Recommended thermometer?

[Fifey]

I am considering making the jump to BIAB as I'm finding extract and K&B brewing has become a little restrictive. Before I grab any gear I thought I'd ask you chaps about a good thermometer for mashing.

[rotten]

I use your standard digital type, cost around $20-$30 depending on where you go. Most hardware or multi-purpose stores should have them. I'd bet woolies and coles do too.
Cheers

[matr]

I use one of these to control the element and monitor mash temp.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Aquarium-/220733709882?pt=AU_Pet_Supplies&hash=item3364c11e3a

I also splashed out on one of these..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Cooking-Food-Probe-Meat-Thermometer-Kitchen-BBQ-/250522685686?pt=AU_Utensils&hash=item3a5450d0f6

I haven't tested either against a calibrated thermometer so may be out a bit.

Cheers, Mat.

[billybushcook]

You may not have seen this link I posted elsewhere, it is a dual probe digital thermometer with meter long cables so you don't have to keep opening up the mash tun, you also don't have to stick your hand into a hot HLT to check temp & the big bonus is that you can monitor both at the same time.
Mine is a different model but still the same type of thing...best bit of kit I've ever bought.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-K-J-Type ... 3a625f585c

Cheers, Mick.

[Fifey]

Cheers guys.

[Tipsy]

I use one of these to control the element and monitor mash temp.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Aquarium-/220733709882?pt=AU_Pet_Supplies&hash=item3364c11e3a

Got the same as Matr but a little cheaper

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 153wt_1139

[shammo]

just wondering if most people are hooking up there own temp controllers or getting someone to do it, are they hard to do??

[jords]

Mate I had a go today and still haven't gotten it fully figured out. If anyone has a fairly short explaination on how to wire the ones matr recommended I would appreciate it. Digital temperature controller thermostat aquarium, from ebay.

From what I understand, where I am going wrong is that the controller needs a separate power supply (cord) to the one the fridge/freezer needs.

I thought the controller would sponge off the power the fridge requires to operate but it appears this is not the case.

Also, I have checked the Probe meat thermometers from ebay against 3 different ones I picked up from a local lab. They haven't been calibrated in a while but are all good quality thermometers. I found 3 of the probe thermometers from ebay to be within within 2C of each other and about 1C off the average of the lab thermometers.

As a roughy, I would say the probe meat thermometers are accurate to +- 1C, which is plenty for me as I only plan on using them to monitor column temps in my still.

[matr]

Heaps of diagrams on AHB. Maybe have a look there. There's also a couple of resident sparkies that can help you out.

I wired my own wasn't too hard but would pay to get someone to check it out if you are unsure. Otherwise PM me and I'll see if I can help you out.

Cheers, Mat

[billybushcook]

Exactly the same set up as a temp mate,
Wiring is easy, just make sure every thing is insulated from each other & surrounding cover. (I used a Tupperware container)

Essientially all it is, is that you are bringing a power source into the unit to make it operate the two switches (heat & cold)
the power does not go in the unit & come out at these switches.
You set it up so you have a constant connection to both out let leads (I have mine with female 3 pin plugs on them) of both Neutral (blue or black) & earth (green & yellow) then run the Active (brown or red) in one side of the switch & out the other to your out let lead with the Neutral & Earth as normal.

So the tempmate is only interupting the supply to the Active on each outlet lead. (which you plug your heater or cooler into).

It is basically the same thing as doing it with DC current except there is an Earth as well, think of it as if the blue is negative & the brown is positive.

just make sure you get the Active & neutral the right way around when you put the female on the end of the lead, every female end Ivé ever bought has had it written on them.
This may be of help
http://www.accesscomms.com.au/reference/powerplug.htm

The supplies are best wired into a manifold block (or terminal block) for simplicity so you are only really teeíng off them as in the pic attached.



Hope this helps. mick.

[jords]

Aha, I think I understand now. I was trying to avoid having to buy any extra cords and so was looking for a solution that could run off the power cable of my chest freezer.

Time to do it properly I think.

Thanks for the advice matr and mick, hopefully this'll be enough info to get it working.

Will let you know if I have a win, and probably more quickly if I don't!

[matr]

Aha, I think I understand now. I was trying to avoid having to buy any extra cords and so was looking for a solution that could run off the power cable of my chest freezer.

You can do that too. I have done that with both of my chest freezers (both F & P). Heaps neater than putting in a box and plugging inline.

If you want I can send you through the details. I've got it all documented how I did it..

Cheers, Mat.

[jords]

Thanks matr, I would really appreciate it if you could do that

[matr]

Document can be found here. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=47052&hl=installing

If you have trouble downloading PM me your email address.

Cheers, Mat.