
little creatures pale ale clone please!!!
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little creatures pale ale clone please!!!
mmm just got a 6 pack of this stuff and i love it!!! like a coopers pale ale but smoother and slightly maltier ithink. theres also a subtle sweetness like honey or something? would like a clone using some kit as a base. what yeast would get me close?can i just reculture the dregs? they reckon they use a different yeast to clean up after the first one? this will become my staple please help i love BEER 

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- Location: Brisbane
The following recipe is on my to do list so I can't comment on how close it comes to the original, but it's a good starting point.
Black Rock Pilsner Blonde (or other pilsner/blonde premixed LME)
Brewcraft Brewblend #15 (500g Dextrose, 250g Maltodextrine, 250g Malt Extract)
150g light malt
10g Willamette hops (1 sachet)
20g Cascade hops (2 sachets)
US-56 Safale yeast
Make your final volume 20-21 litres only for this brew.
Hal.
Black Rock Pilsner Blonde (or other pilsner/blonde premixed LME)
Brewcraft Brewblend #15 (500g Dextrose, 250g Maltodextrine, 250g Malt Extract)
150g light malt
10g Willamette hops (1 sachet)
20g Cascade hops (2 sachets)
US-56 Safale yeast
Make your final volume 20-21 litres only for this brew.
Hal.
This beer rocks IMHO. Its my standard house ale.
This is from the Sierra Nevada website which is what most of these types of APA are based on:
ABV= 5.6%
SG 13.0 Plato = 1.053
FG 2.8 Plato = 1.011
IBU = 37
Yeast= top fermenting ale
Bittering= Magnum+Perle
Finishing= Cascade
Malt = Two row Pale + Caramel
I brew AG, so not too sure on kit recipe, but any unhopped Pale extract + a brew enhancer with 100g of steeped crystal malt and plenty of cascade in the boil and US-56 or Wyeast 1056 will get you pretty close.
For anyone interested in an AG recipe here 'tis:
APA
Brew Type: All Grain Date:
Style: American Pale Ale Brewer: Duane
Batch Size: 15.00 L Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 13.00 L Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Brewing Steps Check Time Step
Clean and prepare equipment.
-- Measure ingredients, crush grains.
-- Prepare 17.81 L water for brewing
-- Prepare Ingredients for Mash
Amount Item Type
3.50 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (5.9 EBC) Grain
0.15 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC) Grain
0.15 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (78.8 EBC) Grain
-- WARNING: Preheat Mash Tun - No equipment adjustments made!
2 min Mash Ingredients
Mash In: Add 9.91 L of water at 74.4 C
60 min - Hold mash at 67.8 C for 60 min
-- Batch Sparge Round 1: Sparge with 1.01 L of 75.6 C water.
-- Batch Sparge Round 2: Sparge with 6.89 L of 75.6 C water.
-- Add water to achieve boil volume of 13.00 L
-- Estimated Pre-boil Gravity is: 1.061 SG with all grains/extracts added
Boil for 60 min Start to Boil
Amount Item Type
5.00 gm Magnum [14.00%] (60 min) Hops
5.00 gm Pearle [8.00%] (60 min) Hops
30 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (30 min)
35 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (25 min)
45 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (15 min)
50 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (10 min)
55 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (5 min)
60 min into boil Add 20.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (0 min)
Steep for 60 min Steep 30.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (60 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)
-- Cool wort to fermentation temperature
-- Add water (as needed) to achieve volume of 15.00 L
-- Siphon wort to primary fermenter and aerate wort.
-- Wyeast 1056 or Safale US-56
Measure Original Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 1.053 SG)
Measure Batch Volume: ________ (Estimate: 15.00 L)
4 days Ferment in primary for 4 days at 16 C
Transfer to Secondary Fermenter
7 days Ferment in secondary for 7 days at 16 C
Measure Final Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 1.014 SG)
-- Bottle beer at 15.6 C with 85.0 gm of corn sugar.
4.0 Weeks Age for 4.0 Weeks at 11.1 C
Sample and enjoy!
Hope this helps and not confuse
,Cheers Duane
This is from the Sierra Nevada website which is what most of these types of APA are based on:
ABV= 5.6%
SG 13.0 Plato = 1.053
FG 2.8 Plato = 1.011
IBU = 37
Yeast= top fermenting ale
Bittering= Magnum+Perle
Finishing= Cascade
Malt = Two row Pale + Caramel
I brew AG, so not too sure on kit recipe, but any unhopped Pale extract + a brew enhancer with 100g of steeped crystal malt and plenty of cascade in the boil and US-56 or Wyeast 1056 will get you pretty close.
For anyone interested in an AG recipe here 'tis:
APA
Brew Type: All Grain Date:
Style: American Pale Ale Brewer: Duane
Batch Size: 15.00 L Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 13.00 L Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Brewing Steps Check Time Step
Clean and prepare equipment.
-- Measure ingredients, crush grains.
-- Prepare 17.81 L water for brewing
-- Prepare Ingredients for Mash
Amount Item Type
3.50 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (5.9 EBC) Grain
0.15 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC) Grain
0.15 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (78.8 EBC) Grain
-- WARNING: Preheat Mash Tun - No equipment adjustments made!
2 min Mash Ingredients
Mash In: Add 9.91 L of water at 74.4 C
60 min - Hold mash at 67.8 C for 60 min
-- Batch Sparge Round 1: Sparge with 1.01 L of 75.6 C water.
-- Batch Sparge Round 2: Sparge with 6.89 L of 75.6 C water.
-- Add water to achieve boil volume of 13.00 L
-- Estimated Pre-boil Gravity is: 1.061 SG with all grains/extracts added
Boil for 60 min Start to Boil
Amount Item Type
5.00 gm Magnum [14.00%] (60 min) Hops
5.00 gm Pearle [8.00%] (60 min) Hops
30 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (30 min)
35 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (25 min)
45 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (15 min)
50 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (10 min)
55 min into boil Add 10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (5 min)
60 min into boil Add 20.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (0 min)
Steep for 60 min Steep 30.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (60 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)
-- Cool wort to fermentation temperature
-- Add water (as needed) to achieve volume of 15.00 L
-- Siphon wort to primary fermenter and aerate wort.
-- Wyeast 1056 or Safale US-56
Measure Original Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 1.053 SG)
Measure Batch Volume: ________ (Estimate: 15.00 L)
4 days Ferment in primary for 4 days at 16 C
Transfer to Secondary Fermenter
7 days Ferment in secondary for 7 days at 16 C
Measure Final Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 1.014 SG)
-- Bottle beer at 15.6 C with 85.0 gm of corn sugar.
4.0 Weeks Age for 4.0 Weeks at 11.1 C
Sample and enjoy!
Hope this helps and not confuse

