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You can reculture with the dregs of CPA yeast from stubbies, I`ve done plenty using dregs from just 2 stubbies.Start it small and build/feed it up over a couple of days.
I haven`t done a reculture for a while tho, maybe Coopers have made a change to their bottling yeast since then. But I doubt it.

Another one 48hrs in (from a 6 pack of pale) and no action yet....

I warmed up the dregs to room temperature before pitching into a ~1.5l 1.040 room temp starter made from boiled LDME with some left over packet yeast boiled in for extra nutrient (placebo? meh), no signs of ferment as yet at 18*c (in my chiller box with a brew on the go) though the yeast looks pretty much normal creamy colour to me.

I'm up in Townsville BTW & I've only recultured from tallies before, first attempt at using a 6 pack of stubbies.


I was posting about this in a CSA clone thread (the brew I'm planning to use the yeast for) but I figured I may as well mention it in here seeing as it is on topic.

Ironic that I suggested being patient & then ended up in the same boat

I have reculture yeast from a stubby, i start off with 30ml 1040 food, it takes 48 hours to see some action. With ~24C, they have a better fighting chance for survival.

It had the slightest hint of a krausen forming this morning (approx 60hr point) so I took it out of the 17-18*c chiller box & put it on the kitchen table to warm up (was about 24*c ambient today inside my place)

Looks like warming it up helped, she's officially started now but I wouldn't call it dramatic.

If you are just harvesting the yeast in a starter, would keeping it warmer (better for yeast growth but bad for beer) have been a better idea from the outset?

Ash wrote:It had the slightest hint of a krausen forming this morning (approx 60hr point) so I took it out of the 17-18*c chiller box & put it on the kitchen table to warm up (was about 24*c ambient today inside my place)

Looks like warming it up helped, she's officially started now but I wouldn't call it dramatic.

If you are just harvesting the yeast in a starter, would keeping it warmer (better for yeast growth but bad for beer) have been a better idea from the outset?

We need to merge these 2 threads, it is the same point I raised earlier. Mine took off after 60 hours, and though it was not great, it should get the job done!

Perhaps they condition the bottling strain to thrive at standard room temp and the fermenting strain to thrive at 16C and this is why they repitch?

Yes, warm conditions are good for starters as yeast will multiply better under warmer conditions, for example liquid yeasts are meant to be kept around 25*C while getting the starter happenin and im no expert but the way i see it by the time your starter is up and running then there is plenty of little fellas to ensure a quick/healthy start to your beer when added and also make it possible to drop the temp down to brewing temp without stalling, im no scientist and dont totally understand it but it has always worked well for me with any starter i have made

I do my starters warm as well. It's not that critical as the yeast have to acclimatise to the new wort composition anyway, so they may as well acclimatise to the temp. There's actually a thread somewhere about cold pitching

http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=26969

Now, if that works, going from 25 to 18's not going to do sh!t.

One other thing... I use a stir plate to make my starters (uses a magnetic stir bar inside the starter to stir it constantly), and the evidence is that it increases your final yeast population by 2-3 times.

rwh wrote:I do my starters warm as well. It's not that critical as the yeast have to acclimatise to the new wort composition anyway, so they may as well acclimatise to the temp. There's actually a thread somewhere about cold pitching

http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=26969

Now, if that works, going from 25 to 18's not going to do sh!t.

One other thing... I use a stir plate to make my starters (uses a magnetic stir bar inside the starter to stir it constantly), and the evidence is that it increases your final yeast population by 2-3 times.

I was thinking of ordering one of those when I get my new Erlenmeyer Flask, which is made of borosilicate but is evidently not strong enough to handle boiling wort on a three ring burner with only the smallest burner running? First use of the $23 1L flask and it bloody broke!

Anyway, I was also contimplating using an aerating stone to keep things moving, which oxygenates the wort at the same time, which should mean faster stronger more plentiful yeast as far as I can tell.

Anyone know which would be better and why?

OK, "may" have hit another snag....


What should your culture of Coopers yeast taste like? Should the "beery solution" taste sour at all?

I don't want to pitch an infected starter, but I was thinking if this is a lager/ale hybrid yeast (well, rumoured a strain of each) perhaps it'll taste a bit off fermenting at ~24*c


I'm warming up a standby packet as I type this, so unless I fluke a really quick "go for it" post I think I'll be pitching it instead of the CPA culture.

I've only ever done it a couple of times but it's never tasted sour...

dry yeast it is.


I'm never going to step up to a liquid yeast if I can't get this culturing thing happening

Sorry mate but mine did take off and it is not sour at all. It actually has a remarkable CPA smell/taste to it!

It should taste like weak, bland, yeasty beer. Not sour.

just wondering why you guys are attempting to re-pitch CPA yeast, I have heard that they use a different yeast in their bottles, than the yeast they use for their primary fermenting. So essentially the yeast available in the bottles is not the real thing they use to get their flavors.

Curious

As far as i know your info is wrong, lcpa use a different one ( to my knowledge) but coopers dont

does this apply to all coopers beers from their pale ale through to stouts?

There you have it:

Coopers Sparkling Ale is traditionally cloudy. A lighter
version, brewed since the late 1800's, was re-released in 1988 as
Coopers Original Pale Ale. Both are unfiltered, non-pasteurized,
and bottle conditioned using the same yeast as in the primary
fermentation.

my info was incorrect


taken from http://vicbrew.org/Files/AABC2007StyleGuidelines.pdf Australian Style guides

Excellent find soy! I had confidence in Cooper's but it is good to see something that is a bit more concrete than chinese whispers

soymilk wrote:does this apply to all coopers beers from their pale ale through to stouts?

yeah, all the ales use the same yeast strain as far as i've heard.

not *totally* sure about the vintage ale.. anyone else know?

There are only the three strains as far as I am aware.