Simple things that make HB better

[Chris]

I didn't know about Sundays. It is the only decent place to get gear here, but it is quite pricey. Aside from that, you'll find pretty much everything you need. I was there yesterday incidently.

[Andy_Q]

I always use a Brita Water filter. I have a pair of jugs (ooh-err, I say matron!) and by filling in rotation it doesn't take long to fill a 5 gal bucket. Started to do this after a couple of batches of disinfectant flavoured beer. The problem is the phenol compounds in hops react with chlorine kindly put into the water by the water company, this produces tri-chloro-phenol or TCP as it is known - hence the bad taste.
Swithched to filtered and no more problems even when making massively hoppy IPAs

Cheers

AQ

[Kevnlis]

A certain amount of Chloride is desirable, but Chlorine is not. I use the same sort of filter but mine is made by waterpik. About 1/3 the price, but only gets 91% instead of 99%. Both can be found at Big-W if you want to compare and decide for yourself.

[bangers]

Am I on the right track?
I've followed all the advice given, boiled and cooled my water, made a yeast starter,prepared my wort as mentioned .Now the big question is this how I rack my beer do I syphon of my beer into another fermenter,then add my finnings leave for a day then bottle .

[Kevnlis]

Am I on the right track?
I've followed all the advice given, boiled and cooled my water, made a yeast starter,prepared my wort as mentioned .Now the big question is this how I rack my beer do I syphon of my beer into another fermenter,then add my finnings leave for a day then bottle .

I would leave it for 3 days at least. But yes everything else sounds right.

[Pom]

Chris
Im slowly following your plan to improve my HB. Brew 1 is almost ready for bottling, brew 2 is already planned and will be put down this week and I have introduce better yeast in the form of Saflager. With my thrid I want to step up to the plate a bit and have a crack with the introduction of some LDM/LME and some grains maybe in the form of some crystal and maybe also a bit of hops.
I have no preferance to what type of beer as I have a liking for most if not all beers. Could you put together a basic recipe for me and I'll have a go. Im going to Melb. this weekend and thought I would stop into grape and grain and pick up some goodies. If you could help that would be great.
Thanks POM

[Chris]

Ok. It really depends on what you like.

A very good kit recipe uses the Coopers real ale kit, LDM, crystal and some willamette hops. Firstly, I'd like to point out that I am very biased towards willamette- it is a fantastic hop.

Ok, so if you like amber ales this'll be a winner. It has a lot of flavour.

1 can Coopers real ale
1kg LDM (or a can of pale malt extract)
250g crystal/caramalt
14g willamette (boil for 20min)
10g willamette (steep in hot wort for 2min)
Irish moss tablets
safale s-04
water up to 20L

1) steep the crystal in 4L of water at a temp of 65*C for 20-30mins
2) strain the liquid into a big pot
3) add the contents of the Coopers can and the malt (either liquid or dry malt) to the pot, and add about 4L of water (more water is better than less)
4) bring the liquid to the boil
5) after about 40mins of vigourous boil, add the 14g of hop pellets- stir.
6) 10mins before the end of the boil, add 1/2 of a tablet of Irish moss- break it up in your fingers as you add it. Stir
7) 20mins after adding the hops, turn your stove off (take it off the element if using an electric stove)
add the 10g of steeping hops
strain the liquid into your fermenter and add water up to 20L
9) add yeast when the wort is at the appropriate pitching temperature.

That is a very basic procedure for kit/ME brewing. It'll give you good beer every time. If you want to make different beers, simply vary the ingredients as appropriate, but keep the procedure pretty much the same. As you get into brewing a bit more, you'll find ways to improve on the basics and find what works to suit you.

If you want a different recipe, just let me know, but this is one of my all-time favourite simple and tasty recipies.

[Pom]

Thanks alot for taking the time to post that for me chris.Its exacatly what I needed. I will gather the appropriate ingrediants over the next week or two. Im sure I will find a question or two for your by the time I get to putting it down. Thanks again POM

[Chris]

You should be able to get all that stuff from G&G. I really like the fact that you can get exact quantities of grain crushed on demand.