From this site a while back. Haven't made it, but its next on the list. appologies to who ever first posted, I don't remember who it was.
Morgans Stockmans Draught (1can 1.7kgs)
Coopers Light malt extract unhopped(1 can 1.5kg)
Coopers brew enhancer 1 (body Booster) 500g
12g Cluster Hops (morgans boil in bag)
24g Cascade Hops (morgans boil in bag)
yeast as supplied with Draught can
Made upto 23l boiled LME and BE1 for 30mins, adding cluster hops, then added 12g cascade hops for 10mins and final 12g for last minute.
This beer is absolutely sensational, hoppy and malty, quite strong in alc. as I didn't take SG or OG readings I'm guessing around 6-6.5% Fermentation temp in low 20's, racked to secondary, after about 1week in secondary cold conditioned for a few weeks. (kegged and bottled the balance). After about 4 weeks conditioning, I can thorougly recommend this recipe. Colour golden brown, clear and good head retention.
Keep it reel 

I think Duane is on the ball when it comes to cloning beers.
I dont think you can really get close, unless you mash, or partial mash grains, and incorporate the correct hopping.
Im not saying kit cans dont make good beer. I just dont think you can copy a really good commercial beer with kits.........which is what Beerdrinker32 is after.
I dont think you can really get close, unless you mash, or partial mash grains, and incorporate the correct hopping.
Im not saying kit cans dont make good beer. I just dont think you can copy a really good commercial beer with kits.........which is what Beerdrinker32 is after.
" White Wine with Roast Beef ! how dare you ? "..... " I dare because I like it ! " ....Dogger on the meaning of life.
Paleman wrote:I think Duane is on the ball when it comes to cloning beers.
I dont think you can really get close, unless you mash, or partial mash grains, and incorporate the correct hopping.
Im not saying kit cans dont make good beer. I just dont think you can copy a really good commercial beer with kits.........which is what Beerdrinker32 is after.
I disagree i have cloned commercial beers and though they are not exactly the same, they are mighty close, the difference probably being that the homebrew versions were better than the original.

