How to mod fridge for gas line

rwh · Post by **rwh** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 10:45 am

Hi all,

I'm trying to work out how to mod my nice new fridge so that I don't have the gas line going in through the door (which stops it sealing properly). I'd like to be able to remove the system from the fridge so it can be taken to the occasional big function (where the kegs will be cooled with ice).

Obviously I'm going to have to drill some kind of hole(s) in my fridge, and would just like some advice on a couple of issues:

1. Where should I drill the hole? I'm guessing that the back is no-go because that's where the radiator coils would be located. So, I'm thinking the side, close to the back. That going to be OK?</li>
2. I have two kegs in the fridge, and am going to put a t-piece into the gas line. The t-piece obviously won't fit through any hole that I drill in the fridge, so should I:
a) have some kind of joiner in the gas line so that I can pass a single tube through a single hole, and join it to another hose with the t-piece and gas fittings? Does a joiner of this type exist?
or
b) have the t-piece on the outside of the fridge, and pass the two separate hoses through two holes?

Aussie Claret · Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 11:08 am

rwh,
Try to minimise the amount of holes being drilled, look for the drain plug and if you can feed the gas line through that (no drilling easy fix and doesn't spoilt the fridge).

Not sure on the type of fridge you've got but if it has an ice box inside the fridge that is where the fridge is cooled from so you shouldn't have any cooling lines in the back or sides of the fridge.

If you have a fridge that has internal cooling elements and are going to drill be very careful and drill a small pilot hole first through the plastic skin take a look to see if you are going to hit any pipes before drilling all the way through. Make sure you don't hit any cooling tubes. (otherwise bye bye fridge).

Regarding the T piece, why don't you look at getting a two tap gas manifold which will split the gas line into two outlets, with taps on or closing valves you could then have two beers gased at different carbonation levels. You could have the gas manifold located inside the fridge and if you use john Guest fittings they are easy to disconnect for when you are travelling.
2a. Yes they exist you could actually put a back flow vavle there to ensure you don't get any beer in your gas line or regulator.
2.b Go the gas manifold route it would be alot more practical.

Craftbrewer have all the bits and pieces you should need.
AC

gregb · Post by **gregb** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 11:09 am

Aussie Claret wrote:rwh,
Try to minimise the amount of holes being drilled, look for the drain plug and if you can feed the gas line through that (no drilling easy fix and doesn't spoilt the fridge).

Brilliant AC. (Greg slaps forehead and has an attack of bleeding obvious)

Cheers,
Greg

rwh · Post by **rwh** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 12:14 pm

Great idea on the drain hole.

Not sure if mine has one, but I'll have a look. This looks like it could be what I'm after: Equal Straight connector - OD 5/16 (8mm). And this is the John Guest page.

As for the John Guest fittings, do those connect/disconnect like garden hose fittings or something?

geoffclifton · Post by **geoffclifton** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 2:21 pm

If the fridge doesn't have an obvious radiator on the back then DO NOT DRILL as the entire outer skin of the fridge may be part of the condensor (radiator).

If it has a radiator on the back then you can see where or not the pipes are and just pick a clear spot.

Cheers, Geoff.

rwh · Post by **rwh** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 2:37 pm

The back does not have a visible radiator; the back panel of the fridge gets warm when the fridge is cooling. Does this mean that I should not drill the sides either? Or should I perhaps leave the door open for a while and see which parts get warm, and deduce that that's where the radiator is?

OldBugman · Post by **OldBugman** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 3:13 pm

radiators are for cars.

Condensers

rwh · Post by **rwh** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 4:56 pm

OK, I might try this configuration then:

That way I can remove the inner and outer parts of the system and reconnect them separate from the central piece of tube which goes through the drain.

Shaun · Post by **Shaun** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 6:02 pm

Have a read of this it is how I put my system together with photos.

Brewaholic · Post by **Brewaholic** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 8:40 pm

Im assuming the gas bottle wont fit in the fridge

if not you can buy a small one for 100 bucks and decant from your big one makes it real easy for traveling and will still dispense around 70-80 litres at 10 psi

rwh · Post by **rwh** » Wednesday Jan 24, 2007 11:35 pm

Really? How big are those? Where do I get one? They sound good, better than the soda stream injector that I bought for $50! And no, the two kegs really only just fit in. See this thread, towards the bottom.

