Hey guys,
I've put down the following stout recipe:
1 Coopers Stout Can
1kg DDME
250g Maltodextron
Boiled till combined
250g rolled oats steaped 10-15 mins
12g Goldings steeped 10 mins
Both added just before boil finished
made to 18lt using kit yeast
This fermented in the primary for 4 days at a fairly steady 18-22 degrees and has since been racked to secondary and has been in there for 5 days but seems to have hit a wall.
I didn't take an OG reading but SG was 1024 when i racked to secondary and it dropped to 1020 after one day but has sat there since then.
Is this still too high to bottle?
Should i wait another few days?
Should i add another yeast packet?
Cheers
Stout Fermentation Stuck?
As gregb says, sit tight......no harm in another 5-7 days. Your brew will do what it has too, dont introduce another yeast. Please !gregb wrote:Sit tight for a few days. If it is still SG of 1020 then bottle.
Cheers,
Greg
Just in adding newers, your oats should be mashed. Not steeped.
" White Wine with Roast Beef ! how dare you ? "..... " I dare because I like it ! " ....Dogger on the meaning of life.
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da_damage_done
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Hi PalemanPaleman wrote: Just in adding newers, your oats should be mashed. Not steeped.
I have been steeping my oats too
Can you or someone else explain the distinction between mashing and steeping with respect to oats, and also explain the process for using oats?
I can't seem to find anything concrete on it in the forums.
Cheers
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Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
Hi,
Oats, and a few speciality malts need to be mash, which is basically steeping but with other grains such as lager, pale malt, that have diastatic enzymes. The enzymes help to convert the sugar into a fermentable form but because oats do not have any diastatic enzymes the sugars cannot be converted. Basically mashing with other malts that contain diastatic enzymes lend a hand to help conversion.
A simple basic idea of the process. check the link out for a bit more info.
http://www.brewingtechniques.com/bmg/noonan.html
AC
Oats, and a few speciality malts need to be mash, which is basically steeping but with other grains such as lager, pale malt, that have diastatic enzymes. The enzymes help to convert the sugar into a fermentable form but because oats do not have any diastatic enzymes the sugars cannot be converted. Basically mashing with other malts that contain diastatic enzymes lend a hand to help conversion.
A simple basic idea of the process. check the link out for a bit more info.
http://www.brewingtechniques.com/bmg/noonan.html
AC
There's nothing wrong with having nothing to say - unless you insist on saying it. (Anonymous)
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da_damage_done
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Sunday Oct 23, 2005 11:54 am
- Location: Wollongong, NSW, Australia
- Contact:
AC you have gone a little over my head
I just bottled a stout which I put rolled oats in.
I prepared the oats by putting them into 70*C water for 30mins stirring occasionally. I then strained out the solid bits and added the remaining liquid to the brew.
Is this correct or should I be approaching this differently?
From what you said in your post I take it that if I wanted to be able extract fememtable sugars from the oats, enzymes from another grain is required to achieve the conversion.
I'm not too worried about extracting the fermentable sugars - I was more concerned with achieving a smoother beer - which from what I've read in the forum can be achieved by adding oats.
Any clarification would be much appreciated.
Cheers
I just bottled a stout which I put rolled oats in.
I prepared the oats by putting them into 70*C water for 30mins stirring occasionally. I then strained out the solid bits and added the remaining liquid to the brew.
Is this correct or should I be approaching this differently?
From what you said in your post I take it that if I wanted to be able extract fememtable sugars from the oats, enzymes from another grain is required to achieve the conversion.
I'm not too worried about extracting the fermentable sugars - I was more concerned with achieving a smoother beer - which from what I've read in the forum can be achieved by adding oats.
Any clarification would be much appreciated.
Cheers
-
Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
DDD,
Your approach for steeping grains/oats is correct temperatures 65-70c time usually 1 hr. If you were to add oats again I would suggest that you try to add some base malt (which would make a mash).
