Chill haze

[brewer bobby]

Anyone out there who has had a problem with chill haze in all grain beers. If so and they have corrected it and u don't mind sharing ur secret. I would appreciate it. I bought 500k of Pale malt several months ago after running out of my own home made malt which I have never had trouble with and the trouble has began with the chill haze. I will await a reply if any thanks.

[drsmurto]

90 min boil making sure the first 30 min before the first hop addition were vigorous. I turn my NASA burner to full for the first 30 mins and then lower it to a gentle rolling boil for the remaining 60 mins.

The theory is this produces a better hot break causing more of the proteins (chill haze is caused by suspended proteins) to precipitate.

Cheers
DrSmurto

[brewer bobby]

Thanks for the advice. Putting one down tomorrow and will adhere to ur suggestion. Thanks again.

[BribieG]

Polyclar used at the recommended dose is a good chill haze remover and is used by commercial breweries. Even with ales, I always use Polyclar because they often get served at cold temperatures if a keg of ale is in the kegerator with a lager. I don't bother with the long stirring suggested in the instructions, I just mix some up in some boiling water and add it to the beer in cold crash / lagering a couple of days before kegging.

[hirns]

Anyone out there who has had a problem with chill haze in all grain beers. If so and they have corrected it and u don't mind sharing ur secret. I would appreciate it. I bought 500k of Pale malt several months ago after running out of my own home made malt which I have never had trouble with and the trouble has began with the chill haze. I will await a reply if any thanks.

Is this 500kg .... W.A thingy?

Hirns

[brewer bobby]

BribieG. Thanks for your reply.
We are in wait a while state in Aussie,(((((((((West Ausssie.))))))))))Polyclar. Never heard of it. Maybe in a few years it will reach West Aussie.It may be here under a different name like a few examples. eg. We call a cold meat Polony. Over East it's called Devon. In the East they are called Gum boots over here they are called Wellington boots. It just goes on and on. In the meantime where can I get my hands on POLYCLAR. Please advise and I will be on the Phone am Wednesday. Again I am grateful for this forum it's a vast of good info. Please keep it up fellow brewers.

[tazman67]

90 min boil making sure the first 30 min before the first hop addition were vigorous. I turn my NASA burner to full for the first 30 mins and then lower it to a gentle rolling boil for the remaining 60 mins.

The theory is this produces a better hot break causing more of the proteins (chill haze is caused by suspended proteins) to precipitate.

Cheers
DrSmurto

Great Tip Doc.. I do the same..
Plus Polyclar, and Geletine, who needs a filter ?

[Bum]

Plus Polyclar, and Geletine, who needs a filter ?

You raise an issue I was going to post earlier but didn't. My opinion is that if you're going to use polyclar (at recommended doses) then you really should be filtering. I've used it on all of my most recent brews and they have been my brightest yet - but the bottles have a looser sediment (a sediment I believe to be composed of plastic?) and have recently chosen not to use it in future brews. I'm certain this plastic is food-safe but I'd rather not have it in my glass - if I filtered I'd have no issue at all.

By all means, bobby, give it a crack - it really does do a great job - but be aware that you might lose more per bottle to dregs.

And maybe I'm using it wrong.

[squirt in the turns]

I was warned off Polyclar by the guys at Craftbrewer when I told them I wouldn't be filtering. They actually cited a noticable "grittiness" in the finished beer as the reason.

I currently have the first beer I made with a 90 minute boil in the keg, and it's the brightest yet (and it was no-chilled). It was also cold conditioned for about 6 weeks, though. Ironically it's a CPA clone!

[billybushcook]

90 min boil making sure the first 30 min before the first hop addition were vigorous. I turn my NASA burner to full for the first 30 mins and then lower it to a gentle rolling boil for the remaining 60 mins.

The theory is this produces a better hot break causing more of the proteins (chill haze is caused by suspended proteins) to precipitate.

Cheers
DrSmurto

Ahaa!
I didn't realise this was the reason you did a 90 Min boil Doc!
I knew it was for a better hot break but not for curing chill haize.

One never stops learning hey!

Ivé always battled with Chill Haize, using a make shift filter & Polyclar.
Some of my lagers have been clear & bright but most of my other beers have all been haizy.
They are fine at 4 or 5 Deg but I mostly drink them at zero so haize is ever present. (Lagerboy )

This is a good one near zero Deg,





The brew I did on the weekend just gone I tried a two step mash (protien rest @ 50C) to see if that helps, by circulating my mash through a small coil chiller/heater in a pot of boiling water....What a PITA!

