Fermentation Time
Fermentation Time
I have recently started brewing my own beer. The first 2 took 7 days, no problems (tooheys draught & coopers pale ale). The third took 13 days and still had bubbles and head (cascade draught). Is this normal????
13 days is ok.. all should be well
from the 2 i've done suspect the cascade yeast is lager yeast.
this is from their website:
"With my Cascade Bohemian Yeast, the fermentation is a little slower, more measured, and predictable and produces the clean-tasting beers that many home brewers seek."
http://www.cascadehomebrew.com.au/faq/default.asp

from the 2 i've done suspect the cascade yeast is lager yeast.
this is from their website:
"With my Cascade Bohemian Yeast, the fermentation is a little slower, more measured, and predictable and produces the clean-tasting beers that many home brewers seek."
http://www.cascadehomebrew.com.au/faq/default.asp
The supplied yeast is a lager yeast, BUT only7g, so if ferminting at ale temps, should be fine, so if you plan to ferm at lager temps, use 2 packs of yeast for a better result501 wrote:db did you find the spicy ghost draught to be a crap beer with the supplied yeast ??
the first one I did is not impressive.
The missus thought it looked like a nice gift -
should I perhaps try safale ??
cheers 501
normell
"Every day above ground is a good day"
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Re: Fermentation Time
Benno, the time spent in primary is not the best way to gauge whether the beer is brewed. Heads will fall or stay, some will stay in part. Do you use a hydrometer as well?Benno wrote:I have recently started brewing my own beer. The first 2 took 7 days, no problems (tooheys draught & coopers pale ale). The third took 13 days and still had bubbles and head (cascade draught). Is this normal????
Salut!
normell,
the first one I brewed using the 'bavarian' yeast smelt like sulphury crap at ale temps.
2 months later it don't taste too good either?
i am able to get it down to about 19-20 minimum up here.
there are many posts here and elsewhere bagging this and other Cascade products.
For Example, wytf would you make a kit that required extra yeast to brew to it's intended (lagerish) nature ?
crappy.
cheers
501

the first one I brewed using the 'bavarian' yeast smelt like sulphury crap at ale temps.
2 months later it don't taste too good either?
i am able to get it down to about 19-20 minimum up here.
there are many posts here and elsewhere bagging this and other Cascade products.
For Example, wytf would you make a kit that required extra yeast to brew to it's intended (lagerish) nature ?
crappy.
cheers
501

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sol, no i wasn't impressed with either.. both had some bad aroma's going on (sulphurous & burnt rubbery) which i put down to brewing with a lager yeast in hotter weather (+20).. on their website they say the smell will decrease with aging, but mine didnt. if i was to try one again i'd use either an ale yeast or brew it in winter.501 wrote:db did you find the spicy ghost draught to be a crap beer with the supplied yeast ??
the first one I did is not impressive.
The missus thought it looked like a nice gift -
should I perhaps try safale ??
cheers 501
& if it is a lager yeast i'd agree with Normell & pitch 2 packs
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Benno, visible bubbles are CO2, and are a product of fermentation, as well as a sign that it is going on.
Think about it for a sec- a stubby of VB is dead, inert, all the yeast has been taken out of it. It's not fermenting any more. But the CO2 remains, and can be seen as bubbles.
The beer you are making yourself has a small amount live yeast in it when bottled, and will continue to ferment even after you bottle, while "bottle conditioning". You get bubbles while the brew is actively fermenting, and the CO2 that makes them will stay (usually in solution) after all fermenting is over.
MHD, I would hope you beers have CO2 in them "even after fermentation", unless you like flat brews.
The one thing you won't see is bubbles without fermentation.
Think about it for a sec- a stubby of VB is dead, inert, all the yeast has been taken out of it. It's not fermenting any more. But the CO2 remains, and can be seen as bubbles.
The beer you are making yourself has a small amount live yeast in it when bottled, and will continue to ferment even after you bottle, while "bottle conditioning". You get bubbles while the brew is actively fermenting, and the CO2 that makes them will stay (usually in solution) after all fermenting is over.
MHD, I would hope you beers have CO2 in them "even after fermentation", unless you like flat brews.
The one thing you won't see is bubbles without fermentation.
Salut!
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Benno,
I concur with what undercover1 says.
If you think that it was still fermenting because it was bubbling ever so slowly, it was probably done. But a hydrometer is the only way to tell.
By the way, interesting name, Benno. The only other time I've heard it is my great-uncle's middle name (see http://www.brjazz.com)
Oliver
I concur with what undercover1 says.
If you think that it was still fermenting because it was bubbling ever so slowly, it was probably done. But a hydrometer is the only way to tell.
By the way, interesting name, Benno. The only other time I've heard it is my great-uncle's middle name (see http://www.brjazz.com)
Oliver