Boonies LCPA recipe

[Trough Lolly]

[ If you do that regularly, then perhaps you're better off just buying unhopped malt extract rather than paying extra for a kit and then altering the hop profile...

Cheers,
TL

That is a thought I have had recently.

Can I just buy 1.7kg approx. of malt extract and use that to create my brews?

To that I would add 1-1.5kgs malts/sugars and hops.

I always thought there was more to a kit, but I guess it is generally just malted barley and hops.

G'day scblack,
Absolutely! As pixelboy and Boonie noted, extract brewing is a perfectly acceptable way to brew - whether you use a kit or equivalent quantity of unhopped malt extract and add your own hops. And yes, the kit simply comprises a concentrated malt extract with hops added during the original boil and a sachet of yeast that makes great yeast nutrient in the last 10 minutes of the boil!

The main difference between a kit concentrate and buying the extract and adding your own hops is that you don't have to boil a kit but you do need to boil the extract with some water in order to key the hops into the resultant wort. Hop oils and resins require isomerisation to provide the desirable bitterness, flavour and aroma profiles that we need in the beer to balance the sweetness of the malt - and the isomerisation is thermally induced, ie, done by boiling.

The kit also has an set of instructions that are normally tossed in the bin since most are aimed at dump and stir in the table sugar brewers and IMHO are pretty misleading, eg, ferment at 26C...yada yada.

Cheers,
TL

[scblack]

Cheers Trough Lolly, I am going to be doing it.

[Trough Lolly]

Happy to help
There's no turning back now! Next thing you'll be substituting extract for steeped grains to get those malty grainy flavour notes, then a mini mash, then all grain and the obsession is complete! Welcome to the club - we've got jackets!
Cheers,
TL
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[Pale_Ale]

scblack you can download QBrew for free which is quite handy in calculating your hop balance.

I've just done a 'Mildish' Ale which turned out very nicely.

2Kg LDME**
10g Goldings @ 60 minutes
15g Goldings @ 12 minutes
200g Crystal steeped for 30 minutes
Nottingham Ale yeast
Final Volume 22L

It's a cheap and easy brew!

**(or 1.5kg Liquid + 500g LDME, bearing in mind this will not contribute as much malt by weight)

[scblack]

scblack you can download QBrew for free which is quite handy in calculating your hop balance.

Already got it!

[damian44]

Could anyone explain this recipe to me as im a noob?

1 tin Morgans Stockmans Draught
1.5 kg of Morgans Extra Pale Malt Extract (Liquid)
15g of Cascade pellets - 15min
10g Cluster pellets - 15 min
US56 Yeast.
12g of Chinook Pellets (dry hopped at rack).


1. Do i need to add suger as well?

2. 15 min. Does that mean i boil the concentrate, sugar, malt and pallets in 2 litres of water for 15 min?

3. Whats dry hopped at rack mean?

4. Country Brewer dont seem to have Chinook Pellets or Morgans Stockmans Draught or US56 Yeast. Do they have a substute? http://www.countrybrewer.com.au/index.htm

Thanks a ton Damian.

[timmy]

Hey Damo,

1. No!!!! The ingredients listed will give you enough fermentables.
2. That's about right (except for the sugar)
3. If you rack (move your beer into another fermenter after a week or so), you can add more hops to improve aroma. This is called dry hopping.
4. You could probably sub the Coopers Traditional Draught (guessing here), and you could use some Brew Cellar American Ale yeast (it's the same stuff anyway). Can't help you on the chinook substitute though... Perhaps try craftbrewer.com.au or grainandgrape.com.au.

Cheers,
Tim

[damian44]

Thanks Tim. I dont have another fermenter so ill skip DRY RACK. What sort of beers should i be brewing in coming months eg ales lagers stout to work with the tempretures?

[timmy]

Ales & stouts from here on in unless you have a converted fridge or somewhere that's a pretty constant 10deg.

You can always chuck in the extra hops into your primary fermenter after about 5 days. Just leave it for another week or so after that.

btw - with that one try and keep the temp at about 24-25 to give you the extra fruity flavours of the yeast.

