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If anyone out there has a mash tun they are trying to get rid of, let me know...

Well, this topic can now be considered irrelevant as I bit the bullet & went to 'that big hardware store' & bought a 25L Willow Esky last night for $24...BARGAIN....it wont do double batches but it sure as hell will do for partials & some AG when I get to that stage...IM STOKED!!...my brewery is coming along quite nicely!!!!!
I have a mate who works for a lucrative plumbing company here in Canberra & he has got me a butterfly tap ball valve & all the bits & pieces to go with it to make the drain for my kettle & for the mash tun so Im so stoked...the only this is I am working all day today & have my girls all day tomorrow so Im trying to find some spare time to knock it all together! I've also decided not to go with the braid but make a copper manifold from supplies from my plumbing friend....I love it when a plan comes together!!

Sounds good Jack. Keep us up to date with how it all goes.

Hashie wrote:Sounds good Jack. Keep us up to date with how it all goes.

Yeah for sure buddy, I'll be posting all the progress pics on my blog spot...it will be a step by step account of the creation of the kettle & mash tun!

Has anyone tried & tested both stainless braid & copper manifolds and if so what are the efficiency rates related to both?

Well my el-crappo-ugly-as-sin manifold gave me ~75% Very happy!

The main effect a manifold will have on efficency is channeling during the sparge... but if you batch sparge and let it slowly dribble out of the tun you should be right...

The only thing that would worry me about using that braid is it becomming clogged...

But there is only one way to find out! TRY IT!

MHD wrote:Well my el-crappo-ugly-as-sin manifold gave me ~75% Very happy!

The main effect a manifold will have on efficency is channeling during the sparge... but if you batch sparge and let it slowly dribble out of the tun you should be right...

The only thing that would worry me about using that braid is it becomming clogged...

But there is only one way to find out! TRY IT!

I was thinking that myself which I why I have decided to go with the copper manifold instead, mainly cos I can get the copper pipe for nix...in regard to chanelling....I thought this was bad?....isnt there meant to be space around the manifold to prevent chanelling from occurring?

yes it is bad... channeling reduces efficency

but that, I believe (besides keeping the crud out of your wort) is the only real effect of the manifold on efficency

btw: did you end up going to Gazza's on the weeknd for the AG demo...

You've got to see it done... makes so much more sense then...

MHD wrote:yes it is bad... channeling reduces efficency

but that, I believe (besides keeping the crud out of your wort) is the only real effect of the manifold on efficency

Reading up on the creation of the tun, they explain to have at least an inch between the walls of the tun & the manifold which I guess reduces said chanelling...they diagrams I have make sense somewhat so there must be a reason for having that gap!
On the Gazza front, no I didnt get out there much to my dismay but I am hoping I can get over to stagga's place real soon to take a gander at what he has!

Chatting to Kurtz is sounds like a lot of the channeling issues can be ignored if you do it all slow enough...

Mine is very badly designed but it worked great on the weekend...

My Hops calculations.... not so great

MHD wrote:Chatting to Kurtz is sounds like a lot of the channeling issues can be ignored if you do it all slow enough...

Mine is very badly designed but it worked great on the weekend...

My Hops calculations.... not so great

So is it better to put the grain in, put the water in & leave it mash for an hour or put in grain, water & let it out really slow?

hehe... you REALLY have to go to an AG demo...



*Put water in at the strike temperature (I used 77 degrees) at 2x the volume of the grain
*Pour grain on top and let it sit for a few minutes after which gently start mixing through (this is called doughing in)
*Check temperature to see if you hit your target (keeping in mind there will be pockets of hot and cold) add hot or cold water to get it right
*Put lid on and wait!
*After mash time is up drain a little and put it back on top, repeat until wort runs clear
*drain some into the kettle, do not let the mash become to dry
*I Bulk sparge, I put my sparge water at about 75 on top leave for a few mins and then drain a bit... repeat until I have the right volume...

MHD wrote:hehe... you REALLY have to go to an AG demo...



*Put water in at the strike temperature (I used 77 degrees) at 2x the volume of the grain
*Pour grain on top and let it sit for a few minutes after which gently start mixing through (this is called doughing in)
*Check temperature to see if you hit your target (keeping in mind there will be pockets of hot and cold) add hot or cold water to get it right
*Put lid on and wait!
*After mash time is up drain a little and put it back on top, repeat until wort runs clear
*drain some into the kettle, do not let the mash become to dry
*I Bulk sparge, I put my sparge water at about 75 on top leave for a few mins and then drain a bit... repeat until I have the right volume...

Awesom, yeah Im thinking I need to get along to one very soon...hopefully they will have one before I get too ahead of myself & f**k everything up!!
Planning on doing my JSAA very soon so Im hoping this will come in time before I start...still gotta create the kettle & mash tun yet....damn work, always getting in the way of brewery progress!!

any pics of the plumbing jack?

Hey Beerdrinker32

In this thread are some pics of an esky tun & one way to do a braid filter.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... =10900&hl=

Cheers
V