Crystal

General homebrew discussion, tips and help on kit and malt extract brewing, and talk about equipment. Queries on sourcing supplies and equipment should go in The Store.
N.C.
Posts: 52
Joined: Tuesday Oct 31, 2006 9:48 am
Location: Wyong, N.S.W.

Post by N.C. »

tow the line guys...

don't go asking questions now. just follow the instructions and keep your eyes to the front.

hardly radical, chris., as your reference to lambics indicates.

i've never had a problem with any beer i've made...

must be doing it totally wrong, hey?
chris.
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Post by chris. »

N.C. wrote: must be doing it totally wrong, hey?
Maybe not.

Just your own way (which just happens to conflict with everthing most people here have ever come across).

But if it works for you knock yourself out. It's your beer man :D
Last edited by chris. on Thursday Oct 11, 2007 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BierMeister
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Joined: Tuesday Jun 13, 2006 1:53 pm
Location: Adelaide

Post by BierMeister »

N.C. wrote:tow the line guys...

don't go asking questions now. just follow the instructions and keep your eyes to the front.

hardly radical, chris., as your reference to lambics indicates.

i've never had a problem with any beer i've made...

must be doing it totally wrong, hey?
N.C.

You're being far too emotive mate. Like I said earlier just try it different and see what the result is. I too have made good beer by doing things unorthodox, but I could never get consistency. If you like your method then cool, but you where the one that put your hand up to ask if there was another way.
Sounds like Beer O'clock.
N.C.
Posts: 52
Joined: Tuesday Oct 31, 2006 9:48 am
Location: Wyong, N.S.W.

Post by N.C. »

Actually I've only ever done a couple of brews where I've used whole grains as an extra. It has given a notably fuller flavour. I've not yet been convinced that grains need to be strained out, as long as you take certain precautions when using them in this way. On the other hand, I'm sure there are very good reasons for straining and these are what I have been looking for - not some patronising knee-jerk response... Alas, I got both.
Pale_Ale
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Joined: Wednesday Oct 25, 2006 10:46 pm
Location: Adelaide, SA

Post by Pale_Ale »

I can understand where you're coming from N.C. - I like to knw the 'why' as well, not the 'just because'.

But you are right, you got a few good answers in the end and that's all that matter. I know I'm convinced enough to take rwh's advice and get a sock :lol:
Coopers.
velophile
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Joined: Monday Jan 30, 2006 2:47 pm
Location: Northcote, Melbourne, Aust

Post by velophile »

I'll toss in another option for steeping grains.

I've got a large plastic strainer that fits neatly into a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Neither were very expensive (Asian supermarket/kitchen supply place in Abottsford Melbourne).

The grain goes in the strainer which goes in the bowl. Top up with water & leave to steep. It would be possible to gently heat the bowl if you felt the need (or in winter). I then lift out the strainer & place it in my boil pot (15litre Warehouse cheapie SS). Pour the runnings over the grain then "sparge" with more hot water from a kettle. I leave it to drain while I prep other stuff & usually have the heat on under the pot too.

I add the malt extract, any hops, some extra water etc. Usually stir in the kit can after the boil.

I've only ever strained any specialty grains & boiled the resulting runnings. I'm not about to put the whole lot in my fermenter, even as an experiment.
Maybe a btach could be split, with half the grain in one fermenter & the other half strained? Then another 2 batches with the runnings either boiled or just added after a hot steep???

I'll shut up now. :roll:
Ride, Drink, Repeat.
Hashie
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Post by Hashie »

The first time I used "crystal" I steeped and did not boil. The beer came out fine, no infection (that I could taste or smell), if a little to malty (only used 150 grams for a 20 litre batch).

Since, I have boiled every time and have noticed a significant reduction in the amount of malt flavour added to the beer. I still get much better head retention and greater mouth feel, with some added malt flavour. But no where near the amount I got the first time.

Just my experience.

Velophile, they say you shouldn't boil your kit as it reduces the hop aromas and flavours that are already present in the kit. I'm not saying you shouldn't (if that is your desire) Just making a point.
There is no such thing as bad beer. There is only good beer and better beer.
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

Hashie wrote:Velophile, they say you shouldn't boil your kit as it reduces the hop aromas and flavours that are already present in the kit. I'm not saying you shouldn't (if that is your desire) Just making a point.
velophile wrote:Usually stir in the kit can after the boil.
:wink:
w00t!
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Ash
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Post by Ash »

I've been quietly observing this thread, along with it's disagreements :lol:

I'll be steeping my first grain (250gm of 145ebc crystal) in a couple of hours when I get home so thank's for all the advice everyone & thanks Pale Ale for asking the question & saving me the effort :wink:
ryan
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Post by ryan »

Always a pleasure. :)
Hashie
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Post by Hashie »

rwh wrote:
Hashie wrote:Velophile, they say you shouldn't boil your kit as it reduces the hop aromas and flavours that are already present in the kit. I'm not saying you shouldn't (if that is your desire) Just making a point.
velophile wrote:Usually stir in the kit can after the boil.
:wink:
Gotta find those reading glasses, I'm sure it said "with the boil" the first time I read it. :oops:
There is no such thing as bad beer. There is only good beer and better beer.
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