2ND BREW FLAT ??
2ND BREW FLAT ??
Just did my 2nd lager brew and it's come out flat ( Zero life ), This time I used enhancer 1 istead of suger, I'm thinking this is the cause, What else could it be ??, If some one has got an idea please let me know.
P.S It smell's and taste fine, just flat.
Thank you UFC...
P.S It smell's and taste fine, just flat.
Thank you UFC...
Just another thought, are the plastic bottles new or used?
If they are used ones, and if you haven't removed the security rings from the old caps, you may not get a good seal if you put new caps onto the the bottles.
You have to remove those rings first. When you screw new caps on with their own security ring, it will feel like you have fully screwed them on, but they do not seal properly in that case, as they will not screw down far enough.
Sorry about the grammer, it's a bit twisted, but I hope you know what I mean.
If they are used ones, and if you haven't removed the security rings from the old caps, you may not get a good seal if you put new caps onto the the bottles.
You have to remove those rings first. When you screw new caps on with their own security ring, it will feel like you have fully screwed them on, but they do not seal properly in that case, as they will not screw down far enough.
Sorry about the grammer, it's a bit twisted, but I hope you know what I mean.
I find that when i used carbonation drops, i had to wait longer that what i do now for bulk priming. becuase the carbonation drops are effectively a large chunk of sugar, the yeast need to wait for that to dissolve fully before you get effective carbonation. Depending on the temperature at which you store the beer, this can take up to 3-4 weeks. Because the sugar you use in bulk priming is dissolved, when you bottle, the yeast is going to need alot less time to carbonate the bottle as the sugar does not need to dissolve in the bottle, plus the sugar is distributed evenly throughout the bottle rather than a big chunk at the bottom of the bottle.
maybe you could prime the bottle with dextrose instead of carbonation drop to see whether that decreases the time needed for carbonation..
and if that doesnt help, it could be the seals like what the others suggest.
maybe you could prime the bottle with dextrose instead of carbonation drop to see whether that decreases the time needed for carbonation..
and if that doesnt help, it could be the seals like what the others suggest.

I freely admit that I was Very Very Drunk....
"They speak of my drinking, but never consider my thirst."
Thank's
Thank's good advice.James L wrote:I find that when i used carbonation drops, i had to wait longer that what i do now for bulk priming. becuase the carbonation drops are effectively a large chunk of sugar, the yeast need to wait for that to dissolve fully before you get effective carbonation. Depending on the temperature at which you store the beer, this can take up to 3-4 weeks. Because the sugar you use in bulk priming is dissolved, when you bottle, the yeast is going to need alot less time to carbonate the bottle as the sugar does not need to dissolve in the bottle, plus the sugar is distributed evenly throughout the bottle rather than a big chunk at the bottom of the bottle.
maybe you could prime the bottle with dextrose instead of carbonation drop to see whether that decreases the time needed for carbonation..
and if that doesnt help, it could be the seals like what the others suggest.
I've found that carbonation drops often require two "shakes" to dissolve and distribute through the beer properly. After priming and capping, I give each bottle a quick shake. The next day after bottling (and once the carbo drop has dissolved), I give each bottle another shake. This will assist in distributing the sugar solution through the brew more thoroughly.
If I don't do this, I've noticed that even after 3 weeks the beer can be a bit sweet and rather on the flat side. If I give the bottles a late shake at this stage, sometimes I can even see the denser sugar solution "rippling" through the brew. Within a few days after this the beer is fresh and properly carbed, with no residual sweetness.
If I don't do this, I've noticed that even after 3 weeks the beer can be a bit sweet and rather on the flat side. If I give the bottles a late shake at this stage, sometimes I can even see the denser sugar solution "rippling" through the brew. Within a few days after this the beer is fresh and properly carbed, with no residual sweetness.
Thank's
good advice, i'll try it.Lachy wrote:I've found that carbonation drops often require two "shakes" to dissolve and distribute through the beer properly. After priming and capping, I give each bottle a quick shake. The next day after bottling (and once the carbo drop has dissolved), I give each bottle another shake. This will assist in distributing the sugar solution through the brew more thoroughly.
If I don't do this, I've noticed that even after 3 weeks the beer can be a bit sweet and rather on the flat side. If I give the bottles a late shake at this stage, sometimes I can even see the denser sugar solution "rippling" through the brew. Within a few days after this the beer is fresh and properly carbed, with no residual sweetness.
Not shaking might have something to do with dissolving the oxygen from the headspace of the bottle. According to Palmer's How to Brew, 3rd ed., only 30% of the oxygen in the headspace is used by the yeast during bottle conditioning; the other 70% remains to oxidise the beer (which is important for some styles of beer apparently).
I don't know exactly why shaking would be bad, as the oxygen will dissolve in the beer eventually anyway. All I know is that it's the prevailing advice not to shake. Perhaps this is one of those advices that is unfounded but keeps getting propagated?
I don't know exactly why shaking would be bad, as the oxygen will dissolve in the beer eventually anyway. All I know is that it's the prevailing advice not to shake. Perhaps this is one of those advices that is unfounded but keeps getting propagated?
w00t!
Hey UFC,
Just a thought, were the PET bottle hard or soft. If they were hard usually after 4-6 days or so they may not have enought carbonation still. The other thing is I have some VB scooner glasses that make beer flat. They have been in a dishwasher a thousand times. I took my 1 week in the bottle AG IPA, which was flat as a tac in my VB glasses to my nieghboor (can't spell, just had a tallie of my IPA 6.4%), who tiped it into his pilsner glasses and it was fine.
Glasses make a huge contribution to bad beer diagnostics.
Pissed Jub
Just a thought, were the PET bottle hard or soft. If they were hard usually after 4-6 days or so they may not have enought carbonation still. The other thing is I have some VB scooner glasses that make beer flat. They have been in a dishwasher a thousand times. I took my 1 week in the bottle AG IPA, which was flat as a tac in my VB glasses to my nieghboor (can't spell, just had a tallie of my IPA 6.4%), who tiped it into his pilsner glasses and it was fine.
Glasses make a huge contribution to bad beer diagnostics.
Pissed Jub
Time and a warmer environment (18+) is good, depending of type of yeast of course, for the yeast to grow.
I've had some Coopers GB with no bubbles after 2 weeks. Shook them and left in cupboard with Light Globe for a week. They were fully carbed after that.
Just remember though, don't shake more than twice, cause more than 2 shakes is a wa*k
Cheers
Boonie
I've had some Coopers GB with no bubbles after 2 weeks. Shook them and left in cupboard with Light Globe for a week. They were fully carbed after that.
Just remember though, don't shake more than twice, cause more than 2 shakes is a wa*k


Cheers
Boonie
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
Give me a flying headbutt.......
just a tip on the oxygen in the headspace, when I bottle I place the caps ontop of the bottles but do not seal them for around 10 mins. This allows the co2 to come out of solution and occupy the headspace, thus eliminating the oxygen. I have no problem with carbonation occurring using this method. i.e. i don't think the yeast need any more oxygen to get through the priming sugar.
That is exactly what I do. As I fill my bottles, I place a crown seal on them and put them aside. When they are all filled, only then do I get the capper, and seal them in the order I bottled them. Never had a bottle bomb for 30+ years, and all of my brews have carbed up well.collapoo wrote:just a tip on the oxygen in the headspace, when I bottle I place the caps ontop of the bottles but do not seal them for around 10 mins. This allows the co2 to come out of solution and occupy the headspace, thus eliminating the oxygen. I have no problem with carbonation occurring using this method. i.e. i don't think the yeast need any more oxygen to get through the priming sugar.