bottling with screw tops
bottling with screw tops
everyone always talks of using bench cappers to cap bottles but is it ok to just use screw on lids from old stubbies? I have just done a JS amber ale and put it into cleaned empty 375ml stubbies and just screwed the old caps back on. That was about 3-4 weeks ago and they have fully carbonated etc and taste great. Just wondering cause you never hear of anyone doing it? Thanks.
- nanna Gail
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Female brewer here and a non drinker I always resue the screw caps. As the carbobation starts it pressurises and seals the stubbies like a beaut. The only reason some a wee bit flat is due to the underpriming. All the beer I make is colour codes. Red caps, VB caps, Cascade caps.and so on. Helps me know which brew is which. Only a woman would thnk like this lol
enjoy life
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- Administrator
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I've heard of this being done a few time, most recently by my wife's cousin.
He doesn't seem to have any problems (except that he overtightened a couple of bottles and stripped the thread on the cap).
One thing he is wary of is putting the caps from a particular style of bottle back on that bottle, to avoid problems caused by any slight variance in the thread (i.e. Cooper's caps on Cooper's bottles, CUB on CUB, Tooheys on Tooheys, etc).
The bottom line, as has been said: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Cheers,
Oliver
He doesn't seem to have any problems (except that he overtightened a couple of bottles and stripped the thread on the cap).
One thing he is wary of is putting the caps from a particular style of bottle back on that bottle, to avoid problems caused by any slight variance in the thread (i.e. Cooper's caps on Cooper's bottles, CUB on CUB, Tooheys on Tooheys, etc).
The bottom line, as has been said: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Cheers,
Oliver
I assume/hope that these re-used caps are being cleaned and sanitised before being re-used?
I re-cap my bottles before empty storage (after cleaning them and letting them dry out) and there's sometimes mould growing up the underside of the cap when I come to sanitse prior to bottling. Interestingly enough, it's mostly on commercial caps, rather than homebrew (maybe as high 20:1).
Tony
I re-cap my bottles before empty storage (after cleaning them and letting them dry out) and there's sometimes mould growing up the underside of the cap when I come to sanitse prior to bottling. Interestingly enough, it's mostly on commercial caps, rather than homebrew (maybe as high 20:1).
Tony
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Tony,Tony wrote:I re-cap my bottles before empty storage (after cleaning them and letting them dry out) and there's sometimes mould growing up the underside of the cap when I come to sanitse prior to bottling.
Do you think that perhaps the bottles aren't perfectly dry when you cap them for storage?
Oliver
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I would be concerned this is a false economy.
The extra work involved in carefully removing, cleaning, storing & sorting the caps, then re-sorting & sanitising them for use, as well as the additional work in getting them back on just right, and the worry that if they have not fitted your beer will be ruined, versus the fact that bulk caps are cheap and readily available. I am not sure that the net gain is worth it.
I have about 500 virgin caps sitting in my stores- total cost was $9.00 for a bulk buy of 1000 last year. That's less than 1 cent each!
Also, Nanna Gail, a standard Texta will mark a plain gold cap however you wish. My brews usually have a two or three letter code on each bottle, which is removed once the labels go on.
Salut!
The extra work involved in carefully removing, cleaning, storing & sorting the caps, then re-sorting & sanitising them for use, as well as the additional work in getting them back on just right, and the worry that if they have not fitted your beer will be ruined, versus the fact that bulk caps are cheap and readily available. I am not sure that the net gain is worth it.
I have about 500 virgin caps sitting in my stores- total cost was $9.00 for a bulk buy of 1000 last year. That's less than 1 cent each!
Also, Nanna Gail, a standard Texta will mark a plain gold cap however you wish. My brews usually have a two or three letter code on each bottle, which is removed once the labels go on.
Salut!
don't forget the $50 outlay for a bench capper uc1undercover1 wrote:I would be concerned this is a false economy.
The extra work involved in carefully removing, cleaning, storing & sorting the caps, then re-sorting & sanitising them for use, as well as the additional work in getting them back on just right, and the worry that if they have not fitted your beer will be ruined, versus the fact that bulk caps are cheap and readily available. I am not sure that the net gain is worth it.
I have about 500 virgin caps sitting in my stores- total cost was $9.00 for a bulk buy of 1000 last year. That's less than 1 cent each!
Also, Nanna Gail, a standard Texta will mark a plain gold cap however you wish. My brews usually have a two or three letter code on each bottle, which is removed once the labels go on.
Salut!
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Or perhaps $5.00 for a hand capper, db?db wrote: don't forget the $50 outlay for a bench capper uc1
Yes, The Super Automatica is a boon, and is perhaps my favorite item of equipment- next to my custom made racking tube. It is not vital, but it is $50 VERY well spent. Can be found for even less on eBay.
Salut!
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A $5.00 bell-type capper and a rubber mallet will cap screw or roll tops with a bit of application and practise, db. The physical effect on the cap is the same as the Automatica, though not as elegant as it involves bashing something with a hammer, as opposed to the Automatica's smooth gliding stroke. Sitting the bottle on a wooden bread board helps prevent breakages.db wrote:i was under the impression that it's either not possible or not advisable to cap twisties with a hand capper.. i havent tried the bell with handle type but i used to own a hand capper with 2 handles.. kinda like a big pair of pliers.. & it wouldn't cap twisties..
custom made racking tube?
Racking tube- 2 metres of food grade PVC hose, with a 50cm rigid food grade PVC tube clamped to each end, sealed with food grade sealant. 3cm wire spike on one end to keep the opening above the trub. Optional wire clip for attaching to the fermenter. Insert, prime, and walk away. No leaks, no hidden corners for infection, easy to clean, transparent for your viewing pleasure. I was thinking of getting some SS tubing to crimp and drill for the intake end, but don't really want to tamper with it.
Salut!
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Friday Jan 07, 2005 4:34 pm
- Location: Canberra