[damian44]

Im gonna do a Coopers pale ale ive got a light booster with 250g malt and 250g maltodextrin and cluster 12g could i add something else?

Cheers Damian

[Boonie]

Hey Damo,

1. No!!!! The ingredients listed will give you enough fermentables.
2. That's about right (except for the sugar)
3. If you rack (move your beer into another fermenter after a week or so), you can add more hops to improve aroma. This is called dry hopping.
4. You could probably sub the Coopers Traditional Draught (guessing here), and you could use some Brew Cellar American Ale yeast (it's the same stuff anyway). Can't help you on the chinook substitute though... Perhaps try craftbrewer.com.au or grainandgrape.com.au.

Cheers,
Tim

G'day guys,
Re answer No 2
I don't boil the can of Morgans, just the Extra Pale Malt Extract and hops.

Damo also the malt is the "sugars" replacement/superior.

You can certainly dry hop and it improves it out of sight IMO, I'd recommend that.

Some people have tried Perle instead of chinook with mixed results.

For a CPA, use the search engine as there are a few recipes for that one. I have done one just the other day, but I will wait until it is tasted before recommending it.

FYI, this is what I did
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6731&highlight=award+winning+recipes&sid=a7c07b9a763b3f05fe09d524870a5bfb

Cheers

Boonie[/b]

[Kevnlis]

As a rule I try to match the amount of fermentables in the boil to the amount in the finished batch. As follows:

24L batch of beer with 3 kilos of malt, if I am doing an 8L boil then I will add 1 kilo of malt to the boil. This makes it easier to calculate IBUs and adapt recipes etc because the desntiy of your mini boil is the same as the final product. It also makes it easier to convert AG recipes to extract recipes because you do not need to change the hop schedule at all!

[Boonie]

G'day Ladies and Gents,

My LCPA's have all been bitter and not as Fruity when brewed in winter.

I tried the heat method (was cooked very hot due to heat belt ) but still bitter.

My thoughts are that this beer should be brewed at 22-26 for best results.

Reason being, I looked at when I did my best one it was in October 06.
My brewing notes stated "20 Degrees Fish Heater - gone up to 26 thanks to weather" and this was my best LCPA ever. It was also done with US56 instead of US05, apparently has not changed.

I did another not long back, improved slightly but still a little bitter......I have ensured that I have stuck to exact recipe to the letter, but still very different.

Has Morgans increased the IBU's?? Is the temp the prob? Is Boonie going insane? Should the boil size increase bitterness?


Cheers

Boonie

[Kevnlis]

Thats lucky for me then cuz mine isn't getting below 22C or above 25C ATM. Been a bit warm up this way!

[brew.exe]

As a rule I try to match the amount of fermentables in the boil to the amount in the finished batch. As follows:

24L batch of beer with 3 kilos of malt, if I am doing an 8L boil then I will add 1 kilo of malt to the boil. This makes it easier to calculate IBUs and adapt recipes etc because the desntiy of your mini boil is the same as the final product. It also makes it easier to convert AG recipes to extract recipes because you do not need to change the hop schedule at all!

I agree with you. I've had some problems with hop utilization and have found that it helps get the ibu's and hop flavour to the right amounts in the final volume.

[rwh]

One other source of variation is the freshness of your hops. Over time as the hop oils oxidise, they become less "powerful". I've heard that some breweries even use completely oxidised hops for their preservative properties without adding to the bitterness.

[Danzar]

Thanks Tim. I dont have another fermenter so ill skip DRY RACK. What sort of beers should i be brewing in coming months eg ales lagers stout to work with the tempretures?

Damian - you don't have to rack to be able to dry hop. Just throw the Chinook pellets into your brew 3-4 days after fermentation starts.

The Chinooks integral to the recipe so don't skip them.

[Kevnlis]

If I am not racking I drop the pellets down the hole in the airlock, but make sure you drop them one at a time or they can get stuck

[damian44]

Thanks for the posts guys, everytime i reread them i learn something new. Cheers.

Thanks Damian

[collapoo]

thankyou boonie thankyou, i'm drinking it now 6 weeks in the bottle and its gold