbies and and prime for 60 bots, 1 shot for stubbies 2 for longnecks.
As u said this is quick, clean and as near to bulk priming for those of us who can't as you will get

cheers

is raw sugar just as fermenatble as white sugar?

or not as it is less refined?

my hunch (based on wiki) is that it's the same / the difference being negligiable

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar#Culinary_sugars

i'd also imagine that caster sugar is the same as white sugar but the granule sizes are different. So 1 gram of caster = 1 gram of white = 1 gram of raw.

da_damage_done wrote:i'd also imagine that caster sugar is the same as white sugar but the granule sizes are different.

I'd be careful using caster sugar if you're using a brewer's measure or teaspoon, because the grains are smaller, more sugar fits into the same volume. So, using the same measure: the smaller the granules = the fizzier the beer.
- Krusty

ashy wrote:I have had a few problems with my bulk priming of my last two beers. One being over gased and the other under. I now they have fermented out properly due to the time allowed and checking the readings prior to and after racking it. Having shonky scales hasn't helped, but I have now rectified this problem by buying a quality set. I work on 8gms of normal suger per litre. I normally start out with 23 litres but after racking it I end up with approx 22 litres of the golden amber to bottle. My question is should I base my 8 gms per litre on the original 23 litres I start with or the end result prior to dumping the beer onto the liquidfied suger.

Any tips would be grateful.

This is my first post for a couple of years and being member number 10 it is great to see how this site has grown in such a short time.

Dogger Dan do you have any other interests apart from BEER

Thanks

Ashy

180- 190 grams of sugar/dextrose works for me.

I like to bulk prime, for a few reasons:

First, it's another racking. You get your beer off the trub, so you can then move the fermenter around as much as you want, you can tip it up on an extreme angle to make sure you get the last of your beer out of there etc.

Second, it's easier. I'm sick of trying to remember which bottles I've primed or not, and I'm sick of dropping in carb drops and having the beer fiz up out of the bottles.

Third, it's cheaper (than carb drops). Carb drops aren't the most economical solution.

Fourth, it lets you use all different kinds of bottles without having to frig aroud with calculations of how much sugar goes in each bottle.

Fifth, it's more consistent. Once you've had a beer from a particular batch, you can have a reasonable expectation that the rest of them will be the same.

Sixth, and this one's probably not important... it's closer to what real breweries do. I love learning professional techniques.

There are probably things I've forgotten...

Carb drops go in before beer. Hence no fizzing.