Some questions from an apprentice brewer

[Wally]

As the title indicates I am new to this exiting hobby of brewing my own beer. I have a few questions for the more experience brewers. Up to now I have been doing the standard thing i.e. adding a can of premixed malt and hops from a supplier with some fermentable sugars to a fermenter and topping it up to 23 litres with water. Wait a week and bottle, wait two weeks and drink. On this and other websites I notice that there is more that can be done, hence the questions.

1. Secondary fermentation in another fermenter. What does this do and when do you do it. Can you add the carbonation sugar straight to this second fermenter before bottling or do you need to decant a 3rd time before you do this?
2. The use of concentrated malts such as those supplied by Coopers (not the premixed beer concentrates). Do you have to boil these before you use them, or can you just add the right quantity to the fermenter and then add the hops extract on top of this?
3. If you use some sort of a coagulant (finning) would there be enough yeast cells left in the fermented beer to allow bottle fermentation once bottled or do you have to add new yeast before bottling?
4. If I use a totally fermentable sugar such as dextrose what will the alcohol contribution be per say 100g of sugar on a 23-litre mix?
5. If I want to replace the canned concentrated malts in the place of a dry malt do I use the same mass or must I increase it to allow for the water in the can, if so how much allowance? Do I have to boil the malt from the can first in this case?

Wally

[Lebowski]

I'm not an expert but I can try to answer a few
1. I rack to another fermenter to get my beer clearer once the airlock stops bubbling (though some people do it before fermentation finishes I have heard this can cause fermentation to stall?) You can add the carbonation sugar straight to secondary fermenter just before bottling (search bulk priming)

2. I dont think you have to boil them, I think I heard people say it can darken the malt if you do this.

3. I've used finings a few times before bottling and never had a problem.

4. No idea for this one , 1kg gives about 4.8 or something I think I heard when mixed with a standard kit

5. I dont know the exact measurements but you need to use more liquid malt than dry malt to account for the water like you said. My last kit I used 1 tin of muntons blonde beer, 1.5kg tin of amber malt extract and it turned out nice.

[The Carbonator]

2. The use of concentrated malts such as those supplied by Coopers (not the premixed beer concentrates). Do you have to boil these before you use them, or can you just add the right quantity to the fermenter and then add the hops extract on top of this?

Wally

I have also wondered why you need to boil the malt
I have never tried it, but i am about to....

From what i have gathered, people boil the kit, and malt extract with some added hops to get the bitterness level up, so as to offset the sweetness.
If you dont boil the hops, but just throw them into fermenter you get the flavour and aroma, but no bitterness.

Cheers

[General]

Wally,

1. Secondary fermentation is for clearing your beer, and will take more yeast out of suspension, you do it after primary fermentation, but before bottling, if you bulk prime in this fermenter, you will more than likely stir up the yeast bed again, a better idea is to rack back to the primary fermenter (after it has been cleaned obviously) and bulk prime there. (you will lose some beer in this method.)

2. I beleive you boil to sanitise.

3. Fining leaves enough yest to bottle condition (carbonate), and should be done 24hours prior to bottling.

4. Unsure of the alcohol content added by 100g Dextrose, but checking your hydrometer with some experience will show how much dextrose to use for your desired alcohol/volume. (I heard a second kg of dex will increase alc/vol by 2.5%)

5. Unsure, never tried, also interested though.

Hope this helps.

[scblack]

4. No idea for this one , 1kg gives about 4.8 or something I think I heard when mixed with a standard kit

I'm finding just adding the 1kg is coming to 4.0-4.2%, and need about an extra 500g to get to 4.6-4.8%.

[Lebowski]

4. No idea for this one , 1kg gives about 4.8 or something I think I heard when mixed with a standard kit

I'm finding just adding the 1kg is coming to 4.0-4.2%, and need about an extra 500g to get to 4.6-4.8%.

You're probably right,

Theres a bit on this site about 1kg dextrose raising alchohol by 2.5%
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/qanda.html

[Aussie Claret]

Hi,
1. Perfect answer by the general.
2. All the answers are correct and additionally as per Dodger, boiling can help to clear the beer and reduce chill haze, correct me if I'm wrong Dodger. Boiling the malt can darken the wort but only if the malt starts to catch or burn, electric oven rings are notorious for this, hence previous recommendations for using gas flame.
3. Adding finnings assists in clearing the beer, there will be enough yeast in suspension to allow bottle carbonation. I as a rule add finnings about 3/4 of the way through primary fermentation or on the 4th day.
4. Adding about 160g to a 23l batch will increase the alc. content by approx. 0.5% so 100g would roughly increase the alc. content by approx 0.3%
5. Due to the water content in liquid malts you generally add approx. 20% more than dry malts for a similar effect.

Cheers
AC

[Chris]

AC is right on point. Oliver, how about a sticky?

[Oliver]

Always happy to post stickies.

When I've got a chance, I'll roll this all into one and post it as a sticky.

That is unless someone would like to volunteer...

Oliver

[Dogger Dan]

I would but I seem to be wearing teflon today. Nothing is sticking

Dogger