[Pom]

1 can Coopers real ale
1kg LDM (or a can of pale malt extract)
250g crystal/caramalt
14g willamette (boil for 20min)
10g willamette (steep in hot wort for 2min)
Irish moss tablets
safale s-04
water up to 20L

Chris went to grain and grape yesterday but they where shut before I got there so im ordering everything I cant get locally from them on line now. The crystal/caramalt can I order Bairds crystal pale? cant find any crystal/caramalt would it be called somthing different. Also the only irish moss tablets I can find are under finings is that what I need? I have also orders light malt extract liquid instead of pale is that ok? Also picked up a few cheap feremnters from Bunnings so Im going to give the racking a try soon as well.

[leiothrix]

I don't think that you need the irish moss for an extract brew.

The way I understand it is that it is for removing proteins and to encourage cold break to form when boiling wort made from mashed grains. The break material & proteins can cause chill haze, amongst other things. There is no break material in malt extract as the manufacturer has already removed it.

Adding it anyway wont cause any harm though - I just think that is unnecessary (and I've never had a problem - even with partials).

Rob.

[warra48]

I don't think that you need the irish moss for an extract brew.

The way I understand it is that it is for removing proteins and to encourage cold break to form when boiling wort made from mashed grains. The break material & proteins can cause chill haze, amongst other things. There is no break material in malt extract as the manufacturer has already removed it.

Adding it anyway wont cause any harm though - I just think that is unnecessary (and I've never had a problem - even with partials).

Rob.

I agree. IRish Moss is not needed for extract brews.
I use it, but only in the last 15 minutes of my AG boil.

[Chris]

I have always added Irish moss for any brew with a grain bill over 10%, and still think it is good brewing practice to do so with any brew with grain in it. Suit yourself though.

Bairds is fine. I'm surprised you can't find a crystal/caramalt or suchlike. Irish moss is a fining too, so you are on track.

[Pom]

Chris I put the brew down yesterday (6th) I manage to get to G&G a few weeks ago and got some JD Caramalt. Used everything else you suggested. Didn't put Irish moss tablets in it but will try them next time and compare. It all went well for my first Ale and first brew with grain in. Do you carb the brew at all at bottling? Other than that I will leave for a while once I bottle and let you know what I think. Thanks for the recipe.
Rob

[Chris]

Yep. Carb as normal. I assume you are using carb drops? If so, the standard 2 per longneck will put you in good stead.

And this brew (from memory) was at it's peak at around the 6-8 week mark. It was very drinkable from around the 4 week mark. You could start earlier, but I reckon the wait is worth it.

[Pom]

Thanks mate for all your help with this one will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again Rob

[GrahamB]

Bottling Tip:

When bottling your beer, do 6 bottles at a time, resting the cap on top of the bottle without sealing.

After filling the last of the six, you then seal the first, second ...etc

This delayed capping allows the CO2 to expel any oxygen in the top of the bottle, minimising oxidation issues.

Cheers!

[warra48]

Bottling Tip:

When bottling your beer, do 6 bottles at a time, resting the cap on top of the bottle without sealing.

After filling the last of the six, you then seal the first, second ...etc

This delayed capping allows the CO2 to expel any oxygen in the top of the bottle, minimising oxidation issues.

Cheers!

I fill bottles for the full batch, put a loose cap on each bottle as it's filled, and cap the lot once all are filled.
Works fine for me.
I think the extra time allows a little CO2 to come out of suspension giving a little cover. The yeast do not need oxygen to carbonate the beer, as they are into anearobic function by the time you bottle.

[rotten]

probably a stupid question guys but i always add carb and cap each bottle straight away, theory being to guard against contamination. Do you only add carb right before capping or do you add it after brew is in the bottle and let it settle? i have always used carb drops and they tend to froth a bit if you dont cap straight away.
Cheers.

[Bum]

Put your carb drops in first and they shouldn't froth up at all during bottling - they never used to for me anyway.

The thinking is that leaving the cap loose gives some time for some oxygen to be purged by C02. It isn't something that all homebrewers do and it certainly isn't essential - just one of those personal preference things. The idea makes sense to me but I'm yet to see any hard science to show it improves your beer. It is extremely unlikely that any brew ruining germs will get through a loose cap.