Best to use for 2 can brew
use a 60lt fermenter here as well, r.magnay
I mix between kegging and bottleing, with a few 50 and 20lt kegs. bottleing/ cleaning is a real factory line here, liveing in a uni college, ive got a few brewing mates here and we often have bottling nights, and allways end up roling drunk and breaking more bottles than we fill by the end of the night.
I picked up a 60lt cherry barrel from a farm supply shop for 25$ and put it and a tap on my old mans account, it works great.
ive started doing 50lt batchers with 3 cans, which is 19lt short of instructions, and use 2.5kg BE. Ive done this with a pale ale which is comeing along great in the keg and should be a great brew in a few weeks. and ive got 50lt of coopers bitter on now which ive got high expectations for.
I mix between kegging and bottleing, with a few 50 and 20lt kegs. bottleing/ cleaning is a real factory line here, liveing in a uni college, ive got a few brewing mates here and we often have bottling nights, and allways end up roling drunk and breaking more bottles than we fill by the end of the night.
I picked up a 60lt cherry barrel from a farm supply shop for 25$ and put it and a tap on my old mans account, it works great.
ive started doing 50lt batchers with 3 cans, which is 19lt short of instructions, and use 2.5kg BE. Ive done this with a pale ale which is comeing along great in the keg and should be a great brew in a few weeks. and ive got 50lt of coopers bitter on now which ive got high expectations for.
two can brews
using a Malt Shovel 11.5 litre fermenter and their 1.7kg cans (1 can with only water & yeast - Pale Ale, Twin Row Lager, etc.). Results are nice and malty without overdoing it - very palatable.
So two Malt Shovel cans plus water & yeast (both sachets) to a volume of 23 litres should produce identical results and twice the quantity.
My question: Can I use 1.7 kg cans from say, Coopers, Morgans, etc the same way? I.E. 1 can, water & yeast to a volume of 11.5 litres.
My HBS man says no, the Coopers etc would be too strong!
I have one can of Coopers Australian Pale Ale - will this be OK with just water & yeast to 11.5L ?
I also have a can of ESB Pilsener Beer Pack - same question.
Any help greatly appreciated.
So two Malt Shovel cans plus water & yeast (both sachets) to a volume of 23 litres should produce identical results and twice the quantity.
My question: Can I use 1.7 kg cans from say, Coopers, Morgans, etc the same way? I.E. 1 can, water & yeast to a volume of 11.5 litres.
My HBS man says no, the Coopers etc would be too strong!
I have one can of Coopers Australian Pale Ale - will this be OK with just water & yeast to 11.5L ?
I also have a can of ESB Pilsener Beer Pack - same question.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Pacman
Pacman
bringing this back to the top...
I scored two Coopers Bitters for $4.40 each today as their best before date is 2 weeks away.
was thinking of doing the 2 can thing with these guys as my 2nd brew - just one question - I have a 30l coopers fermenter, will this gush out the top of the airlock @ 22-24deg ambient temp?
I scored two Coopers Bitters for $4.40 each today as their best before date is 2 weeks away.
was thinking of doing the 2 can thing with these guys as my 2nd brew - just one question - I have a 30l coopers fermenter, will this gush out the top of the airlock @ 22-24deg ambient temp?
I think the general thinking is that adding 2 bitter kits together will give you an overly bitter beerAsh wrote:bringing this back to the top...
I scored two Coopers Bitters for $4.40 each today as their best before date is 2 weeks away.
was thinking of doing the 2 can thing with these guys as my 2nd brew - just one question - I have a 30l coopers fermenter, will this gush out the top of the airlock @ 22-24deg ambient temp?
crap, I hope it isn't too harsh.
can you add malt after pitching? I know there's infection potential but if the beer is going to be shit without it I think it's worth the risk.
Plus if it's already fermenting & producing CO2 surely some malt disolved in boiled water, left to cool to ~20deg or so & then added would be OK?
edit: actually the wort tasted alright to me in the hydrometer tube, better than the kilkenny clone did at the same age. might just suck it & see
can you add malt after pitching? I know there's infection potential but if the beer is going to be shit without it I think it's worth the risk.
Plus if it's already fermenting & producing CO2 surely some malt disolved in boiled water, left to cool to ~20deg or so & then added would be OK?
edit: actually the wort tasted alright to me in the hydrometer tube, better than the kilkenny clone did at the same age. might just suck it & see
Last edited by Ash on Saturday Jun 10, 2006 9:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Umm, shit Ash I might leave that to somebody else. But then again why not? Go for itAsh wrote:crap, I hope it isn't too harsh.
can you add malt after pitching? I know there's infection potential but if the beer is going to be shit without it I think it's worth the risk.
Plus if it's already fermenting & producing CO2 surely some malt disolved in boiled water, left to cool to ~20deg or so & then added would be OK?
wouldnt worry ash, it will be ok,
could be good uf you you made it up to 30lt.
I wouldnt worry about infections if you want to add stuff to it, infection risk is over rated, ive done some stupid shit, like pushing the airlock grummet into the mix and sticking my arm in to get it, and the beer was still bloudy good. I did wash my arm with sanatiser quickly first though!
trust me opening the lid and adding shit will be of minimal risk, but i wouldnt bother if i was you, it could turn out to be a good mix
could be good uf you you made it up to 30lt.
I wouldnt worry about infections if you want to add stuff to it, infection risk is over rated, ive done some stupid shit, like pushing the airlock grummet into the mix and sticking my arm in to get it, and the beer was still bloudy good. I did wash my arm with sanatiser quickly first though!
trust me opening the lid and adding shit will be of minimal risk, but i wouldnt bother if i was you, it could turn out to be a good mix
Did it with 2 Coopers draught cans
I used the yeast from 3 coopers pale ale stubbies and just 2 cans of draught (again got them cheap), made 23 litres.
