Aeration
Aeration
Hi All
I was wondering if anyone could tell me a little bit about Aeration.
I understand that you should Aerate before pitching your yeast but i dont really understand:
1. Why this needs to be done
2. What are common methods of Aerating?
Cheers!
Jus
I was wondering if anyone could tell me a little bit about Aeration.
I understand that you should Aerate before pitching your yeast but i dont really understand:
1. Why this needs to be done
2. What are common methods of Aerating?
Cheers!
Jus
Aeration must be done to help the yeast to grow in numbers. The most common method of aeration is simple pouring of the wort (or water to be mixed with the kit and kilo) into the fermentor.
Have a read of Palmers section on yeast:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6.html
Have a read of Palmers section on yeast:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6.html
Remember, there is no need to aerate the wort if you dump a brew onto a yeast cake, as the yeast are already conditioned to working anaerobically.
For liquid yeasts you do need to aerate your cooled wort before pitching.
There seem to be arguments for and against on whether it's necessary for dried yeast. Any expert brewers wish to comment on this?
For liquid yeasts you do need to aerate your cooled wort before pitching.
There seem to be arguments for and against on whether it's necessary for dried yeast. Any expert brewers wish to comment on this?
Jus, I am going to assume that you are just brewing kits at the moment? Let me know if this is incorrect.
Ok, you add your malt (kit and other sugars) to your fermenter with the boiled water, then add cold water to top it up to 23L or whatever volume you use. If you (like me at a similar stage) add the water to the fermenter via the good old garden hose, then you are already adding enough oxygen to the wort. That on top of the fact that dried yeast (like in kits) doesn't really need O2. It is still good practice to aerate though.
The main reason for aeration of the wort is to give the yeast the O2 it requires for its reproductive phase- where it ups its numbers to the levels it needs to ferment out the beer.
Once this phase is complete, it then no longer needs O2, and aerating the beer will impact negatively on the beer.
Ok, you add your malt (kit and other sugars) to your fermenter with the boiled water, then add cold water to top it up to 23L or whatever volume you use. If you (like me at a similar stage) add the water to the fermenter via the good old garden hose, then you are already adding enough oxygen to the wort. That on top of the fact that dried yeast (like in kits) doesn't really need O2. It is still good practice to aerate though.
The main reason for aeration of the wort is to give the yeast the O2 it requires for its reproductive phase- where it ups its numbers to the levels it needs to ferment out the beer.
Once this phase is complete, it then no longer needs O2, and aerating the beer will impact negatively on the beer.
A beer in the hand is worth two in George Bush...
"They say beer will make me dumb. It are go good with pizza"
Psychostick
"They say beer will make me dumb. It are go good with pizza"
Psychostick
- Trough Lolly
- Posts: 1647
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When I boiled using two stock pots, I used to grab a clean 1L jug and aerate the chilled wort by scooping up wort and splash pouring it back into the stock pot for a few minutes for each pot - then a splash pour through a strainer as Lethal suggests and you've got a fermenter with well aerated wort ready for yeast innoculation...
Cheers,
TL
Cheers,
TL


- Trough Lolly
- Posts: 1647
- Joined: Friday Feb 16, 2007 3:36 pm
- Location: Southern Canberra
- Contact:
- Trough Lolly
- Posts: 1647
- Joined: Friday Feb 16, 2007 3:36 pm
- Location: Southern Canberra
- Contact:
Yes, once, a couple of years ago, when I did an experimental "Fat Tire" clonebrew - I can't recall the exact flavour profile but I do remember that the beer tasted pretty good...ryan wrote:![]()
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Ever used Mt. Hood hops, Trough?
Mt. Hood (USA)
This cultivar was the result of a cross made in 1983 between a colchicines iinduced tetraploid female Hallertau Mittelfruh (USDA 21397) and a male hop (USDA 19058 M). In 1985, the number USDA 21455 was assigned for Mt. Hood. It is a high yielding, early to mid-season ripening hop with oil contents very similar (hence, also a similar aroma) to that of Hallertau Hersbrucker.
It is fairly resistant to Downy Mildew, hence suitable for growing in Oregon and Idaho, but it is also cultivated in Washington State. It is
sensitive to Wilt. The alpha acid ranges from 4.0-6.5%, with beta acid ranging from 3.6-5.9%. It is, in my opinion, very suitable for use in ales as well as lagers.


- Trough Lolly
- Posts: 1647
- Joined: Friday Feb 16, 2007 3:36 pm
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