Adding oats to a stout does make the beer smoother, you won't have a problem as you are making a stout (dark beer) however if anyone were to try adding oats after steeping alone into a lighter coloured beer you are very likely to have a very cloudy beer.
Oh by the way leave the beer a while to condition, stout gets much better after allowing maturing time. it may be very nice whilst young but will imporve with age.
AC
Your approach for steeping grains/oats is correct temperatures 65-70c time usually 1 hr. If you were to add oats again I would suggest that you try to add some base malt (which would make a mash).
Adding oats to a stout does make the beer smoother, you won't have a problem as you are making a stout (dark beer) however if anyone were to try adding oats after steeping alone into a lighter coloured beer you are very likely to have a very cloudy beer.
Oh by the way leave the beer a while to condition, stout gets much better after allowing maturing time. it may be very nice whilst young but will imporve with age.
AC
There's nothing wrong with having nothing to say - unless you insist on saying it. (Anonymous)
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da_damage_done
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- Location: Wollongong, NSW, Australia
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All went well my friends. A heavyish body, sweeter than I expected (obviously due to the high FG) but nicely balanced with the bitterness.
I only added 1/2 to 3/4 of a measure of priming dextrose to each bottle because i didn't want the full carbonation of a light coloured beer. This however, has lead to a carbonation level that is still under what i would like, but i expect it to increase slightly over time to the level i was trying to achieve.
I will definately use this recipe again, however my next brew will be another stout based on gregb's two can recipe.
Coopers Stout
Coopers Dark Ale
100g Crystal Grain
150g Choc Grain
15g Fuggles - Dry Hopped for aroma
Brewed to 22lt
Safale S-04 (first time using non-kit yeast
)
Cheers
I only added 1/2 to 3/4 of a measure of priming dextrose to each bottle because i didn't want the full carbonation of a light coloured beer. This however, has lead to a carbonation level that is still under what i would like, but i expect it to increase slightly over time to the level i was trying to achieve.
I will definately use this recipe again, however my next brew will be another stout based on gregb's two can recipe.
Coopers Stout
Coopers Dark Ale
100g Crystal Grain
150g Choc Grain
15g Fuggles - Dry Hopped for aroma
Brewed to 22lt
Safale S-04 (first time using non-kit yeast
)Cheers
This thread has been very interesting reading for a number of reasons, me being a new brewer. I am nearly ready to bottle Brew No. 3 which is very exciting for me indeed. A freebie Wander lager with HBS LDME/DEX/MDEX dry mix, some Brigalow brewers yeast (lager or ale? Don't know) and a hops tea-bag (can't remember what bloody type, but HBS assured me it would be compatable!) First brew was freebie Wander Lager (I got 3 of them - probably should have wondered why they were given to me!) with just the can, tap water and caster sugar. Bottles also primed with caster sugar. I drank them young from 2 - 4 weeks and they were drinkable, nothing more - a bit cidery. Second brew was same, but with Wander brewing sugar (dex & sucrose) and coro drops for priming - just tasted one after 10 days - about the same taste as the first. I'm sure that it would improve with age, bust it's just not going to get the chance! As much as the thought pains me, I think I'll buy a carton or 2 of piss to get me through so that I can leave brew #3 for a month at least before I rip into it.
I am just about to put down a Coopers Dark Ale with a 1kg can of Morgans liquid dark crystal malt blend , and here's where this thread is very interesting for me. With the grains (or oats), do they have to be malted before steeping and adding to the brew, or can you just use rolled oats or barley grain from the health shop? Newers, when you refer to crystal or choc grain, is it already malted? I've roasted some barley grain and was going to crack it, steep it and add to the brew but in another thread Chris has suggested that I malt it first, which sounds a bit too complicated to me.
Also, the HBS sold me the dark malt can, but didn't suggest any hops. Would Fuggles be good for a dark ale (not quite a stout, hey?) or can you recommend another type to counter the extra sweetness that the 1kg liquid dark malt will probably bring?