Bottled on the 26th of Feb this year.
I have been trying a bottle every couple of weeks and man have they been bitter! The first lot were undrinkable they were that bitter, now they aren't bad but still have a bitter after taste and the head I get when poured is huge very foamy.
The taste is very good before the bitternes hits, but after a few mouthfulls you know its coming and you just don't want to drink anymore.
I can't convince anyone else that there ok. So I guess it's thumbs down for 2 cans of draught.
Bottled on the 26th of Feb this year.
I have been trying a bottle every couple of weeks and man have they been bitter! The first lot were undrinkable they were that bitter, now they aren't bad but still have a bitter after taste and the head I get when poured is huge very foamy.
The taste is very good before the bitternes hits, but after a few mouthfulls you know its coming and you just don't want to drink anymore.
I can't convince anyone else that there ok. So I guess it's thumbs down for 2 cans of draught.
two can brews
Put down 11.5L batch yesterday afternoon, using 1.5kg of my 1.7kg tin of Coopers Australian Pale Ale, and pitching 15 grams of BrewCellar American Ale yeast (whatever that is - batch # 003 5213). Guess 003 is the identifier, packed on 213rd day of 2005.
Pitched @ 22deg C., OG 1040.
Fermentation started about 15 minutes after pitching yeast.
Result should be available towards end of August. Hope it's not as bitter as unicamrep's brew!
Pitched @ 22deg C., OG 1040.
Fermentation started about 15 minutes after pitching yeast.
Result should be available towards end of August. Hope it's not as bitter as unicamrep's brew!
Cheers,
Pacman
Pacman
well if unicamrep's turned out overly bitter with 2 cans of draught I'd imagine 2 cans of bitter like I did would be worse!
anyone know how to find out the comparitive IBUs of different cans? Can't find it on the cans nor on cooper's site.
I'm going to add in 1kg of LDME as soon as I can buy it (long weekend & all) She's bubbling more than my previous brew but not coming out of the airlock or anything. I think I read somewhere more than 500gm of LDME per can made the beer too sweet (when doing a normal batch) so I figure a double strength batch with twice the bitterness needs twice the malt to balance it, yeah? Should be a strong brew when done!
edit: found the IBUs here - defiantely adding some malt to it
anyone know how to find out the comparitive IBUs of different cans? Can't find it on the cans nor on cooper's site.
I'm going to add in 1kg of LDME as soon as I can buy it (long weekend & all) She's bubbling more than my previous brew but not coming out of the airlock or anything. I think I read somewhere more than 500gm of LDME per can made the beer too sweet (when doing a normal batch) so I figure a double strength batch with twice the bitterness needs twice the malt to balance it, yeah? Should be a strong brew when done!
edit: found the IBUs here - defiantely adding some malt to it
2 can coopers draught
Just tried a bottle and it has mellowed out a fair bit.
It doesn't have anywhere near the bitterness it had a month ago, still is bitter though.
But at the same time there isn't a lot of flavour going on.
I will definitely use the yeast from a coopers pale ale bottle, I don't know if I'd do the 2 can brew again.
Grant.
It doesn't have anywhere near the bitterness it had a month ago, still is bitter though.
But at the same time there isn't a lot of flavour going on.
I will definitely use the yeast from a coopers pale ale bottle, I don't know if I'd do the 2 can brew again.
Grant.
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Oliver
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Ash,
I did a double-can brew of two cans of Coopers Real Ae and 620g glucose. It was just too syrupy and fairly bitter. You couldn't drink a great deal of it at a time. One longneck between two was about the limit.
I'm not sure of the relative IBUs of Coopers Real Ale v. Coopers Bitter, but I'd reckon bitter might be more bitter. You might be in for an interesting beer.
But if it's undrinkable on its own, you could always use it as a blending beer.
Oliver
I did a double-can brew of two cans of Coopers Real Ae and 620g glucose. It was just too syrupy and fairly bitter. You couldn't drink a great deal of it at a time. One longneck between two was about the limit.
I'm not sure of the relative IBUs of Coopers Real Ale v. Coopers Bitter, but I'd reckon bitter might be more bitter. You might be in for an interesting beer.
But if it's undrinkable on its own, you could always use it as a blending beer.
Oliver
I did add a kilo of LDME in 2l of water & stirred it in with a sterilised spoon, so in all there's 2 cans of bitter & 1kg of malt in 25l.
She appears to have stopped fermenting smack bang on 1020 after only 8 days total (including adding the ldme 3 days after putting it down) so hopefully it'll be OK. the hydrometer tube tasted alright, strong though. I'm labelling the bottles "Sock remover" as in "It'll knock your socks off"
According to that link in my last post real ale is a 29 IBU & bitter is 32 IBU.
I hope the kilo of malt mellowed it a bit, it's still pretty dark & cloudy, hopefully she clears up by Wednesday when I've got time to bottle it.
No sign of an infection from opening her up & adding the malt BTW.
She appears to have stopped fermenting smack bang on 1020 after only 8 days total (including adding the ldme 3 days after putting it down) so hopefully it'll be OK. the hydrometer tube tasted alright, strong though. I'm labelling the bottles "Sock remover" as in "It'll knock your socks off"
According to that link in my last post real ale is a 29 IBU & bitter is 32 IBU.
I hope the kilo of malt mellowed it a bit, it's still pretty dark & cloudy, hopefully she clears up by Wednesday when I've got time to bottle it.
No sign of an infection from opening her up & adding the malt BTW.