You have a point lethaldog........but i'm talking about really good commercial beers, of which there are'nt many. I consider the Little Creatures a good commercial. I defy a kit brewer to come close even in style and finish. I reckon its a grain brewers domain.lethaldog wrote:Paleman wrote:I think Duane is on the ball when it comes to cloning beers.
I dont think you can really get close, unless you mash, or partial mash grains, and incorporate the correct hopping.
Im not saying kit cans dont make good beer. I just dont think you can copy a really good commercial beer with kits.........which is what Beerdrinker32 is after.
I disagree i have cloned commercial beers and though they are not exactly the same, they are mighty close, the difference probably being that the homebrew versions were better than the original.
As for all the other mega swill commercials. Most good kit brews beat them hands down.
" White Wine with Roast Beef ! how dare you ? "..... " I dare because I like it ! " ....Dogger on the meaning of life.
Although it is possible to get pretty close to most commercial beers, there are WAY too many variables to make a beer that's impossible to tell the difference (unless you've only got two taste buds).
Let me put it this way, if you were to try to clone a beer using all-grain, this is what you'd have to duplicate:
- hops (how much of which hops steeped/boiled at what times)
- grains (look at the list they have at G&G, although it's huge, I'd immagine there are way more types out there
- water PH, hardness/softness, other salts etc
- yeast
- temperatures
- amount and style of carbonation (this is the main barrier to cloning Guiness and Kilkenny, as they are Nitrogen "carbonated")
- filtering (can any homebrewers be bothered with this?)
to name but a few.
I guess if you managed to get the actual recipe the brewery uses, you've taken care of most of it, but natural variability will always come in to play. I guess if you did 10 batches the same you might get one that's extremely close.
That said, homebrew is good!
Let me put it this way, if you were to try to clone a beer using all-grain, this is what you'd have to duplicate:
- hops (how much of which hops steeped/boiled at what times)
- grains (look at the list they have at G&G, although it's huge, I'd immagine there are way more types out there
- water PH, hardness/softness, other salts etc
- yeast
- temperatures
- amount and style of carbonation (this is the main barrier to cloning Guiness and Kilkenny, as they are Nitrogen "carbonated")
- filtering (can any homebrewers be bothered with this?)
to name but a few.
I guess if you managed to get the actual recipe the brewery uses, you've taken care of most of it, but natural variability will always come in to play. I guess if you did 10 batches the same you might get one that's extremely close.
That said, homebrew is good!
I left my fermenter in my other pants
Spot on ! I think Blandy.blandy wrote:Although it is possible to get pretty close to most commercial beers, there are WAY too many variables to make a beer that's impossible to tell the difference (unless you've only got two taste buds).
Let me put it this way, if you were to try to clone a beer using all-grain, this is what you'd have to duplicate:
- hops (how much of which hops steeped/boiled at what times)
- grains (look at the list they have at G&G, although it's huge, I'd immagine there are way more types out there
- water PH, hardness/softness, other salts etc
- yeast
- temperatures
- amount and style of carbonation (this is the main barrier to cloning Guiness and Kilkenny, as they are Nitrogen "carbonated")
- filtering (can any homebrewers be bothered with this?)
to name but a few.
I guess if you managed to get the actual recipe the brewery uses, you've taken care of most of it, but natural variability will always come in to play. I guess if you did 10 batches the same you might get one that's extremely close.
That said, homebrew is good!
The beauty with adding grains to your beer, is you have a wider, fresher choice of malt, and can add any hops ( which are fresher ) you wish to.
Which can get you closer to the beer you want.
Whereas with cans, you get what your given. Isohopped, cans of dehydrated malt extract. To one flavour.
Dont get me wrong, i hold kit beers close to my heart. And i still do them from time to time. I love Coopers Bitter. Its the way i learnt to homebrew properly. And all my kit beers beat any megaswill hands down.
With grain mashing, i'm talking personal styles, and premuim beers.
" White Wine with Roast Beef ! how dare you ? "..... " I dare because I like it ! " ....Dogger on the meaning of life.
beerdrinker32
I made this one last winter and it was pretty good, recipe from my local HBS.
Coopers tradional draught
Munton light powdered malt 1kg
Cascade 25g + Chinook 15g (half taste + half aroma)
Safale US 56
Came out pretty hoppy but very nice. I am about to make another but will cut the hops back to try and get a bit closer to the original. Do a search on US56 and you should find other similar recipes for APA's.
I made this one last winter and it was pretty good, recipe from my local HBS.
Coopers tradional draught
Munton light powdered malt 1kg
Cascade 25g + Chinook 15g (half taste + half aroma)
Safale US 56
Came out pretty hoppy but very nice. I am about to make another but will cut the hops back to try and get a bit closer to the original. Do a search on US56 and you should find other similar recipes for APA's.
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and a airline, but at the very least you need a beer. - Frank Zappa
Heres a link to the Sierra Nevada website,
http://www.sierranevada.com/beers/paleale.html
Theres a list on the left hand side, of the beers they produce, which
unusually lists all the specifics of each beer
A great starting point to formulating your own recipes to try and replicate these beers.
Hope this helps someone.
P.S. Blandy heres a link to AHB thread on filtering.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... &hl=filter
Many brewers do filter and many dont. I guess its just personal choice.As they say, some beers need it to become "bright" but other beers dont. Hopefully I will be getting one of these from Ross when SWMBO approves funding
http://www.sierranevada.com/beers/paleale.html
Theres a list on the left hand side, of the beers they produce, which
unusually lists all the specifics of each beer

A great starting point to formulating your own recipes to try and replicate these beers.
Hope this helps someone.
P.S. Blandy heres a link to AHB thread on filtering.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... &hl=filter
Many brewers do filter and many dont. I guess its just personal choice.As they say, some beers need it to become "bright" but other beers dont. Hopefully I will be getting one of these from Ross when SWMBO approves funding

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- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sunday Jun 04, 2006 6:17 pm
- Location: sydney
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- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sunday Jun 04, 2006 6:17 pm
- Location: sydney
It all comes down to personal taste and smell i guess but my suggestion would be to experiment as everyone has different tastes- i usually dont bother dry hopping but there are many who always do so take your pick i supposeBeerdrinker32 wrote:cheers leathaldog gonna put that one down this weekendgonna use 1.5kg liquid malt with that kit plus cascade for flavour and aroma. would i need to dry hop? also have some tetananger and veinna floating around? the guys seem to think only cascade? need a fair bit to counter the malt??? cheers