And lastly (for now!), what kind of yeast comes with the Coopers Dark Ale, and should I try a non-kit yeast? What difference will it make.
I realise that I've asked a hundred questions, each with probably a thousand correct answers.
So, anyone?
I am just about to put down a Coopers Dark Ale with a 1kg can of Morgans liquid dark crystal malt blend , and here's where this thread is very interesting for me. With the grains (or oats), do they have to be malted before steeping and adding to the brew, or can you just use rolled oats or barley grain from the health shop? Newers, when you refer to crystal or choc grain, is it already malted? I've roasted some barley grain and was going to crack it, steep it and add to the brew but in another thread Chris has suggested that I malt it first, which sounds a bit too complicated to me.
Also, the HBS sold me the dark malt can, but didn't suggest any hops. Would Fuggles be good for a dark ale (not quite a stout, hey?) or can you recommend another type to counter the extra sweetness that the 1kg liquid dark malt will probably bring?
And lastly (for now!), what kind of yeast comes with the Coopers Dark Ale, and should I try a non-kit yeast? What difference will it make.
I realise that I've asked a hundred questions, each with probably a thousand correct answers.
So, anyone?
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Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
Thirsty,
Stick with the grains already malted from the home brew store, my local HBS supplies grains and will crack them for you as you wait for no extra charge, they charge $3.00 /Kg. As for the oats any rolled oats should be fine (porridge type no worries). Personally I'd leave them out of this recipe, if you like it may be try it again in the future with them and do a comparison, the oats will make the beer quite thick / rich.
You asked about hops in a dark ale, fuggles would be good, but you could also use williamette or if you like american styles of beer try Cascade or Amerillo both very nice.
I would suggest that perhaps you use only half of the dark crystal malt that you bought and compliment that with 500g-1000g of light malt, you will need to add some bittering hops(suggest 20-30g but this will depend on the type and AA% of the hops you use, try to get fresh hops not the tea bags), boil them with say 500g of the malt to 3-5litres of water for 20mins, after which add the rest of the malt and add some flavour / aroma hops 1g/l of wort.
Lastly the coopers yeast is an ale yeast, do yourself a favour and get some Safale S04 or US56 (the best $3-4) you'll spend.
Temperature control is the biggest single factor that will influence your beer, keep it constant and within the recommended temp. range for ales 16-18c is my preference, above this range you will notice ester profiles developing. in the mid to high 20's you'll have a lot of fruity and other undesirable funky flavours.
AC
Stick with the grains already malted from the home brew store, my local HBS supplies grains and will crack them for you as you wait for no extra charge, they charge $3.00 /Kg. As for the oats any rolled oats should be fine (porridge type no worries). Personally I'd leave them out of this recipe, if you like it may be try it again in the future with them and do a comparison, the oats will make the beer quite thick / rich.
You asked about hops in a dark ale, fuggles would be good, but you could also use williamette or if you like american styles of beer try Cascade or Amerillo both very nice.
I would suggest that perhaps you use only half of the dark crystal malt that you bought and compliment that with 500g-1000g of light malt, you will need to add some bittering hops(suggest 20-30g but this will depend on the type and AA% of the hops you use, try to get fresh hops not the tea bags), boil them with say 500g of the malt to 3-5litres of water for 20mins, after which add the rest of the malt and add some flavour / aroma hops 1g/l of wort.
Lastly the coopers yeast is an ale yeast, do yourself a favour and get some Safale S04 or US56 (the best $3-4) you'll spend.
Temperature control is the biggest single factor that will influence your beer, keep it constant and within the recommended temp. range for ales 16-18c is my preference, above this range you will notice ester profiles developing. in the mid to high 20's you'll have a lot of fruity and other undesirable funky flavours.
AC
There's nothing wrong with having nothing to say - unless you insist on saying it. (Anonymous)