Malt settling in bottom of wort

[kiwifirst]

Hi all,
Its been 4 years since I brewed. Been in the US and now have a taste for American Pale Ales.
So started a kit on the weekend. ESB American PA, since it was the first for 4 years and I have more kids than i did on my last brew, I thought I would keep it simple. So just used the kit. I will add some dry hops later, but I digress.
Anyway, the day was warmer than I expected and so the wort sat for about 6 hours before I pitched the yeast, which I had hydrated in a jug.
This morning, I see a lot of activity on the surface, nothing happening int he airlock, but I assume that is because its a 30l fermenter and there is a lot more space to fill before the pressure starts working on the airlock.
Anyway...my question, the bottom 125mm of the barrel looks a lot darker than the rest, its like the malt has settled somewhat. Now that I am in the first day of activity, should I risk opening and giving it a stir? I didn't stir when I pitched the yeast last night. So wondering about aeration and the malt separating.

[warra48]

I wouldn't stir it.

Instead, just tiwst your fermenter from side to side to agitate the contents, and then gently swirl the contents without aerating it.

I'm sure you'll be OK. If you have activity on the surface, fermentation is obviously underway. The yeast will find its way to the sugars, and will get through it all in time.
Airlocks are a notoriously unreliable way to check on fermentation. CO2 has a tendency to find other and easier ways out, unless you can guarantee a gastight fir between lid and fermenter.
I don't use airlocks these days, just cover the fermenter with clingwrap, and use the rubber seal from the lid to hold it in place.

[kiwifirst]

Thanks for that.
I gave it the swirl and twirl. I am very loathe to lift the lid this early. Hate to have my first one go off.
I'll stick with it and see how it ferments out. I would imagine that the yeast will get down and start work on the malt. I was surprised how long it took to cool, the humidity was high yesterday and it took about 6 hours to get from 30c to 26c. It is down to 24c now.

Now I have to make the 'to rack or not to rack' decision. I only have the one plastic fermenter but do have a glass one. But I always worry about getting it back from glass to plastic for bottling. Aeration and infection.

[warra48]

If this is your first brew, I wouldn't worry about complicating things and racking anything.

Just leave it for two weeks in your primary fermenter, and then bottle or keg it.

In my opinion (others might and will disagree), don't bother racking unless you have a specific reason for doing so.
I rack on rare occasions, but only when the particular brew warrants it. I'll rack TL's Pikantus clone for cold conditioning, and I'm currently lagering a BoPils, but in both cases there is a very good reason for doing it.

For your first few brews, keep it simple, and keep down any chances of introducing nasties or oxidation into your beer.
After all, you don't start off an athlete by jumping hurdles without teaching them how to run first.

[kiwifirst]

Not exactly my first brew, but first in a while.
Does your advice on not racking spread to bulk priming too? The last batches I made before my break from brewing I was very unhappy with over gassing, probably the type of bottles and difference in volume. since this is a APA, i dont really want it to gassy, so was thinking of going to 1/2 teaspoon per bottle, or what ever the equivalent that would be based on the amount in the wort.
So if I am not racking, do you recommend pouring a pre-dissolved amount into the wort prior to bottling? Is that enough to get the sugars throughout the beer?
Our are you a prime the bottle type of person.

[Zuma]

http://oz.craftbrewer.org/Library/Metho ... uide.shtml

[kiwifirst]

Thanks Zuma,
Interesting. The part that has me concerned is the temperature. we had a couple of warm days so its been sitting about 25, even up to 26 yesterday before I put it in the sink to cool a bit.
Obviously I am going to need to rack to do this. I don't want to throw it in the fermenter before bottling and stir up the yeast cake.

So I'd like to ask:

What difference will I see in doing the bulk prime when racking compared to just adding say 2/3rd teaspoon to each bottle.

[warra48]

Whether you bulk prime, or prime individual bottles, ultimately they'll all carbonate and give you bubbles in your beer. So the end result is the same.

Bulk priming, always provided you have the priming solution well mixed through your brew, should give consistent carbonation, regardless of bottle size.

Racking for bulk priming also potentially allows your beer to settle in the bottle a little quicker, and you might have a smaller deposit in the bottom of your bottle.

It's your choice. Either method works.

[squirt in the turns]

Is it strictly necessary to rack in order to bulk prime? Can a sugar solution just be poured into the beer in the primary, and then be given a few minutes to disperse? Obviously, stirring up the trub right before bottling would be a bad idea.

[warra48]

Is it strictly necessary to rack in order to bulk prime? Can a sugar solution just be poured into the beer in the primary, and then be given a few minutes to disperse? Obviously, stirring up the trub right before bottling would be a bad idea.

The problem is exactly as you have surmised, you won't properly mix your priming solution without disturbing the crud and yeast layer in the bottom of your fermenter.

If you were to mix it sufficiently to get an even distribution, it would take another day or two of cold crashing to settle it all back down. By then you the yeast might have started to eat into your priming solution, defeating the purpose.