lethaldog wrote:They do fit as they are made usually by the same company and yes sediment reducers do fit i have two with that exact setup
Awesome . Those taps are as cheap as chips.
Sometimes you just cant get that last little bit of crap out of tap.....pay a buck fifty....new one.
I am going to get three of these "water holders" so that I can add hops for aroma and rack into them, if I choose to. That way I am not shuffling around the three brew kegs when I choose to rack.
Cheers Lethal
Greg
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
lethaldog wrote:They do fit as they are made usually by the same company and yes sediment reducers do fit i have two with that exact setup
Awesome . Those taps are as cheap as chips.
Sometimes you just cant get that last little bit of crap out of tap.....pay a buck fifty....new one.
I am going to get three of these "water holders" so that I can add hops for aroma and rack into them, if I choose to. That way I am not shuffling around the three brew kegs when I choose to rack.
Cheers Lethal
Greg
Yeah they are pittance and i think you will find that they are the same as the ones on most fermenters, and you got an even better bargain cos i think they were $1.98 at BigW how much were the water containers(20l) at bunnings?
Cracked grains have a minimum shelf life of 6 months, You can go as long as a year if you look after them.
I was discussing with someone in the tropic areas that it may be shorter because of the humidity but yeh, for the most part you can blow through a 25 kg bag of grains before they are done.
I have my my 25 kg bag cracked at the alarming price of 5 dollars a bag, Hell of a deal I think
Dogger
How long does uncracked grain last dogger as ive heard mixed reports, and can you store it just say in a bin or something ( like you would with horse food or something of the like) out of the fridge or does it have to be kept cool?
Oh and dogger, Grumpys will crack grain for you for nicks and i think the grain and grape does to, not sure what the postage would be like for ya though
lethaldog wrote:They do fit as they are made usually by the same company and yes sediment reducers do fit i have two with that exact setup
Awesome . Those taps are as cheap as chips.
Sometimes you just cant get that last little bit of crap out of tap.....pay a buck fifty....new one.
I am going to get three of these "water holders" so that I can add hops for aroma and rack into them, if I choose to. That way I am not shuffling around the three brew kegs when I choose to rack.
Cheers Lethal
Greg
Yeah they are pittance and i think you will find that they are the same as the ones on most fermenters, and you got an even better bargain cos i think they were $1.98 at BigW how much were the water containers(20l) at bunnings?
16 to 17 Dollars Max .........+ the 1.50 tap.
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
lethaldog wrote:
Cheers Ed, i think i have this one sussed as i to have a couple of 15 litre pots that i could heat on the stove and like you say, use the 40 litre for the initial mash water, although it would be a pain i was also thinking that i could use 1 of the 15 litre pots to collect the first lot of wort and use the 40 litre for both the mash and sparge water, then once i have collected the first lot, whack in the sparge water and transfer the first lot into the big pot as well, would this work or is it a bit dodgy
Lethal, it would be too much messing around to transfer the wort from one vessel to another & you'd risk a lot of splashing. So I'd just go with using the 15 litre pot for the sparge water.
Beerdrinker32 wrote:
what do you guys think about the plastic pails with the element in them? am becoming obsessed with this ag thing Laughing hope the beers are tasty Exclamation
You mean those plastic buckets with the electric kettle elements? I had thought of doing mine like that but had second thoughts. Reckon it's dodgy. You can still use a plastic bucket, but I think it would be much safer with a portable immersion heater. I use a portable immersion heater for heating my mash/sparge water, it's brilliant but trips the power if too many other appliances are turned on.
Cheers, Ed
So the bartender says to the horse "Why the long face?"
Cheers again Ed, that was what i thought but just thought id ask just in case, i have 2 of the 15 litre pots so i could heat the volume of the sparge water in 1 go and just use the 40 litre for the mash water, ill try it this time then if its to much messin round ill just grab another pot down the track
one year susposedly, I would use a bin with a good seal on it
Oh, and I have no issues on paying an additional 5 bucks for 25 KG of Ready Mash. I think it is agreat deal.
I am not fond of the electrical elements for heating either. Although I have never used one I have heard of issues
Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
Cheers Dogger, i dont think ill have any trouble getting through it in a year so thats great, and seeing that the good grain stores are miles away from me i figured it would actually be cheaper to pick up a few sacks once every six months than paying for the postage prices so if i can store it in big bins then thats great, also i have made a manifold for the mash tun out of copper but today while i was at the hardware store i saw some of that braided hose and for the length i would need it was only like 8 bucks, my question is: which one would be better to use, or would they both produce pretty much the same results?
Also someone on here recently said to bath the chiller in white vinegar before you use it, does this need to be done every time or just once and would you need to dilute or just use as is?
Lethal, I personally would avoid the braid and go with your manifold.
Braid works fine to get you started, but a false bottom or copper manifold are far better.
I used to use braid but was getting seriously low efficiency, 54%.
After speaking with Mark and Keith the beer guy, they suggested using the manifold or false bottom. So I made myself a false bottom and my efficiency went up to 64%.
Cheers duane, how did you make your false bottom, im going to use the copper for the first one regardless of anything else and im sure it will be fine as Ed was the one who put me onto it and he certainly knows what hes on about, i have just seen the braided ones and was interested to know what the difference was more than anything else, Cant wait to try out the system but im thinking i might wait till my mill arrives which will probably be about three weeks, i dont like the idea of crushing 4.5 kg of grain by hand
Sounds like your setup is starting to reach a level of sophistication that only exists in my dreams I've had some shit going on in my life that's stopped my advance toward all grain for the moment, but all your questions are answered by Palmer, as usual!
lethaldog wrote:... Ed was the one who put me onto it and he certainly knows what hes on about...
Lethal, 90% of anything I've learnt came from Dogger
Cheers, Ed
Well in that case all i can say is thank god for you and the dogger man cos if it werent for you guys on this site i would have never considered AG.
Thanks for all the info