First batch is a brewin'

[atregent]

My lovely girlfriend got me a kit for christmas, which is even more impressive (to me, at least) given that she got it from a homebrew shop and not k-mart!

It's a BrewCraft kit and came with a can of Munich Lager, which is, I'm assuming a reasonably safe first timer beer? I have to admit though, I was surprised to find the can full of a thick liquid. For some reason I thought it would be a powder.

So now it's all set up and bubbling away in the study, sitting on last years christmas present, a seed raising heating pad, to keep it at about 22 degrees (which I'm sure isn't necessary). The top of the air lock is even starting to smell beery (the GF doesn't share the same excitment as me about the smell though...).

The only thing I didn't do was take an OG reading, which, I think, just means I wont be able to make a % alcohol measurement. Never mind, next time.

I'm already planning my next brew, either a Little Creatures Pale Ale, James Squire Pale Ale, or Beez Neez (perhaps I need to get a few more fermenters...)

Really looking forward to my first glass of icy cold home made beer!

[Pale_Ale]

Only in Melbourne or Hobart would you need a heating pad to keep it warm at this time of year

Seriously though keep it as cool as possible. If it is an ale yeast it 16-18 is best, lager around 8C.

For your next recipe take a look in the recipe section, the guys here have some excellent recipes ranging in difficulty.

Oh, and when you do bottle your first beer don't drink it all at once - I've found my most of my beer is optimum at the 3 - 6 month mark and time is the biggest improvement you can make in brewing.

[Oliver]

atregent, welcome.

I agree with Pale on the temperature thing. Ideally keep it at 18C or so for an ale, and around 10C for a lager (although being summer and all this is probably not possible).

From reading posts on this forum and information elsewhere, you'll realise that just because a beer kit is called a lager, it doesn't necessarily mean it comes with a lager yeast. Coopers Lager is a case in point: it actually comes with an ale yeast. This is the case with most "lagers", although not exclusively so.

Read up and you'll learn about the different tastes and characteristics that different yeasts impart.

Happy brewing.

Cheers,

Oliver

[Beau]

It's a BrewCraft kit and came with a can of Munich Lager, which is, I'm assuming a reasonably safe first timer beer? I have to admit though, I was surprised to find the can full of a thick liquid. For some reason I thought it would be a powder.

My first brew was a Brewcraft Munich Lager and I must say I was very impressed. I was also surprised to find a mass of black goo in the tin, I had always assumed powder for some reason too

[Pale_Ale]

Ah, well for those of us who started with a Coopers Home Brew Kit, Paul Mercurio educates us on the tin situation.

[atregent]

I think it's almost done! The 'blub' rate has dropped right down to 1 every couple of minutes or so.

The yeast pack that came with the tin didn't have any special markings on it, just a non-descript foil sachet. I'm assuming it was nothing special.

The temperature in the fermenter is a constant 22 degrees, which, from what I have been reading and what you have suggested, is a bit high. I was working on the theory that a constant temperature would be better which is why I put it on the heat pad, but then again, I'm new to all this (and I love gadgets...)

So I'm off to the homebrew shop on the weekend to get some bottles. Thinking about 375ml PET stubbies, since I only usually drink one of them at a time.

I'm guessing that I just need to wait for the airlock to stop bubbling before I bottle, or should I leave it in the fermenter for a while to let it settle?

[KEG]

do you have a hydrometer? if not, it'd be a great idea to get one.

take a measurement today, then another tomorrow. if the SG hasn't changed, it's ready to prime and bottle (or most likely, bottle and prime hehe).

when you use the hydrometer, give it a spin/twirl in the tube to dislodge any CO2 bubbles sticking to it - they'll give you a false reading.

cheers,
chris

[buscador]

The temperature in the fermenter is a constant 22 degrees, which, from what I have been reading and what you have suggested, is a bit high. I was working on the theory that a constant temperature would be better which is why I put it on the heat pad, but then again, I'm new to all this (and I love gadgets...)

So I'm off to the homebrew shop on the weekend to get some bottles. Thinking about 375ml PET stubbies, since I only usually drink one of them at a time.