By the way, my fridge has no drain. So I'm going to have to drill somewhere...

SpillsMostOfIt · Post by **SpillsMostOfIt** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 7:00 am

rwh wrote:By the way, my fridge has no drain. So I'm going to have to drill somewhere...

I've been known to relentlessly modify a few expensive things in my time.

I wonder if there is a way to do this that doesn't invalidate your warranty (or just bugger the fridge).

If you allow the piping/tubing to enter/leave the fridge via the door and use some closed cell foam to make a (possibly wedge-shaped) seal you have a slightly more ugly setup but can return the fridge to its original splendor. I saw 8mm camping mats at Bunnings yesterday for $5 each. There would be enough foam there, along with some contact cement to kludge up seals for several fridges. Some Gaffer tape would hold the door closed while the foam is in place.

Aussie Claret · Post by **Aussie Claret** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 9:02 am

rwh wrote: As for the John Guest fittings, do those connect/disconnect like garden hose fittings or something?

They simply push into the fitting, no screwing, no plumbing tape etc, easy as. You need a special tool or smallish (about 6mm) spanner to push the collar back on the fitting to allow the tubing to release. Best little invention I've seen.

AC

scblack · Post by **scblack** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 9:17 am

geoffclifton wrote:If the fridge doesn't have an obvious radiator on the back then DO NOT DRILL as the entire outer skin of the fridge may be part of the condensor (radiator).

If it has a radiator on the back then you can see where or not the pipes are and just pick a clear spot.

Cheers, Geoff.

A very interesting point - my brew fridge is clearly one of these, as both sides of the fridge heat up in use. It says in the notes somewhere to leave space on the sides.

Hmmm, if I am to keg in future, its a matter to deal with.

rwh · Post by **rwh** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 9:55 am

How about through the floor!?

Seriously though, it should be possible to run the gas line through where the compressor compartment ("step") is as all of the machinery and lines are visible there. Just be damned careful to unplug the thing and try really hard not to hit any wires or refrigerant lines.

What do the refrigeration guys reckon?

OldBugman · Post by **OldBugman** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 10:13 am

I put my line thru the side, when I was showing off some pics of my setup to the guys at work. Everyone laughed and said I'm the only guy who could drill a hole in a fridge and not hit something(long running joke about me being lucky)

Try to only drill the metal outter skin of the fridge, dont drill thru.

The way I did it was as follows

-Run fridge, try to feel for warmth to see if you can find a spot which wont have pipes right behind it
-using a tiny drill bit try to just peirce the sheet metal
-Once you have a hole in the metal poke the drill bit thru the hole without running the drill to force it thru the insulation and feel for any pipe work.
-use bigger drill to increase the size of the hole on outside
-scoop out/squash destroy the insulation with a screw driver or such.
-look in hole.
-Drill thru to inside.

Anzac Cookies · Post by **Anzac Cookies** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 10:43 am

I just drilled straight through the rear of the fridge, trace out the lines etc. and drill throught the plastic skin and stop before drilling insulation, grab a screwdriver and stick it in through the hole you drilled and feel around, if it feels like there is nothing but insulation then proceed to drill through the outer skin. Drill only the size hole you need, not too big, a nice snug fit is ideal.

Haggy · Post by **Haggy** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 6:09 pm

My method..

I drillled where the shelves lined up on the sides of the fridge. My theory was that where the shelves are there wouldnt be any gas lines, I was right!

Drilled a pilot hole initially, then used a BBQ Skewer to poke through the foam and feel for a gas line...

Just my methods..

Cheers
Haggy

Shaun · Post by **Shaun** » Thursday Jan 25, 2007 8:44 pm

As for the John Guest fittings, do those connect/disconnect like garden hose fittings or something?

Aussie Claret wrote: They simply push into the fitting, no screwing, no plumbing tape etc, easy as. You need a special tool or smallish (about 6mm) spanner to push the collar back on the fitting to allow the tubing to release. Best little invention I've seen.

AC

You do not need the special tool, drill a hole in a flat piece of wood then file it out so it has a "u" in it at one end. This will do the same job as the tool to release the connector.