I found an 80L esky at our local cheap shop for $69! I have been thinking of making an esky tun anyway because this BIAB thing is not working as well as I would like (great beer, but very low efficency).
I just want opinions, or evidence of why an 80L esky would be too big for a standard 23L batch. Sounds like overkill to me, but it is going to be hard to look past this price (I was looking at paying more than this for an esky of 55L). Maybe I will have to do double batches with it? But then I need to buy an 80L stockpot, unless I use a "second run" English style of sparging I guess.
Anyway, any and all info or opinions wuld be greatly appreciated!
John Palmer wrote:The depth of the grainbed should be no less than one half the shortest dimension of the floor area, nor greater than twice the longest.
It was one of those things I knew deep down but did not want to admit, I have a few of those
But thanks to Palmer, looks like I can get away with a 32L esky, and even the best brand shoulodn't cost too much more than $69 for that size...I hope!
I have the 55L willow esky and when sparging damn near fill this up. Thats said i am doing 30L batches (unintentionally mind you) and with efficiency set to 65% i need around 6-7kg of grain. I would like a bigger esky but then i would need a bigger kettle and a bigger HLT and then a higher pressure hose............
Agree with Rob, make sure you dont spread the grain bed out too thin.
Will all depend on your other components and what batch sizes you are aiming for.
Is that a 30L boil size you are reffering to or a 30L batch size? I usually take 30L total from the mash and boil that down to 23L. According to Palmer 32L esky is plenty for that, but maybe 55L is more appropriate?
Kevnlis wrote:Is that a 30L boil size you are reffering to or a 30L batch size? I usually take 30L total from the mash and boil that down to 23L. According to Palmer 32L esky is plenty for that, but maybe 55L is more appropriate?
Dont seem to get a lot of boil off, prob cos my kettle is a keg that didnt get the lid cut open at the sides - it comes in 2-3 inches. So i reckon i am putting 35L into the boil, getting 30L and leaving 2L to trub.
Seriously need to add less water during sparge but when i measure out the volume i always add that bit extra - bit like my cooking really, or hop additions for that matter.....
Cortez The Killer wrote:
But you'll need some insulation on top of the mash itself - or you will loose a bit of heat to the head space
I agree with that. I use a piece of that camping mat foam, cut to fit exactly on top of the grain bed. It must work, because the top of it feels cool, whereas the botton of it sitting on the grain feels hot. Using that I only lose 1ºC during an hour mash.
Great idea warra, my wife buys heaps of that stuff for the baby carriers she makes so I will just steal a bit off her
I am going to hit the shop tonight and take some measurements of the internal bottom of the esky.
I still don't think the grain bed of the 80L esky will be deep enough to filter properly without doing a double batch, so now I just have to decide if my 3 ring is hot enough to boil 60L in an 80L stockpot.
I now use a 55 l Esky. I used to use a braid but now plug the bung with a little bit of ss screening. My wort is now very lovely and clear and my efficiency, using modified fly sparge (70 deg water slowly poured through a colander during removal) has gone way up! This is the easiest way yet after two years of experimentation. And my chooks like the leftover malt even more now (they dont stagger around anymore). Using as little as 5kg total grain works a super treat.
