Amazingly no-one has posted a common CPA recipe, so here's mine - based on other peoples recipe for the same, maybe just a little simpler;
1 Can of coopers pale ale 1.7kg (the GREEN can)
1 can Morgans Lager malt extract 1 kg
200grams of English Crystal malt
1 750ml bottle of coopers pale ale!
method; after the coopers pale ale has sat still in the fridge for 24 hours,pour 2 glasses of coopers pale ale from bottle leaving an inch of dregs (dont be tempted to drink it - you're gonna need it later).
Steal some pantyhose off your wife (or use your own - up to you!) place the crystal malt (now securely ensconced in the pantyhose)into hot water an bring to boil, turn down the heat and leave on slowest simmer possible for 10 minutes. SWhile this is happening drink first glass. after 10 minutes, remove crystal malt put coopers and morgans can into the 3 litres of amber liquid and dissolve. Pour your now amber coloured liquid into youre 'sanitised' fermenter. Top up fermenter to 19 litres with cold water (filtered is best - but do what you do).
With a flourish pour the dregs of your 750ml coopers PA into fermenter, toast yourself! drink second glass and put the lid on fermenter.
brew at 22 degrees for the duration - you want cloudy so we wont be secondarying - fill keg, gas to 180kpa and serve.
Drinking one now - my word its a ringer! Possibly more bitter but the yeast plus crystal makes it awfully close.
Note -for the crystal, do not be tempted to boil longer than 10 minutes, do not squeeze the life out of it, do not run water through it continually
Coopers Pale Ale
how long for the dregs? - 12 hours - going strong at 24. the reason i did it, was i used a starter of sparkling ale, however i pitched into the wort when there was still ice in it (30 odd degrees that day), and at 24 hours the sparkling ale yeast had not even changed the look of the top - nadda - not a cracker - so off to the local pub to buy a longneck. I didnt have time to play round with a starter so just pitched it. - next morning; signs of life and no need to use charachter free dried yeast.
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Thanks PB, this has been added to my recipe book...I've never used the dregs from a bottle conditioned beer before but it sounds like its worth a try! 



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Just one suggestion Pharmboy, bad, bad, bad idea to boil any grain as you can release tanins which give an unmistakable bitterness to your beer. I know I made the mistake ONCE
Temperature for the mash should be between 65-70c, for about an hour rinse the grain (sparge) then boil the wort after the grains have been removed.
I'm not picking fault mate, just letting you know before you possibly spoil a future beer. BTY the coopers pale is one of my basic pleasurable brews, brew booster, 500g LDME and some hops, (I've tried both Tattenager and Fuggle) both were really good, culturing the yeast from a few stubbies or long neck does make all the difference as you've said.
Happy brewing
AC

Temperature for the mash should be between 65-70c, for about an hour rinse the grain (sparge) then boil the wort after the grains have been removed.
I'm not picking fault mate, just letting you know before you possibly spoil a future beer. BTY the coopers pale is one of my basic pleasurable brews, brew booster, 500g LDME and some hops, (I've tried both Tattenager and Fuggle) both were really good, culturing the yeast from a few stubbies or long neck does make all the difference as you've said.
Happy brewing
AC
There's nothing wrong with having nothing to say - unless you insist on saying it. (Anonymous)
AC, wouldnt take it personal, as i've done the same thing - although because 10 minutes was good I figured 20 minutes would be better, and i also figured the more i could squeeze out the better - and i was most certainly wrong - although time has sorted the tannins.
The reason I put in the above instructions is that Grumpy's recomend the same and seem to get no complaints - if simple works for their customers far be it from me to argue. easiest and ultimately safest would probably be to put in hot tap water, bring to the boil, then turn off, and sit for 10-15 minutes, remove grain, then bring back to boil for 5 minutes to sterilize.
I have only done about 10 or 15 steeps of crystal, and a slow barely simmer for 10 minutes has not yet extracted tannins (always use english crystal) - but as I said - leave it longer and you take a risk, if you do it at 70 you'd never extract tannins and could probably leave for an hour or 2 with no ill effects. No thermometer so definately no 68c holding for 60 minute jobs for me - just reading the partial thread is enough for me to know that I'd rather play golf, or go for ride, or go sailing, than spend 2or 3 hours brewing beer. Value for time me
I must have a crap nose for hops, coz i can never smell or taste much in cpa - the fruit and body overwhelmes it to me. I like it unsubtle like LCPA or pilseners
cheers
The reason I put in the above instructions is that Grumpy's recomend the same and seem to get no complaints - if simple works for their customers far be it from me to argue. easiest and ultimately safest would probably be to put in hot tap water, bring to the boil, then turn off, and sit for 10-15 minutes, remove grain, then bring back to boil for 5 minutes to sterilize.
I have only done about 10 or 15 steeps of crystal, and a slow barely simmer for 10 minutes has not yet extracted tannins (always use english crystal) - but as I said - leave it longer and you take a risk, if you do it at 70 you'd never extract tannins and could probably leave for an hour or 2 with no ill effects. No thermometer so definately no 68c holding for 60 minute jobs for me - just reading the partial thread is enough for me to know that I'd rather play golf, or go for ride, or go sailing, than spend 2or 3 hours brewing beer. Value for time me

I must have a crap nose for hops, coz i can never smell or taste much in cpa - the fruit and body overwhelmes it to me. I like it unsubtle like LCPA or pilseners

cheers