homebrewandbeer.com

By all means add an extra 500g. You'll add alcohol and body, and also a bit of sweetness, which means that the finished beer will appear to be less bitter.

I wouldn't add more than the 500g though. If you like it with 500g and think it needs more you can always do it next time.

Oliver

Cheers Oliver, Thanks mate.

To Dogger Dan,
My good Canadian Mounty Mate.
You put any can supplied yeast into the boil as
firstly - It is crap yeast, and secondly it provides
nutrients for the good yeast which you should be
using such as Safale or liquid Wyeast etc. Speak
to any good brewer and they will confirm that for you.

Cheers
West Beach Brewery

Righto Chaps,
Warning to you all regards the Coopers Pale Ale
supplied yeast. Not only is it crap but it does not
fully ferment out all the sugars in the wort.

My second Coopers Pale Ale ended up with a secondary
infection. I left my wort in the fermenter for 2 weeks....
before bottling and paid the price. As the Coopers
yeast did not ferment out all the sugars, some rogue
bacteria got in and did the job instead.

Alright, my fault for not bottling sooner....but do yourself
a favour and use a good liquid yeast or at the least Safale.
That way you'll get all the sugars consumed quickly and
so help to prevent any secondary infections.

The beer tastes off....but drinkable. Does anyone know if
it will improve with ageing??

West Beach Brewery.

I should have read these posts before brewing my Coopers Pale Ale.

I tasted it the other night 2 weeks after bottling and to say the least it was unimpressive, not like the real thing in any way. A bit flat. No off flavours though. Next time will heed the advice here and use better yeast, perhaps not use the BE2 either. Still drink it though, but luckily I have enough stock of another brew to get through until it matures and hopefully gets better.

Do you get the same flavour if you dont use the coopers yeast? Hope my last brew turns out ok

Anyone tried it with a yeast cultured from a bottle of Cooper's Pale Ale?

Oliver

Chris,

I have a Coopers which is fermenting out in two days. I have a White Labs which is still plugging after two weeks, in fact my skunked batches have been liquid yeasts because they don't start as cleanly as a Coopers dry yeast.

I will agree with the SAF Yeast being good, I have had great success with them and as a rule of thumb use them.

I also will not disagree with adding the dry yeast to the boil but I would suggest that if you are needing to add yeast neutrients to get a healthy fermentation something else is missing in your wort, ie you are using bottled or distilled water because you shouldn't need to add the neutrients to get a good fermentation from a dry yeast as they are already supplied (hence why you are pitching it in the boil)

Perhaps rather than the yeast not being able to digest the sugars in your wort, Perhaps the fermentation stuck?

The complexities revolving around yeast are great and I can see it is up to personel preference and experience.

For all the newbies who have sudden paranoia from this thread, if you used the Coopers Yeast it will be fine, using SAF Yeasts are better.

Dogger

Oliver - i tried one with a recultured coopers pale yeast. didn't quite goes as planned.. i suspect i may have botched the culturing altho the yeast didn't taste too bad before pitching. i'll leave this one for 3 months before ditching tho..
i'm loving this kit at the moment.. very good for messing around with. & usually gives good results.. & simple as.. did 1 recently with 1kg lme, 20g of cascade hops (boiled for 20min), 150g of crystal, & 2nd gen. wp001 - very pleasant..

Hey Chris,
you would think that Coopers Brewery probably know a thing or two about yeast. If they have put a brew out on the market that claims to imitate their pale ale would they supply second rate yeast or the best available?
As with all dry yeast I would smell the contents of the sachet to make sure it doesn't smell off and make a starter before pitching.
While you are pointing your finger at the yeast you should look at the three fingers pointing back at yourself...sounds like you have some issues with cleanliness and sanitisation.

Guys,

I have tried to culture about 6 Coopers Sparkling Ale to no avail.

I swear it is irradiated when it leaves the country and the yeast is dead as doornail.

Dogger

does the export sparkling have a 'best after' date dogger?

Yes,

but I am well inside... MMMM am thinking you are onto something Mr. Watson. Nice Job.

Dogger

Chris,

Coopers Pale is my staple beer - the one I always have available. Have not had one person with a negative comment re taste and I'm now up to 7 brews. I still play with other kits and flavours but at the moment at least cannot fault the Pale, made as suggested on the kit. Side by side my brew easily outshines the store-bought Pale

This is not an ad. Cheers

I made a pale ale Brew on Wednesday night, this morning i noticed most of the Brew Enhancer 2 was still at the bottom so this morning I gave it a stir forgetting that it contains some unfermentables, will it still be ok or did i stuff it up ?

If you sanitised your spoon, you will have probably not stuffed anything up.

In Homebrewing Vol 1 by Al Korzonas a passage refers to 'rousing' the yeast. This involves mixing settled yeast back into suspension. I have not had any problems doing this, but I swirl the bucket without taking the lid off.

Cheers,

Greg.

And even if you did not sanitise your spoon, you probably have not stuffed it up.

The only consideration when mixing after fermentation has begun is to not be too aggressive, as admitting oxygen at this stage is bad.

Cheers,

Oliver

Actually,

Don't get to concerned about inducing the O2 either, It may be required to get the fermentation going again and it will be stripped out by the CO2 during fermentation. The real time to worry about adding O2 is when it is hot as that is when you can really oxidize your wort.

I guess we are saying, don't worry, it will be fine

Dogger

Oliver wrote:Anyone tried it with a yeast cultured from a bottle of Cooper's Pale Ale?

Oliver

Dont know if you got a response to this one oliver - but I have put a number down with the yeast cultured from a Coopers Pale Stubby. I have success with the stubbies about 50 % of the time. Makes a great difference to the end product and I cant fault it. I enjoy the homebrew version to the bought stuff now as I add Light Malt and Honey just because, well hell, why not. All brewed during summer too with temps at about 28 the whole time - no probs. Keen to try a winter temp version.

Question ref the honey - when I bottle I squeeze ever muddy drop from the fermenter and find that these bottles are often the best. They certainly pack most of the honey overtones... Why? Dunno - just the sedimentary left over honey I guess.

gregb wrote: 'rousing' the yeast. This involves mixing settled yeast back into suspension. I have not had any problems doing this, but I swirl the bucket without taking the lid off.

or you can rack to secondary, when transfering you'll get some activity going if there is anything left to ferment. Not to mention you leave the trub behind and end up with a clearer beer.