Hydrometer Question
Hydrometer Question
Hi all - thanks for a great resource!
I have a Coopers Australian Ale that has been fermenting for almost two weeks, and a question about my hydrometer reading. My OG was a satisfactory 1038 - my problem is that everytime I take a reading...the SG changes (i.e. isn't consistent). Sometimes it is 1030...other times 1012 or 1020! I have tried all the techniques (spinning, bouncing etc) with no real success...I don't think it is the Hyrdrometer as I get a reading of 1 in 20Degree H20!
The only thing I can think of is that I forgot to put the sediment reducer on the tap before the brew...and it is the sediment that is interferring with my reading, does this sound plausible? Regardless thanks to this site I have decided to bottle after 2 weeks (rather than the 6 days estimated in the kit)...your thought/knowledge would be appreciated!
On another note; My brew sits in a difficult-to-access cupboard...that was making my temperature checking quite a pain in the A... I got a Christmas gift of an indorr/outdoor weather station, that transmits the outdoor temp to the display unit. I now have the outdoor thermometer sitting on my brew in the cupboard and can see the temp from the comfort of my lounge room! It also has the bonus of recording the Max and Min temperatures over any given period! Weather Shmether....Beer is Fair!
I have a Coopers Australian Ale that has been fermenting for almost two weeks, and a question about my hydrometer reading. My OG was a satisfactory 1038 - my problem is that everytime I take a reading...the SG changes (i.e. isn't consistent). Sometimes it is 1030...other times 1012 or 1020! I have tried all the techniques (spinning, bouncing etc) with no real success...I don't think it is the Hyrdrometer as I get a reading of 1 in 20Degree H20!
The only thing I can think of is that I forgot to put the sediment reducer on the tap before the brew...and it is the sediment that is interferring with my reading, does this sound plausible? Regardless thanks to this site I have decided to bottle after 2 weeks (rather than the 6 days estimated in the kit)...your thought/knowledge would be appreciated!
On another note; My brew sits in a difficult-to-access cupboard...that was making my temperature checking quite a pain in the A... I got a Christmas gift of an indorr/outdoor weather station, that transmits the outdoor temp to the display unit. I now have the outdoor thermometer sitting on my brew in the cupboard and can see the temp from the comfort of my lounge room! It also has the bonus of recording the Max and Min temperatures over any given period! Weather Shmether....Beer is Fair!
Re: Hydrometer Question
Hi,
I don't bother with hydro readings any more. Just leave it for 2 weeks and then give it a quick taste to make sure it's attenuated enough (i.e. doesn't taste too sweet).
And welcome to the forum....
CHeers,
Tim
I don't bother with hydro readings any more. Just leave it for 2 weeks and then give it a quick taste to make sure it's attenuated enough (i.e. doesn't taste too sweet).
And welcome to the forum....
CHeers,
Tim
Re: Hydrometer Question
Tim, Tim, a brewer without a hydrometer is like a carpenter without a tape measure, it tells you where you are going with your beer.........sob. 
As for thyraeus I would definitely question the integrity of your hydrometer and invest in another or try drawing of fifty ml or so, tip it and go again.

As for thyraeus I would definitely question the integrity of your hydrometer and invest in another or try drawing of fifty ml or so, tip it and go again.
Re: Hydrometer Question
Thanks Guys,
With the help of this site I am not concerned (2 weeks is up tomorrow) - but do like the 'science of brewing' and am keep to get an understanding of how the gravity changes over fermentation...and what 'me'alkihol' content might be... so a hydrometer is a must - that said - even after drawing some off before measuring - I reckon that the lack of a sediment filter might be my problem....and was wondering if anyone else had seen similar problems!
Cheers
With the help of this site I am not concerned (2 weeks is up tomorrow) - but do like the 'science of brewing' and am keep to get an understanding of how the gravity changes over fermentation...and what 'me'alkihol' content might be... so a hydrometer is a must - that said - even after drawing some off before measuring - I reckon that the lack of a sediment filter might be my problem....and was wondering if anyone else had seen similar problems!
