homebrewandbeer.com

Team,

I live in sunny Queensland and do my brewing in my shed in the backyard. It gets quite warm even in winter, so I am looking at going to a fridge with a thermostat set up for 15 - 20 degrees operating temp. Does anyone out there have any pointers with regards to type of thermo, how to set it up etc. I'm not in the market for the 100 odd dollar digital thermos, was hoping one of these would work the same way. I have asked this question in another thread, but thought if I asked again it may receive a few diferent answers. Thanks in advance,

Whitty

http://www.tobins.com.au/HTML/ItemHTML/TS-040S.htm

are a good bet at around $45

Normell

Whitty,

If you read the spiel on the thermostat you linked to you'll see it says it isn't big enough for use with mains power.

in thory you could just use another relay to step up the switching voltage,
i have a digital thermostat and it only switches 3 amps, and i need to switch 240v for a 2400watt eliment so that requires 10 amps,
you need to be compitent with electronics to do it, buy you probably can but some sort of in line step up allready made, but then you are looking at the price of the other thermostat and more things to go wrong,and with cheep you get less tollerance in your control. it could even be +or- 4°C

ps, as with all tem controled opperations make shure you get the switch the right war round, ie, you dont want the thermostat failing and the relay being latched on.

Whitty,
I am a sparkey and I will tell you now, (and all our other readers) you are breaking the law as soon as you do any unlicensed electrical work in Australia!!! I don't want to be a scare monger but, We had an incident in the neighbouring town of Tennant Creek (500Km north of Alice) which is still in the coroners hands, an evap. cooler had a replacement pump or motor fitted and the earth wire was not connected, something failed and the unit became alive, a seven year old girl touched the unit and was electrocuted. There are a geat deal of complications if anything goes wrong, if your house burns down and it is put down to an electrical fault, and it always is if they can't find anything else, your insurance company finds out that unlicenced electrical work has been carried out, not only no insurance, but possible legal action as well.
The unit you are inquiring about, as other posts have pointed out, is not suitable for the job you wish to do, The link normell has included shows the unit you want, but once again, unless you are 110% sure you know what you are doing, get a proffessional in, it could save your life or that of someone close to you.
Sorry about the sermon but it is a serious issue.

Thanks Ross,

that brings a lot of things we do into perspective. Sorry about the little girl, hard selling that.

Dogger

yeh i agree you need to be totaly compitent to carry out any electrical modifocations, espechaly with mains voltage,

iv been on corses so i can work in high voltage enviroments and some of the pictures they show you in the inductions are horrific, and its not just the 30.000v ones its the standard site voltage too, it does just as much damage,

all the money saving it the world carnt save your life,

Yeah, in 2002 I got a 22,000Volt hit to my right sholder, still recovering now still.
Shit loads of skin grafts, and still not finished, but I am still here to annoy shit out of youze all
Normell

normell what are you working with, I Have worked up in that range before but only in RADAR transmission sites.

Shaun wrote:normell what are you working with, I Have worked up in that range before but only in RADAR transmission sites.

Powercor contractor, killing bees in hollow concrete poles.

Thanks team, got a bloke (licensed sparky) lined up to do the installing, just needed a few pointers as to types and setups. Anyone got any piccies or descriptions of what they have done?? BTW, have done an apprenticeship with electronics/radar/radio etc so have some idea about them volt thingamies......