Sparkling starter

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gibbocore
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Sparkling starter

Post by gibbocore »

G'day,

Does anyone ever have any dramas making a coopers sparkling ale starter yeast? I've tried it on two bottles now, albiet i'm enjoying drinking a longy of sparkling, i'd rather be drinking my keg of coopers sparkling.

How important are tempuratures? Can i kill all the dormant yeast in the bottle by putting water in that's to hot? Is the amount of beer left in the bottle critical? What are others tips for making a cooper starter?
Pale_Ale
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Post by Pale_Ale »

Firstly, use a Pale Ale starter. It's the same yeast and Pale Ale is the best beer to culture yeast from due to the pale colour and lower alc content.

If you're having problems, firstly I assume you are pouring off the beer into a glass not drinking from the bottle? Secondly try using a clear container like a jam jar or a pet bottle so you can see what's going on.

The yeast can die at higher temps but normally that's into the 40s. The yeast also don't like temperature shock so if they are sitting at 4C and you pour in 35C water, that's not going to help. Cool the boiled wort by putting the saucepan in the sink, and leave approx 2cm of beer in the bottom.
Coopers.
gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

cheers PA, i'm pouring it into a g;ass very carefully making sure that i stop pouring once i get disturbed sediment start pouring out. i think i'll use the clear pet bottle method so i can see what's going on, i'm also using around 250mls of water and a heaped tablespoon of DLM boiling it up and adding that once cooled to around 25 deg. pouring it into the bottle and plugging it with a sterilised bung/airlock. Should this be working?
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

That sounds fine. I normally do it with 2 or 3 longnecks of pale, and don't see activity for 24-48 hours. But once it gets going it really gets going.
w00t!
anthony
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Post by anthony »

rwh wrote:That sounds fine. I normally do it with 2 or 3 longnecks of pale, and don't see activity for 24-48 hours. But once it gets going it really gets going.
Sounds like a great excuse to drink 3 longnecks :P
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

Haha yeah, bring a friend. :)
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gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

ok, 24 hours have passed since i boiled 300ml of water with a big tablespoon of LDM, poured off the beer from 2 stubbies of pale ale, poured the murky goodness of the two stubbis into a sterilised PET bottle, cooled the malt, poured it into the bottle, fitted the sterilised bung and airlock and still no action. Is it fair to assume i just have to keep waiting? And when should i just go buy some safale?
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

Keep waiting. Go buy the safale if you have no action by 72 hours.
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gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

cheers, rwh. I have some krausen (sp?) inthe starter bottle now, only about a centermeter, but i'm thinking of brewing and pitching anyway and starting another starter with 2 longnecks this time to increase yeast productivity incase that one doesnt take off, is this a risky idea? I'm pretty insanely clean when i brew i dont touch anything without gloves and once touched i wont use it unless i've given it a fresh santitization.
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

Sounds like you have a good starter there, I'd just brew and use that starter. If you're really worried about the yeast population, you could step it up a couple of times. Procedure:

- let the starter completely ferment out, and the yeast to settle
- pour off the liquid from the top
- create a new starter using the slurry from the first one

Each time you step it up you will increase the viable yeast population. However, in my experience the Coopers yeast is a very strong yeast, so I'd probably just brew and pitch the starter that you have. It'll take off like a rocket, trust me.
w00t!
gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

awesome, cheers, i'm gonna get boiling!

thanks again mate.
chris.
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Post by chris. »

Pale_Ale wrote:Firstly, use a Pale Ale starter. It's the same yeast and Pale Ale is the best beer to culture yeast from due to the pale colour and lower alc content.
I agree. Another option is the Mild Ale. Even less alcohol.
Last edited by chris. on Thursday Oct 11, 2007 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Link
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Post by Link »

Great. Just read this as I've finished boiling up my LDME and I'm halway through my second longneck of Sparkling to harvest the yeast.

Now I'm going to have to switch to Pale.

Bugger. :shock: :lol:
Beers are friends, not food.
Pale_Ale
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Post by Pale_Ale »

chris. wrote:
Pale_Ale wrote:Firstly, use a Pale Ale starter. It's the same yeast and Pale Ale is the best beer to culture yeast from due to the pale colour and lower alc content.
I agree. Another option is the Mild Ale. Even less alcohol.
Never thought of that! I forgot about Mild :lol:
Coopers.
gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

Just incase anyone else wanted to know, i pitched the casualy fermenting starter into the wort and it went nuts in about 3-4 hours. Currently bubbling away like mad.
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

Yeah the Coopers yeasts are just nuts. Both the dried and recultured.
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gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

is the dried one the same as the recultured one?
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

Nope. The dried one is related to the cultured up one (the one they use in their own brewery), but it's not the same. I believe this is because they can't dry their commercial strain effectively. This is quite common, and is the reason there is so much more variety available in liquid form than dry.
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gibbocore
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Post by gibbocore »

ahh i see, cheers for that!
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