Team,
I live in sunny Queensland and do my brewing in my shed in the backyard. It gets quite warm even in winter, so I am looking at going to a fridge with a thermostat set up for 15 - 20 degrees operating temp. Does anyone out there have any pointers with regards to type of thermo, how to set it up etc. I'm not in the market for the 100 odd dollar digital thermos, was hoping one of these would work the same way. I have asked this question in another thread, but thought if I asked again it may receive a few diferent answers. Thanks in advance,
Whitty
Brewing fridges
Brewing fridges
Evo wrote:I'd suggest you swallow a packet of Safale (your body temp would be too hot for a lager yeast) and some finishing hops and call me tomorrow.
in thory you could just use another relay to step up the switching voltage,
i have a digital thermostat and it only switches 3 amps, and i need to switch 240v for a 2400watt eliment so that requires 10 amps,
you need to be compitent with electronics to do it, buy you probably can but some sort of in line step up allready made, but then you are looking at the price of the other thermostat and more things to go wrong,and with cheep you get less tollerance in your control. it could even be +or- 4°C
ps, as with all tem controled opperations make shure you get the switch the right war round, ie, you dont want the thermostat failing and the relay being latched on.
i have a digital thermostat and it only switches 3 amps, and i need to switch 240v for a 2400watt eliment so that requires 10 amps,
you need to be compitent with electronics to do it, buy you probably can but some sort of in line step up allready made, but then you are looking at the price of the other thermostat and more things to go wrong,and with cheep you get less tollerance in your control. it could even be +or- 4°C
ps, as with all tem controled opperations make shure you get the switch the right war round, ie, you dont want the thermostat failing and the relay being latched on.
Whitty,
I am a sparkey and I will tell you now, (and all our other readers) you are breaking the law as soon as you do any unlicensed electrical work in Australia!!! I don't want to be a scare monger but, We had an incident in the neighbouring town of Tennant Creek (500Km north of Alice) which is still in the coroners hands, an evap. cooler had a replacement pump or motor fitted and the earth wire was not connected, something failed and the unit became alive, a seven year old girl touched the unit and was electrocuted. There are a geat deal of complications if anything goes wrong, if your house burns down and it is put down to an electrical fault, and it always is if they can't find anything else, your insurance company finds out that unlicenced electrical work has been carried out, not only no insurance, but possible legal action as well.
The unit you are inquiring about, as other posts have pointed out, is not suitable for the job you wish to do, The link normell has included shows the unit you want, but once again, unless you are 110% sure you know what you are doing, get a proffessional in, it could save your life or that of someone close to you.
Sorry about the sermon but it is a serious issue.
I am a sparkey and I will tell you now, (and all our other readers) you are breaking the law as soon as you do any unlicensed electrical work in Australia!!! I don't want to be a scare monger but, We had an incident in the neighbouring town of Tennant Creek (500Km north of Alice) which is still in the coroners hands, an evap. cooler had a replacement pump or motor fitted and the earth wire was not connected, something failed and the unit became alive, a seven year old girl touched the unit and was electrocuted. There are a geat deal of complications if anything goes wrong, if your house burns down and it is put down to an electrical fault, and it always is if they can't find anything else, your insurance company finds out that unlicenced electrical work has been carried out, not only no insurance, but possible legal action as well.
The unit you are inquiring about, as other posts have pointed out, is not suitable for the job you wish to do, The link normell has included shows the unit you want, but once again, unless you are 110% sure you know what you are doing, get a proffessional in, it could save your life or that of someone close to you.
Sorry about the sermon but it is a serious issue.
Ross
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Dogger Dan
- Posts: 3168
- Joined: Thursday Aug 26, 2004 10:43 am
- Location: Lucan, Ontario, Canada
yeh i agree you need to be totaly compitent to carry out any electrical modifocations, espechaly with mains voltage,
iv been on corses so i can work in high voltage enviroments and some of the pictures they show you in the inductions are horrific, and its not just the 30.000v ones its the standard site voltage too, it does just as much damage,
all the money saving it the world carnt save your life,
iv been on corses so i can work in high voltage enviroments and some of the pictures they show you in the inductions are horrific, and its not just the 30.000v ones its the standard site voltage too, it does just as much damage,
all the money saving it the world carnt save your life,
Thanks team, got a bloke (licensed sparky) lined up to do the installing, just needed a few pointers as to types and setups. Anyone got any piccies or descriptions of what they have done?? BTW, have done an apprenticeship with electronics/radar/radio etc so have some idea about them volt thingamies......
Evo wrote:I'd suggest you swallow a packet of Safale (your body temp would be too hot for a lager yeast) and some finishing hops and call me tomorrow.