homebrewandbeer.com

I have got one of the filter kit the ross sells, but have not used it yet. I want to filter straight from the fermenter, but what happens if it gets blocked up and needs some pressure to push it, do you apply some co2 pressure to the fermenter and how much would you use.

The filter is meant to be used with a pump. Not sure gravity would be enough? There is a fermentor built by some blokes on AHB which used CO2 to force transfer through a filter into a keg.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... l=transfer

Yep have seen the peristaltic pump on Craftbrewer. Was hopping that if I am only filtering one brew at a time that gravity might be enough, if most of the yeast has already dropped out. Looks like some people on AHB have done it. I will give it a go and see what happens.

Gravity works fine guys.

Have a read of this thread on AHB http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... opic=16985

Think the gravity part starts from end page 2 maybe page 3.

I'm having a few issues with it myself at the moment but once I iron those out I reckon its the way to go.

cliffo

But what`s the deal on filtering anyway? I only do ales, primary 7 day at 18*, dry hop and leave another 7 days at 18*, sometimes lower, then bottle. No 2ndry, no bulk prime- after 4 weeks they`re as clear as a bell. Sure, you`ll have a paper thin yeast deposit in the bottle, but that`s home brew for you.
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ryan wrote:But what`s the deal on filtering anyway? I only do ales, primary 7 day at 18*, dry hop and leave another 7 days at 18*, sometimes lower, then bottle. No 2ndry, no bulk prime- after 4 weeks they`re as clear as a bell. Sure, you`ll have a paper thin yeast deposit in the bottle, but that`s home brew for you.
Lap it up

I concur.

Effort:Result ratio makes it not worth it.

There I said it.

I have had plenty a cloudy beer that tasted great! I have had plenty a bright beer that tasted like cow dung

Don't judge a book by it's cover...

I agree, but some beers you just don’t want the yeast in suspension, I have a friend who thinks the yeast at the bottom of the bottle is the best part. If I was bottling I wouldn’t bother, but I want to filter the beer into kegs to help speed up conditioning and to stop the sediment at the bottom of the keg getting stirred up if I move them.

But by the time the keg is cold, the yeast will usually have dropped... in my experience anyway. Also doesn't too little yeast slow conditioning? I always thought there was a happy medium with conditioning where you wanted enough to clean the beer, but not too much to add off flavours etc.

o.k. Conditioning might not have not been the best word to use.

I am using a 1.0 micron filter and some yeast will get past, if the keg is chilled for lagers and not for ales then I assume if there is enough yeast to carb a bottle conditioned beer, that I could condition in the keg as well without adding any more fermentable. But i want to do this so that I can chill force carb and drink same day, and if I want to do a party keg or put a keg in the backyard for BQQ I don’t have to worry about the sediment get stirred up.

Having said that i haven't even used it yet, and don't know if i will use it on every beer that i do.