Yeast & Firmentation & Hydrometer
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Yeast & Firmentation & Hydrometer
Hi, need some advice!, I've sprinkled the yeast over the wort then sealed the lid, Is this enough to start fermentation proccess??...
P.s Could you give me some advice, I did'nt take a hydrometer reading at the start of the brewing process, So when & how often should I do this now?.
Thank You Sean...
P.s Could you give me some advice, I did'nt take a hydrometer reading at the start of the brewing process, So when & how often should I do this now?.
Thank You Sean...
Last edited by aussie sean on Thursday Sep 06, 2007 12:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
who dare's win's
Re: Yeast & Firmentation
Yep.aussie sean wrote:Hi, need some advice!, I've sprinkled the yeast over the wort then sealed the lid, Is this enough to start fermentation proccess??...
Sounds like you have a gas leak, i.e. the CO2 is escaping from the fermenter some other way that through the airlock. It's nothing to be concerned about, just leave it for 7 days or so and then you can bottle. You can confirm that it's ready to bottle if you have a hydrometer. The same reading 24 hours apart indicates complete fermentation.P.S 3 day's and still no bubble's in the airlock, But do have condonsation & froth(wort), and a strong smell of larger!.
Note though, that the beer conditions better in the fermenter, so I often leave my beers for two weeks before I bottle them. Note also that the term for the froth on top of beer is actually krausen, a German word that is pronounced "kroysen". Also, it's lager, not larger.


w00t!
Sounds like a valid question to me.
sean, that should be all you need to do to get it going. The airlock bubbling is an unreliable method for determining if fermentation is occuring. Condensation on the lid, and brown foamy stuff on the beer surface tend to be better indicators. The only real way to tell though, is to check your hydrometer readings. If you don't have one, it's well worth getting one.
sean, that should be all you need to do to get it going. The airlock bubbling is an unreliable method for determining if fermentation is occuring. Condensation on the lid, and brown foamy stuff on the beer surface tend to be better indicators. The only real way to tell though, is to check your hydrometer readings. If you don't have one, it's well worth getting one.
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Yeah he's got a hydrometer.....
Do the hydrometer when the fermenter is full at the start BEFORE you pitch the yeast. This will give you the SG or Starting Gravity take it again after say 4 days, then 5 then 6 and when the reading has steadied, you can bottle, or rack (Putting in another fermenter for a week) if you are into that .
You can then calculate the % of your brew and add .5% for the bottle conditioning sugar/dex/malt.
Post from gregb a while ago
Before the yeast is pitched the wort has a whole bunch of dissolved sugars in it and is therefore more dense. A hydrometer will give a reading of say 1040 or so or more. This is the Original Gravity, or OG.
After fermentation the sugars have been converted by the yeast to alcohol which is less dense than water and the overall gravity of the liquid is less. This is the Final Gravity or FG. I have had with different batches from 999 to 1026. It will vary with ingredients and conditions the important point is that it stabilises.
To calculate alcohol content: (OG - FG)/7.46 + 0.02
The 0.02 represents the alcohol from the priming sugar. I have seen numbers between 0.02 & 0.05.
Cheers,
Greg
Cheers
Boonie
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
Give me a flying headbutt.......
Kevinlis, I see what you about now - Sean has opened basically the SAME question here:Kevnlis wrote:Spam?
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... php?t=6738
Why open more than one thread of the SAME question?
"Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer." - Dave Barry.
Yeah sorry, my bad. I think he is just lacking in forum skills a bit 
His original post here did not contain any info about hydrometers in the begining, he then edited this one to include that and omited some of the original info and then started a new thread, so it looked a bit strange and I thought it may have been spam, but he appears to be genuine even if he doesn't reply to any of the threads he starts except to deny the post is spam

His original post here did not contain any info about hydrometers in the begining, he then edited this one to include that and omited some of the original info and then started a new thread, so it looked a bit strange and I thought it may have been spam, but he appears to be genuine even if he doesn't reply to any of the threads he starts except to deny the post is spam

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Thank you all..
Yes i am new to this, And thank you all 4 yor advice!!..
Thank's Sean...
Thank's Sean...
who dare's win's