By all means add an extra 500g. You'll add alcohol and body, and also a bit of sweetness, which means that the finished beer will appear to be less bitter.
I wouldn't add more than the 500g though. If you like it with 500g and think it needs more you can always do it next time.
Oliver
Coopers Pale ale
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Chris
Yeast in boil
To Dogger Dan,
My good Canadian Mounty Mate.
You put any can supplied yeast into the boil as
firstly - It is crap yeast, and secondly it provides
nutrients for the good yeast which you should be
using such as Safale or liquid Wyeast etc. Speak
to any good brewer and they will confirm that for you.
Cheers
West Beach Brewery
My good Canadian Mounty Mate.
You put any can supplied yeast into the boil as
firstly - It is crap yeast, and secondly it provides
nutrients for the good yeast which you should be
using such as Safale or liquid Wyeast etc. Speak
to any good brewer and they will confirm that for you.
Cheers
West Beach Brewery
-
Chris
Coopers Pale Ale
Righto Chaps,
Warning to you all regards the Coopers Pale Ale
supplied yeast. Not only is it crap but it does not
fully ferment out all the sugars in the wort.
My second Coopers Pale Ale ended up with a secondary
infection. I left my wort in the fermenter for 2 weeks....
before bottling and paid the price. As the Coopers
yeast did not ferment out all the sugars, some rogue
bacteria got in and did the job instead.
Alright, my fault for not bottling sooner....but do yourself
a favour and use a good liquid yeast or at the least Safale.
That way you'll get all the sugars consumed quickly and
so help to prevent any secondary infections.
The beer tastes off....but drinkable. Does anyone know if
it will improve with ageing??
West Beach Brewery.
Warning to you all regards the Coopers Pale Ale
supplied yeast. Not only is it crap but it does not
fully ferment out all the sugars in the wort.
My second Coopers Pale Ale ended up with a secondary
infection. I left my wort in the fermenter for 2 weeks....
before bottling and paid the price. As the Coopers
yeast did not ferment out all the sugars, some rogue
bacteria got in and did the job instead.
Alright, my fault for not bottling sooner....but do yourself
a favour and use a good liquid yeast or at the least Safale.
That way you'll get all the sugars consumed quickly and
so help to prevent any secondary infections.
The beer tastes off....but drinkable. Does anyone know if
it will improve with ageing??
West Beach Brewery.
I should have read these posts before brewing my Coopers Pale Ale.
I tasted it the other night 2 weeks after bottling and to say the least it was unimpressive, not like the real thing in any way. A bit flat. No off flavours though. Next time will heed the advice here and use better yeast, perhaps not use the BE2 either. Still drink it though, but luckily I have enough stock of another brew to get through until it matures and hopefully gets better.
I tasted it the other night 2 weeks after bottling and to say the least it was unimpressive, not like the real thing in any way. A bit flat. No off flavours though. Next time will heed the advice here and use better yeast, perhaps not use the BE2 either. Still drink it though, but luckily I have enough stock of another brew to get through until it matures and hopefully gets better.
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Dogger Dan
- Posts: 3168
- Joined: Thursday Aug 26, 2004 10:43 am
- Location: Lucan, Ontario, Canada
Chris,
I have a Coopers which is fermenting out in two days. I have a White Labs which is still plugging after two weeks, in fact my skunked batches have been liquid yeasts because they don't start as cleanly as a Coopers dry yeast.
I will agree with the SAF Yeast being good, I have had great success with them and as a rule of thumb use them.
I also will not disagree with adding the dry yeast to the boil but I would suggest that if you are needing to add yeast neutrients to get a healthy fermentation something else is missing in your wort, ie you are using bottled or distilled water because you shouldn't need to add the neutrients to get a good fermentation from a dry yeast as they are already supplied (hence why you are pitching it in the boil)
Perhaps rather than the yeast not being able to digest the sugars in your wort, Perhaps the fermentation stuck?
The complexities revolving around yeast are great and I can see it is up to personel preference and experience.
For all the newbies who have sudden paranoia from this thread, if you used the Coopers Yeast it will be fine, using SAF Yeasts are better.
Dogger
I have a Coopers which is fermenting out in two days. I have a White Labs which is still plugging after two weeks, in fact my skunked batches have been liquid yeasts because they don't start as cleanly as a Coopers dry yeast.
I will agree with the SAF Yeast being good, I have had great success with them and as a rule of thumb use them.
I also will not disagree with adding the dry yeast to the boil but I would suggest that if you are needing to add yeast neutrients to get a healthy fermentation something else is missing in your wort, ie you are using bottled or distilled water because you shouldn't need to add the neutrients to get a good fermentation from a dry yeast as they are already supplied (hence why you are pitching it in the boil)
Perhaps rather than the yeast not being able to digest the sugars in your wort, Perhaps the fermentation stuck?
The complexities revolving around yeast are great and I can see it is up to personel preference and experience.
For all the newbies who have sudden paranoia from this thread, if you used the Coopers Yeast it will be fine, using SAF Yeasts are better.
Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
Oliver - i tried one with a recultured coopers pale yeast. didn't quite goes as planned.. i suspect i may have botched the culturing 
altho the yeast didn't taste too bad before pitching. i'll leave this one for 3 months before ditching tho..
i'm loving this kit at the moment.. very good for messing around with. & usually gives good results.. & simple as.. did 1 recently with 1kg lme, 20g of cascade hops (boiled for 20min), 150g of crystal, & 2nd gen. wp001 - very pleasant..
altho the yeast didn't taste too bad before pitching. i'll leave this one for 3 months before ditching tho..i'm loving this kit at the moment.. very good for messing around with. & usually gives good results.. & simple as.. did 1 recently with 1kg lme, 20g of cascade hops (boiled for 20min), 150g of crystal, & 2nd gen. wp001 - very pleasant..
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Guest
Hey Chris,
you would think that Coopers Brewery probably know a thing or two about yeast. If they have put a brew out on the market that claims to imitate their pale ale would they supply second rate yeast or the best available?
As with all dry yeast I would smell the contents of the sachet to make sure it doesn't smell off and make a starter before pitching.
While you are pointing your finger at the yeast you should look at the three fingers pointing back at yourself...sounds like you have some issues with cleanliness and sanitisation.
you would think that Coopers Brewery probably know a thing or two about yeast. If they have put a brew out on the market that claims to imitate their pale ale would they supply second rate yeast or the best available?
As with all dry yeast I would smell the contents of the sachet to make sure it doesn't smell off and make a starter before pitching.
While you are pointing your finger at the yeast you should look at the three fingers pointing back at yourself...sounds like you have some issues with cleanliness and sanitisation.
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Dogger Dan
- Posts: 3168
- Joined: Thursday Aug 26, 2004 10:43 am
- Location: Lucan, Ontario, Canada
Guys,
I have tried to culture about 6 Coopers Sparkling Ale to no avail.
I swear it is irradiated when it leaves the country and the yeast is dead as doornail.
Dogger
I have tried to culture about 6 Coopers Sparkling Ale to no avail.
I swear it is irradiated when it leaves the country and the yeast is dead as doornail.
Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
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Dogger Dan
- Posts: 3168
- Joined: Thursday Aug 26, 2004 10:43 am
- Location: Lucan, Ontario, Canada
Chris,
Coopers Pale is my staple beer - the one I always have available. Have not had one person with a negative comment re taste and I'm now up to 7 brews. I still play with other kits and flavours but at the moment at least cannot fault the Pale, made as suggested on the kit. Side by side my brew easily outshines the store-bought Pale
This is not an ad. Cheers
Coopers Pale is my staple beer - the one I always have available. Have not had one person with a negative comment re taste and I'm now up to 7 brews. I still play with other kits and flavours but at the moment at least cannot fault the Pale, made as suggested on the kit. Side by side my brew easily outshines the store-bought Pale
This is not an ad. Cheers
Life is too short to drink crap
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Guest
If you sanitised your spoon, you will have probably not stuffed anything up.
In Homebrewing Vol 1 by Al Korzonas a passage refers to 'rousing' the yeast. This involves mixing settled yeast back into suspension. I have not had any problems doing this, but I swirl the bucket without taking the lid off.
Cheers,
Greg.
In Homebrewing Vol 1 by Al Korzonas a passage refers to 'rousing' the yeast. This involves mixing settled yeast back into suspension. I have not had any problems doing this, but I swirl the bucket without taking the lid off.
Cheers,
Greg.
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Dogger Dan
- Posts: 3168
- Joined: Thursday Aug 26, 2004 10:43 am
- Location: Lucan, Ontario, Canada
Actually,
Don't get to concerned about inducing the O2 either, It may be required to get the fermentation going again and it will be stripped out by the CO2 during fermentation. The real time to worry about adding O2 is when it is hot as that is when you can really oxidize your wort.
I guess we are saying, don't worry, it will be fine
Dogger
Don't get to concerned about inducing the O2 either, It may be required to get the fermentation going again and it will be stripped out by the CO2 during fermentation. The real time to worry about adding O2 is when it is hot as that is when you can really oxidize your wort.
I guess we are saying, don't worry, it will be fine
Dogger
"Listening to someone who brews their own beer is like listening to a religous fanatic talk about the day he saw the light" Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette
Dont know if you got a response to this one oliver - but I have put a number down with the yeast cultured from a Coopers Pale Stubby. I have success with the stubbies about 50 % of the time. Makes a great difference to the end product and I cant fault it. I enjoy the homebrew version to the bought stuff now as I add Light Malt and Honey just because, well hell, why not. All brewed during summer too with temps at about 28 the whole time - no probs. Keen to try a winter temp version.Oliver wrote:Anyone tried it with a yeast cultured from a bottle of Cooper's Pale Ale?
Oliver
Question ref the honey - when I bottle I squeeze ever muddy drop from the fermenter and find that these bottles are often the best. They certainly pack most of the honey overtones... Why? Dunno - just the sedimentary left over honey I guess.
or you can rack to secondary, when transfering you'll get some activity going if there is anything left to ferment. Not to mention you leave the trub behind and end up with a clearer beer.gregb wrote: 'rousing' the yeast. This involves mixing settled yeast back into suspension. I have not had any problems doing this, but I swirl the bucket without taking the lid off.