I'm guessing that I just need to wait for the airlock to stop bubbling before I bottle, or should I leave it in the fermenter for a while to let it settle?

as a beginner myself, and on my 3rd brew (which is bubblin away ) ive had the fermenter in the extra room and it has stayed constant at 22 degrees the last 3 days without any heat (also in Melb)

i also dont think you will find and PET 375 ml
ive only found 740 ml
on my first two brews i let the bubbles stop
then waited another full day just in case
my first brew tastes great
and my second is my new year sampling!

have you heard of the grain n grape HBS
http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/

cheers
b

[atregent]

I got a hydrometer in the kit, I just need something to use it in. The only thing I have that's tall enough is a tall glass, which would hold a fair bit of of my precious, precious beer.

Should I bottle it this weekend (provided the SG is stable), or let it settle for extra week? Or do I go all out and get a second fermenter and rack it?

While we're on the subject of going all out, which I have a tendency to do when I get into a hobby, is it worth getting a filter? There's one on eBay for about $60. And if so, at what stage would I use it?

So many questions, so many bits and pieces to buy..

The kit came from BrewCraft in Richmond, so I was going to make that my first stop. I've seen the Grain and Grape web site, they have a lot of gadgets there (which is a dangerous thing for me!)

[rwh]

Just bottle it. If it's been in there for more than 7 days, you'll pretty much be right for most ales.

Don't get the filter till you're significantly more experienced. Once you filter the beer you can't naturally bottle prime. Spend your money on other gadgets. There are plenty to choose from.

[Emo]

I've found that the brews that I've left for at least 2 weeks in the fermenter have been better than the shorter period ones.

Can you get 375ml PET bottles? I've only ever seen the full size ones.

I'd say that the Brewcraft kit came with an ale yeast so you should be OK for temperature but I wouldn't have artificially heated it.

I'm drinking a Brewcraft Beez Neez clone at the moment and I can tell you, it's pretty good.

[atregent]

Since I only started it on boxing day, I might leave it till next weekend to bottle then. Do you think it'll be ready for an Australia Day sampling?

I was only assuming I could get PET bottles in stubby size, but if I have to drink a longneck at a time, then I guess that's a sacrifice I'll have to make!

I think the Beez Neez is going to be the next one I tackle, I've only had it a couple of times, but quite liked it, and I haven't seen it around much.

[Tickstar]

Hi atregent,

If you're after 740ml PET have a look at BIG W for the coopers ones. I picked mine up on special for $9 a box. ususally they're not much more when not on special, but cheaper than most HB shops.

If you want to bottle into 375 ml bottles, try using empty carlton draught or similar. I get my mates to save their carlton draught bottles and lids for me. I soak 'em in Napisan, rinse and dry, then use no-rinse sanitiser before I bottle. Just fill and screw the lid back on. works a treat. And my mates don't mind coz they bet free beer when they come round

Happy brewing!

[buscador]

so the carlton bottles seal back up with just the twist off?

[morgs]

so the carlton bottles seal back up with just the twist off?

I've seen a few people post on here that swear by doing it this way, Haven't tried it myself yet but will do so soon just for fun.

[buscador]

ive been told that the only bottles you can use are the non-twist offs to get the seal correct on te bottle

but let me know how goes?
b

[Tickstar]

so the carlton bottles seal back up with just the twist off?

They sure do. Have done 4 cases worth so far and not had 1 dud bottle. When screwing cap back on get one of those rubber jar opener gripper things and just screw them back on firmly. When they carbonate I think the pressure seals them even further. Sometimes I can't screw the lid off when it's time to drink and have to use a scab lifter to open.

Just remember to sterilise the lids before you use them.

[buscador]

do you need to sterilise pet bottle tops before reusing
ive been rinsing them after opening a bottle and letting dry
and thought id just rinse them agiin before use
any more than this? as i see the water gets below the plastic and needs a time to dry
b

[rwh]

You can recap any beer bottles using a bottle capper and caps from your HBS. You should sanitise all bottles (and anything that comes into contact with the beer). The best thing to use is Idophor solution, again available from your HBS.

[atregent]

Just got back from big w with a couple of boxes of bottles, cheapest I've seen them too, $11.32. They also have the coopers kits on special for $59.

They're a bit smaller than I imagined them to be, I don't think it'll be a struggle to polish one or two off in a sitting.

Before I use them do I just give them, and the lids, a rinse out with the brewshield sanitiser that came with my kit?