Thx for the tip Doc.

Mick.

[hirns]

I have used it twice and the first time it was fantastic. The second time however some got past the filter seal. I had to refilter it as the grit was everywhere. It wouldn't sit on the bottom of the glass either, the co2 would bring it to the surface, drop it and all over again. I had the same problem with bottled beer. I have not used it since. As I usually make 23l batches I bottle three or four longnecks and this doesn't go through the filtter so you end up drinking plastic granules. So yes as Squirt and Bum said, you need to filter this stuff.

I will use it again but only if I'm doing a 19l batch. I don't get chill haze so the geletine does fine to drop most of the stuff before filtering.

Hirns

[drsmurto]

I have used polyclar, more so in lagers or ales i know are destined to be served at lower temps than i normally would.

Maybe its just the laziness in me but whenever i go to the extra effort of fining my beer i do it over the course of a week or more. Chill it down to 1C and leave it for a few days then hit it with gelatine (if it needs it), wait a few more days and then throw in polyclar. Wait a few more days and then rack to a keg.

I have filtered a few times but it's more likely to be used on less flocculating yeast such as the alt or kolsch yeasts.

Never noticed anything in the glass other than beer.

[SuperBroo]

hey Brewer Bobby,
I got some polyclar from TWOC at the Bibra Lake markets,
they call it 'Brewbrite'.

You shoud use a filter as well though,

your beers come up amazingly clear with it.

i just ....

add finings and then put fermenter in fridge.
2 days later...
add polyclar, leave in fridge...
2 days later...
filter / keg.

cheers,
Grog

[argon]

90 min boil making sure the first 30 min before the first hop addition were vigorous. I turn my NASA burner to full for the first 30 mins and then lower it to a gentle rolling boil for the remaining 60 mins.

The theory is this produces a better hot break causing more of the proteins (chill haze is caused by suspended proteins) to precipitate.

Cheers
DrSmurto

You bring up an interesting thought there DrS. The boil process you're describing is pretty close to what i do, but not with any intention of making clearer wort, just to make sure i'm not getting and SMM. Last 2 batches i haven't used any finnings at all. Both came out crystal clear. First one i didn't filter second one i did. Got me considering not bothering with polyclar as i may have prevented chill haze through my other processes.

[BribieG]

Polyclar: http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=726 - available online. However if that Brewbrite from TWOC is the real Brewbrite then it is even better as you can use it in the kettle to floc out hot break as well.
Chill haze is caused by polyphenols that stay in the beer after fermentation and something like polyclar settles them out in the beer, and Brewbrite latches onto them in the kettle (add at the end of the boil) and flocs them out at that stage. The other methods such as a good boil etc are designed not to get them in the first place.

[SuperBroo]

Hey BribieG,

Do you think BrewBrite is a better product for use in the kettle, than Whirlfoc ?

cheers,
Grog

[BribieG]

Brewbrite is a combination of a Carragheen product and a PVPP product. If you can get the real Brewbrite then yes definitely - I mix it to a runny paste in a little pyrex jug and pour it into the boil , and WHAM, the boiling wort turns to instant bread crumb soup . I let it settle out for 20 mins after the end of the boil and always get crystal clear wort into my no chill cube.
The batch I have is from a bulk buy and it's getting a bit old, I understand that as it gets older it isn't as good at removing chill haze, so I do a double dip by also using Polyclar in cold conditioning.
However the batch I have is miraculous when it comes to floccing out hot break

[speedie]

If doing light style brews extended boil times can caramelize the brew
We only ever boil for 60 minutes and that gives a fantastic protein break

We don’t filter or add anything to batch only cold settle and wait
Clarity is not a clear subject is it
As coppers state “cloudy but fine”
speedie

[Bum]

Oh shit, guys. He's right. He doesn't do any of those things. Neither should we!

[drsmurto]

If doing light style brews extended boil times can caramelize the brew
We only ever boil for 60 minutes and that gives a fantastic protein break

We don’t filter or add anything to batch only cold settle and wait
Clarity is not a clear subject is it
As coppers state “cloudy but fine”
speedie

If you really are that good a brewer Speedie why aren't you involved in the christmas lotto. A chance for you to either win and receive beers from us or for us to taste your beer.

I suspect it is the possibility of having people other than your cronies tasting your beer and commenting on it that has you hiding under your rock.

All talk Speedie.