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Posted: Friday Oct 20, 2006 4:44 pm
by rwh
Um, if you're using the absolute FG to determine whether it's ready to bottle, you're barking up the wrong tree. It only matters if it's constant. Most of my FG's have been around that, so yeah, bottle!
Posted: Friday Oct 20, 2006 4:51 pm
by Biggles
I am just slightly puzzled.
I had expected lower, because with an OG of 1042, the calc's give ABV as 4.0%. inc allowing for .5% for final bottle conditioning

Posted: Friday Oct 20, 2006 4:53 pm
by rwh
Yeah, I dunno why, but my attenuation seems to always be lower than I expect. I don't think any of my beers have gone below 1.010. Maybe I'm underpitching as I tend to either use the kit yeast or a single sachet of saf.
Posted: Friday Oct 20, 2006 9:09 pm
by Tipsy
lethaldog wrote:Hey completely off topic here, did you here that the boonie dolls are back, only thing being that you have to suffer massive torcher in which to get one.......... Thats right you need to
BUY a carton of VB

You buy the Boonie doll Lethal, they throw the slab in for free.

Posted: Saturday Oct 21, 2006 1:16 pm
by Biggles
Puzzled now. Temp has dropped a bit and is bubbling once every 2/3 mins now. SG has dropped to 1014, 24hrs after last check.
Guess its not done yet

Posted: Sunday Oct 22, 2006 11:57 am
by Boonie
Biggles wrote:Is 1016 low enough for the CPA, I only added an extra 300gr of LDM, over the recomended 1kg of BE2. ?
Sounds OK if reading is same.......but if you are worried, throw another yeast in and aerate the wort by picking up and giving a thorough shake.
I generally rack before doing this, but this is not everyones cup of tea

Re: Disregard it's a leak
Posted: Sunday Oct 22, 2006 12:52 pm
by atropine
ShizzleAlcohizzle wrote:I didn't even think of checking for leaks, the o-ring is one brew old. I detected a beer smell from one particular spot under the lid ( the lid may be a tad too tight ).
.
With my fermenter, I do the following to check if I have a nice air seal.
around about the middle of the barrel. I put my hands on either side and quickly depress. This ofcourse should move the water up the airlock. If it doens't you have a major seal leak and should examine crossthreading or perished orings etc.
Next test is to depress very very slowly at the same point. If you have a perfect seal you should be able to push the water up the airlock, the water level should hold while you keep pressure on it, then very slowly remove pressure from the barrel, and the water should suck down to exactly the same levels as it was previously.
I always use that test to make sure my coopers fermenter lid is properly sealed as for some reason you need to screw it on insanely tight, not just tight.
slow fermentation.
Posted: Saturday Nov 04, 2006 6:40 pm
by mark68
I've had a wheat beer goiung for 6 days now ,and it is still at 1018.I would have expected it to finish at around 1012,but that is dreaming .Next time i will use a lager yeast to brew this beer,as it finishes at 1010 more consistently.
Slow fermentation.
Posted: Saturday Nov 04, 2006 8:30 pm
by mark68
I've had a wheat beer going for 7 days and it's still brewing.So i guess that whatever you're yeast brews at is what eventually happens.I expected my brew to finish in 4 days,it is still going after 8 days.
Slow fermentation.
Posted: Saturday Nov 04, 2006 8:36 pm
by mark68
I've had us 56 going for 7 days,and it's still brewing.Don't know what i will do re bottling,i guess i'll bottle when it gets to as low as it will go.Probably around 1014.
Slow fermentation
Posted: Monday Nov 06, 2006 5:57 pm
by mark68
I,ve got a wheat beer brewing at the moment thats been going for 10 days at 20 degrees,and it still has full krausen.I will rack it off tomorrow if it keeps going,just to speed things up a little.