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Hi all, I'm pretty new to HB and am still trying to get my temps right. I'm doing a wheat beet with the Brewcraft #66 conversion kit. I'm using a submerged heater and the adjustments are somewhat difficult. Next brew I do I WILL make sure I fill the fermenter before hand and test the thing out a bit more. I tried using a large pot to test it before hand it seemed to work well but now it's brewing temps are sitting around 18, not 20. My question is can you move a fermenter during fermentation or is it bad for the brew? I was looking to move it to a warmer spot in my house.

Yeah, you can move it all you like, just try to avoid moving it around too much just before you bottle as you will resuspend the trub resulting in extra sediment in your bottles. As for 18°C, that's just peachy. I wouldn't worry about it. The optimal range is 18°-20°C, so yeah, what's the problem?

I had the same problem. I reckon that the crappy little temperature sticker on the outside wasn't that accurate though. The room it was in was pretty cold so I figure the ambient temperature in the room can effect the sticker temp. I have only done five brews now all with the same temp and they have all turned out fine.

I moved mine a few times until i constructed the "Beer Box" and i dont need to any more. In winter the 75 Watt globe keeps it just right and in summer i can turn it off.

I still have to move mine when bottling time comes. Wait until the SG is the same for two days then move it and leave it for another day before bottling. Hasn't failed yet.

Swifty wrote:I figure the ambient temperature in the room can effect the sticker temp.

Yep. Unless you wrap the fermenter in a blanket or something.

Rabby wrote: ... In winter the 75 Watt globe keeps it just right and in summer i can turn it off.

In summer if things get warmer than you want you can try a couple of freezer bricks.

Cheers,
Greg

No worries guys, thanks. I think I'll invest in a nice digi thermo and submerge it in the fermenter for a more accurate reading, I also think the sticker thermos are not the most reliable.

As for the temp I was reading the kit and it said optimal was 20-27 from memory, I thought 18 might be a bit low. I saw a lot of action from the airlock for the first 2-3 days and now nothing so I'm guessing it's getting there, the crust has dropped from the top although there is still a bit of froth and a few floaties. Took a quick reading and around 1020 so it's getting there. Only started it Sunday arvo

18 is perfect..

High temps arent good.. You get bad cidery flavours.. Sure, it ferments quicker, but it will taste crap.
I would say 22-23 degrees is about the max you want..

Ace! So any idea on the fermentation time then? My last brew was a Bavarian larger and that took around 2 weeks at a lower temp, would you think around 10 days or so? I'll just have to use the hydromter hey!

Yes, hydometer..

But mine, brewed at or around 18, usually take 10-12 days...

Yep, figured that would be about right. Thanks again.

I don't do this if i can help it,as it sometimes stops fermentation,or bubbling through the airlock.I have found the only way of getting it going again ,is to swirl the fermenter a few times,which is a bit weird when the thing has just been moved.But that's what i have experienced with the thing.

Rabby wrote:I moved mine a few times until i constructed the "Beer Box" and i dont need to any more. In winter the 75 Watt globe keeps it just right and in summer i can turn it off.

What did you use to make the "Beer Box", Rabby?

I move mine a couple of times

About 1 week in to rack to secondary

And again when I bulk prime / bottle

So long as you don't splash it'll be ok

You got more chance of oxidisation racking and bottling

Cheers

Also I now use glad wrap instead of the lid - so i don't have to worry about the water in the airlock getting sucked back through.