homebrewandbeer.com

Hi All,

This is the following inventory of goodies I have:

Extract Kits:
Coopers Dark Ale
Coopers Canadian Blonde
Coopers Australian Pale Ale
Cooper Mexican Cerveza
Breweiser Wheat Beer
Cascade Golden Harvest Lager

Sugar:
Liquid Brewing Sugar
Coopers Brew Enhancer 1 and 2 (couple of each)
Dextrose

Yeast:
SAFlager S-23 x 2
SAFlager W34/70 x 2

Would appreciate some advice on:
Which kit to brew with which yeast and which sugar?
Which kit to brew at this time of year (in Melb)?
Do any of the kits above have decent yeast which does not need to be substituted?
Is there anything else I need to get?

At this stage I just want to get a few brews under my belt before I worry about racking and adding extra hops etc.

Have been trying to read a lot of threads, but I am too far behind...

No idea about the other stuff, but now's the perfect time in Melbourne to use lager yeast, so get the Saflager yeasts (both kinds) ticking over as soon as possible.

Lets see,

Golden Harvest Lager with Dextrose and W34/70
Dark Ale with BE2 Need an Ale yeast to get the best
Pale Ale with BE1 Need an Ale yeast
Cerveza with BE2 with S23
Canadian Blonde with Brewing Sugar and S23
Wheat beer with whatever cause I don't like wheat beers.

I'd brew the Golden Harvest, the Cerveza and the Blonde now, because they are lager styles and meant to be brewed at lower temps.

For the golden harvest, I would recommend doing away with the dextrose and get a kilo of LDME and then a Hallertau hop teabag and use it.

With the Creveza I would dry hops with 20gms of Cascade hops.

With both of the Ales I would get some Safale and dry hop the Dark with 20gm of Willamette hops and dry hop the pale ale with 20gm of Cascade. Further, I'd use 1kg of DDME with the Dark Ale in place of BE2 and I'd use 1kg of LDME with the Pale. I'd keep the BE2 for soem lagers and the BE1 for blondes etc.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Wassa, you're a gun!

Thats what I was after, thanks heaps.

Guys, I put on the Cascade Golden Harvest using 750g Dextrose and 250g Malt. I used W34/70 yeast.

It bubbled quite quickly for 4 days and now has completely stopped. It is always around 18-20 in my flat. The SG is 1.030 at the moment and is quite cloudy.

Is this normal for it to stop bubbling even though I assume it has not finished fermenting? Or is something wrong?

Wilbur,

1030 is way to high.

I would assume that you have developed a leak in your seal and that is why it has stopped bubbling, or that fermentation has stalled.

Firstly grab your fermenter and hold it close to your chest and give it a few quioet ratation on it base. I don't mean hard spins but slow turns to slowly stir up the yeast and let it re-activate. Alternaively you could rack to a second fermenter and this will kick the yeast back to life.

You need to keep on taking SG readings and when it gets down around 1012 to 1010 for 3 consecutive days then bottle. By this I mean the same SG reading for 3 days.

Hope this helps,

Wassa

The yeast you used likes temp between 9C and 15C http://www.fermentis.com/FO/EN/pdf/SaflagerW-34-70.pdf

could this pose a problem?

That could be a problem, but the sg reading of 1030 says fermentation ain't finsihed to my way of thinking!!!!

Hi Matt. My lager that I just bottled on Saturday bubbled for about that and dropped only 20 points. It dropped another 20 in the five days afterwards with no bubbles. It was with S23.

Jub

Thanks guys,

Wassa's comments about a leak in the seal got me thinking... I remembered when I attached the airlock to start with that it seemed fairly loose.

I just went and pushed it down a centimetre until it seemed tighter. Would you believe it is bubbling again... Something so simple.

I think I will replace the o-ring after this brew is finished.

Hey guys new to the forums and was wondering if any of you know of a doozie stout recipe as i would really love to brew one but as yet have stuck to ales and lagers. Is there any real difference, any hints and tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

morgs wrote:The yeast you used likes temp between 9C and 15C http://www.fermentis.com/FO/EN/pdf/SaflagerW-34-70.pdf

could this pose a problem?

Yeah, I cant really help the temperature. It is winter in Melbourne and still without a heater, my flat stays at least 18 degrees. My flat is on the 2nd level of my apartment builing. I guess heat from downstairs makes my flat warmer? Reckon I should wrap a wet towel around it to cool it down? I dont have the set up to keep it in a fridge.

Ok. This is what I reckon. Anyone feel free to correct me.

Just had a look at a coopers Bav Lager.

Says 21 to whatever, but cooler is better. The sticky for coopers yeasts says it's got s-189. Look up fermentis s-189. Same speil for all lager yeasts. Most people don't brew their Bav Lag in a fridge and it works, so I recon the temp shouldn't be a drama. might have some esters but not as bad as a kit yeast.

Thats my 10 cents from my limited understanding.

Jub

Eric The Red wrote:Hey guys new to the forums and was wondering if any of you know of a doozie stout recipe as i would really love to brew one but as yet have stuck to ales and lagers. Is there any real difference, any hints and tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

well eric i dont drink alot of stout but i heard a top recipe for it is

muntons export stout
brewcraft #74 irish stout converter
dark dry malt 500g
liquorice extract 10ml
muntons gold yeast
final volume 15l
fg 1019

supposed to be alot like guiness

hey matt,

has the airlock got a sharp casting edge on it? Sometimes they don't seal properly. Scrape the sharp edge with scissor blade or a file to make smooth.
john

morgs wrote:hey matt,

has the airlock got a sharp casting edge on it? Sometimes they don't seal properly. Scrape the sharp edge with scissor blade or a file to make smooth.
john

It certainly has, but Im one step ahead of you. After the airlock stopped again last night. I did exactly that! Its working again.