Boonies LCPA

[TommyH]

Just about to brew another batch of this wonderful recipe and have realised I have run out of Cascade hops. Any thoughts on how it would go replacing them with Amarillo?
This is a fantastic recipe by the way.

1 tin Morgans Stockmans Draught
1.5 kg of Morgans Extra Pale Malt Extract (Liquid)
15g of Cascade pellets - 15min
10g Cluster pellets - 15 min
US56 Yeast.
12g of Chinook Pellets (dry hopped at rack).

[bullfrog]

I've interchanged Cascade and Amarillo before with good results. Amarillo has quite a stronger flavour, in my opinion though, so just maybe add 10g instead of the 15.

[TommyH]

Thanks Bullfrog. Will give it a go.
Have you tried this recipe yourself?

[bullfrog]

I haven't, mate. I do love APA's so am constantly knocking up brews that look similar, though. Been a long time since I brewed with extract - do you find that this recipe comes out a bit heavier than what you're aiming for? Have you experimented with adding maybe 200g of dextrose to thin out the body a touch?

[TommyH]

Hi again.

This is the closest thing I have ever brewed to a LCPA. It's not too heavy. Wouldn't ruin it with dex.
I normally leave my brews for three months before drinking. This one I tried after three weeks in the bottle and it was fantastic.
Definitely has to be dry hopped with chinook near the end of fermentation to give that aroma. I did a side by side taste test with a real LCPA and I really cant say which one was better.
Try it. You won't be disappointed.

[bullfrog]

Dex isn't a bad ingredient for extract brewing, if used correctly. It produces a similar effect to an AG grist mashed at a lower temp. I recently mashed a GA at about 62-63 degrees and it has come out VERY dry. This would be similar to using too much dex.

When I was brewing extract, my stock fermentables list for APA's was 3kg extract and 200-300g Dex. Was a great base to work off then add spec grain and play around with different hops and hop schedules.

[TommyH]

You lost me at "AG grist mashed at a lower temp"
Never brewed AG Only enhanced kits and extracts. I always find that dex makes that kind of brew "watery" if you know what I mean.

[bullfrog]

The 'wateriness' is what I mean by a thinner body. 200g in that recipe wouldn't make it too watery, from past experience, it'd just thin the body that slight amount to bring it closer to style. That all being said, if the recipe is a winner and you love it, don't change it at all!

[BrianBrew]

Hi guys I'm attempting this classic recipe for the first time this weekend and just wanted to ask 2 questions that I hadnt seen covered in any of the other threads

1. There is no mention of any carbing process here, does the recipe contain enough sugars so that is not needed or is there a standard amount used at rack or bottling steps that's just been ommitted for whatever reason?

2. How much of the yeast is pitched in? Again its probably a stupid question but I figured id ask rather than waste a batch

[emnpaul]

1. The commercial version of this is reasonably high in carbonation. If you want it to be as faithful to the original as possible then if bottle priming go with just under a teaspoon per longneck or if bulk priming use a calculator such as this one: http://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

2. Not a stupid question, particularly if you've only used the yeasts under the lid of the beer kit tins which are approximately half the size. Use all of it.

[BrianBrew]

Thanks mate, I'll chuck the lot in, whats the worst that can happen

[emnpaul]

Thanks mate, I'll chuck the lot in, whats the worst that can happen

You'll end up with a dangerous neurotixin suspended in an irresistible, fermented malt solution, i.e. beer.

[BrianBrew]

Hi fellas, had a follow up question on this, I brewed my first batch of this stuff last Saturday and one week on Im not sure but I think something has gone wrong somewhere along the way. I followed the instructions to the letter with the brew, and dry hopped after 72 hours however today when I took a sample I didnt think it was right. The brew is still fermenting and the colour looks fine however I noticed that the distinctive citrus hoppy smell of lcpa was missing and after tasting a little its got a very bitter aftertaste.

Is this par for the course at this point in the process or have I gone off track somewhere. If so is there anything I can do to save the batch at this point or do I just have to wait and see how it all turns out. I thought about chucking some extra hops in to try boost the aroma but wasnt sure if that would increase the bitterness also?

Any theories?

[warra48]

Yes, I have a theory.

Tasting beer from the fermenter doesn't give you the best idea of how it will turn out.

I'd wait for 2 weeks post brewing, then gradually chill your beer for a few days to drop out the excess yeast and other undesirable solids.

You will find the beer will be much better a few weeks after bottling or kegging.

How much hops did you use for your dry hop, and what's your batch size?

You could add some more dry hops, and it will not add any further bitterness. To add bitterness you need to isomerise the hops by boiling.

[BrianBrew]

I added 15g of Chinook at 72 hours of a 22l batch. Its only been in the fermentor for a week so Im guessing there is no need to panic yet. Im surprised by the lack of hoppy aroma though. I think I might add a bit more to be on the safe side, I love a strong hoppy smelling ale so if it goes over a little that wouldnt be a bad thing in my book

How low would you recommend chilling to before racking?

Thanks Warra

[warra48]

I'm not a fan of racking. Do you have any specific reason to rack your beer?

I chill my primary fermenter down to about 2 or so ºC over a couple of days. I leave it at that for about a week, then bottle.

Your planned extra dry hop addition should be fine. Dry hopping only 72 hours in will probably result in the cO² scrubbing out some of your desired hop aromas. Dry hopping is best done when your primary fermentation is done or almost done.

By the way, Boonie's recipe is cracker. I brewed it about 6 or 7 years ago before going AG, and it turned out very well.

[BrianBrew]

I didnt rack it, I just dry hopped at 72 hours when I removed my krausen collar. Dont have a second fermentor yet as opinions on its usefulness vs risk seem to vary

[drsmurto]

No need to rack to dry hop. I have a mild in primary I just dry hopped. 5 days of primary ferment, krausen had dropped, FG was reached and yeast was floccing.

I do rack sometimes but it is not necessary. Extra time in primary and a few days/a week cold conditioning is similar. I am simplifying my brewing these days due to time constraints (a child does that).

[BrianBrew]

One more noobie question around the cold conditioning process, is it suitable to do this even if your not bulk priming? What I mean is, if I cold condition wont I be taking out some/most of the residual yeast thats necessary for priming at bottling stage, or is there enough yeast left over to ensure the beer carbs up nicely even after cold conditioning

[CrookedFingers]

Hi Brian,
there will be enough yeast to carb up. Will just take a little longer.
I have done it many times.

She'll be right !!
CF