Wals Pilsner Recipes

[Ed]

Mine's a 2 ring burner and plenty good enough when using a decent pot. A 2 ring won't do the job when using converted keg for boilers though.

In a very breif outline (and there are variations to this):

Fly sparging is sparging the grain continuously and at a slow rate until desired kettle volume is reached (after recirculating). ie you feed in the sparge water at the same rate as it flows out. The method is reported to give higher efficiency and cleaner wort. Only 1 recirculation is required.

Batch sparging is running off the volume of the mash at full flow (after recirculating). You then turn off the flow, fill the tun again, recirculate, and flow it off again. Users of batch sparging report that it's easier, less chance of tannin extraction, and faster than fly sparging. You need to recirculate agian on the re-fill of tun.

Claims of users vary. I like fly sparging, others like batch sparging. It doesn't really matter which one you use, a little extra grain will make up any efficiency difference.

Cheers, Ed

[Dogger Dan]

Looks like you have this one well under control Ed,

Lethal, all will be good

Dogger

[Ed]

Lethal, the link below is a good guide to doing a batch sparge. It will walk you through step by step. Should cover about everything http://cruisenews.net/brewing/infusion/

Cheers, Ed

[lethaldog]

Cheers again Ed, your a freaking legend, now all you have to do is construct my setup and mash it and i wont have to do a damn thing
But seriously thanks, my excitement and confidence is building by the second and all this info has been incredibly helpful, ive ordered my copper from the brother in law and already have an esky, now all i need to do is whack it all together and away we go, The grains i ordered arrived today aswell so im just about there
Cant wait

Thank you to for the vote of confidence dogger

[Ed]

Some last tips. If you don't understand a part of the process or why it needs to be done, I'd be leaving it until the following weekend and find the answers during that week. And if you do proceed, don't be too concerned if you run into small problems with the mash.

There is plenty of time to think when mashing. Concentrate on getting the temp into the mid range of saccrification for the first one, next time you can make adjustments from notes taken. If you need to disturb the grain bed because of a stuck sparge, remember to recirculate again until the wort flows clean. Just stop and think about things because timing isn't that critical.

Having everything ready to go and accessible before you start will help too.

Cheers, Ed

[Aussie Claret]

Lethal Dog,
Ed and Dogger have given you a lot of good info here, ready through it and picture what you do and in what order before you start.

One comment though regarding mashing in and temperatures, I would be aiming for a mash temp around the mid 60's as Ed stated BUT I personally don't perheat my esky mash tun but mash in at a temperature 9degs c higher than I want the mash to be. So far I have hit the mash temp 100% of the time to within 0.2 deg. So if you want to mash at 65 c then add your mash water at 74c, and don't preheat your mash tun.

AC

[Dogger Dan]

I do but I find the temp may drop off. The big watch for me is on the dairy thermometer and I aim to hit the temp rather aim for volume. My magic number is 153 or 154 deg F. I can live with a bit more or bit less of water in the mash

Dogger

[lethaldog]

Lethal Dog,
Ed and Dogger have given you a lot of good info here, ready through it and picture what you do and in what order before you start.

One comment though regarding mashing in and temperatures, I would be aiming for a mash temp around the mid 60's as Ed stated BUT I personally don't perheat my esky mash tun but mash in at a temperature 9degs c higher than I want the mash to be. So far I have hit the mash temp 100% of the time to within 0.2 deg. So if you want to mash at 65 c then add your mash water at 74c, and don't preheat your mash tun.

AC

Thanks AC. My understanding from heating the esky was that it would hold the heat longer, same as tempering a thermos i guess, was i wrong?

And believe me m8 ive been picturing ever since all you buggers convinced me that it was the way to go
Ever been a week or so without sleep
Seriously though ive got a map set up in my head and although i imagine that things will change on the day im sure it will work itself out

Oh and Ed i have put the mash off for another week or so only because it has heated up down here and i had a lager on the go that i have recently had to put in the fridge to keep the temp down, which i will also have to do with the pils so ill be waiting till that one is done, this will also give me more time to get everything prepped properly.
Thanks again everyone for the help

[chris.]

I do but I find the temp may drop off. The big watch for me is on the dairy thermometer and I aim to hit the temp rather aim for volume. My magic number is 153 or 154 deg F. I can live with a bit more or bit less of water in the mash

Dogger

Ditto Dogger. I don't worry too much about mash ratio's (anything in the range of 2.5-3L per Kg & I'm happy). I prefer to dough in with 2.5l per Kg & have a freshly boiled kettle of water & a jug of cold water on hand to adjust the mash temperature if needed.

I tend to find myself mashing around 66c (but lately have been cutting back to 63-4 trying for drier beers).
I agree with AC. 64-66 is a good place to start.

[lethaldog]

Well my wife isnt to happy with this forums influence on me
Since i started talking bout going into all grain i have purchased some copper, a 40l pot and just last night i went surfing on the net and found myself a pretty snazzy mill that i just ordered from the US and next thing on the list is a round esky as i still use the one i have i didnt want to dedicate it to brewing and i get the impression that the round ones are better, will hopefully grab this tomorrow and then its just some clear tubing from bunnings and a couple of hose clamps and i should be just about set.
I talked the missus round a bit though by telling her that i have now bassically halved my brewing costs so i could give her a bit more to spend on herself and shes all good with it now

[lethaldog]

Well i havent posted on this thread for a bit but here it is, the other day i made another inclusion to my equipment, a four ring burner, i just couldnt help myself and a few weeks back i bought the 20l round esky from bunnings, now im all set but unfortunately still waiting for my mill to arrive, should be here soon though..

Seems like off topic now but this thread started as a way to get ideas for wals pilsners which i did and after about 5 weeks in the bottle i have cracked one tonight and it is very very nice, Cheers greg

Cheers
Leigh

[Ed]

Excellent Leigh. You know once you get the first all grains going there's a likely chance you won't brew anything else

Suggestion: Finish all the other beers off before you start drinking the all grains. I couldn't stomach my extract brews after I switched to partials and then all grain. You've been warned

Cheers, Ed

[lethaldog]

damn ed now im gonna have to drink more to get rid of it all ( at least thats the way ill explain it to the missus) im gonna brew my pilsner first so it wont be for a good couple of months before ill even bottle that one, ive heard extended lagering is a good idea for them so that should give me a little time

[beerdrinker]

ive been convinced by these corruptors on here too am due for my first ag this week!!! cost a little more than i expected but im a fussy bastard

[Ed]

I start drinking the brews after a week or 2 in the bottle. They are just getting really good when their gone. I just go 2 weeks @ ferment temp, 1 week @ 0 to 5C, 1 week to prime in the bottle, back to fridge for lagering or drinking If you can wait for lagering, good for you guys. Me, I get thirsty.

Cheers, Ed