Cheers
Re: Hydrometer Question
I don't use a sediment filter in my fermenter. I lean mine back about 10º from the vertical away from the tap, and it helps to keep the tap outlet clear.
The SG of your beer will not magically increase once it is down. It can only go downwards from where it is.
It seems to me the problem may be with sediment etc in your hydro sample giving false readings. I usually take a sample and draw about ½ a tube. I throw the contents away, and then take my proper sample. Spin your hydrometer, and wait about 10 to 15 minutes to allow any CO² in the sample to dissipate. Then take a look and see what the reading is.
I only take 3 readings with my beer. First, into the kettle to calculate mash efficiency (I brew AG), then OG into the fermenter, then FG just before bottling. I don't bother with interim readings, as I normally don't bottle before 2 weeks in the fermenter.
The SG of your beer will not magically increase once it is down. It can only go downwards from where it is.
It seems to me the problem may be with sediment etc in your hydro sample giving false readings. I usually take a sample and draw about ½ a tube. I throw the contents away, and then take my proper sample. Spin your hydrometer, and wait about 10 to 15 minutes to allow any CO² in the sample to dissipate. Then take a look and see what the reading is.
I only take 3 readings with my beer. First, into the kettle to calculate mash efficiency (I brew AG), then OG into the fermenter, then FG just before bottling. I don't bother with interim readings, as I normally don't bottle before 2 weeks in the fermenter.
Re: Hydrometer Question
So... I bottled after two weeks - I'll let you know in 2-3 weeks how the Pale Ale turns out (I am hopeful, as all indication thus far a very good).
I purchased a new (2nd) hydrometer and decided to test it...and use the Cooper lager that came with the kit.
1 can of Coopers Lager
250g maltodextrine,
250g dextrose,
and 500g LDME... plus 2.5g of finishing hops (why not?)
OG with my old Hydrometer 1040...with the new 1042 - so I thought perhaps my hydrometer was ok. 36 hrs later I took my first reading (more to confirm fermentation was going ahead, no airlock activity, but obviously a seal issue as the aroma was unmistakable). with the old Hydromter I got 1020(ish - wasn't consistent) with the new 1012! So I have decided to trust the new one?
Interestingly....the night after brewing my first lager (so last night) I was lying on the couch drinking a couple of Tiger Ales that had been left by a visitor who drunk my Coopers! I used to consider this a pretty mono-faceted beer without much complexity, but after brewing the lager and 'tasting' everything I am absolutely amazed how my detection and appreciation for the bottled stuff has changed...I am able to detect and taste the lager malt in the beer almost as though I have my head over the saucepan! That being said I have taken a very 'tastebud' approch to my brewing - I taste my sugars, malt, wort...I even taste the sediment in the fermenter after bottling - my theory is a better understand of the separate flavours and aromas will help when when I get skilled enough to 'develop' my own beers (I did get caught out the time I unconciously licked my finger to 'taste' the Coopers sanitising powder on my finger!).
Thanks again!
I purchased a new (2nd) hydrometer and decided to test it...and use the Cooper lager that came with the kit.
1 can of Coopers Lager
250g maltodextrine,
250g dextrose,
and 500g LDME... plus 2.5g of finishing hops (why not?)
OG with my old Hydrometer 1040...with the new 1042 - so I thought perhaps my hydrometer was ok. 36 hrs later I took my first reading (more to confirm fermentation was going ahead, no airlock activity, but obviously a seal issue as the aroma was unmistakable). with the old Hydromter I got 1020(ish - wasn't consistent) with the new 1012! So I have decided to trust the new one?
Interestingly....the night after brewing my first lager (so last night) I was lying on the couch drinking a couple of Tiger Ales that had been left by a visitor who drunk my Coopers! I used to consider this a pretty mono-faceted beer without much complexity, but after brewing the lager and 'tasting' everything I am absolutely amazed how my detection and appreciation for the bottled stuff has changed...I am able to detect and taste the lager malt in the beer almost as though I have my head over the saucepan! That being said I have taken a very 'tastebud' approch to my brewing - I taste my sugars, malt, wort...I even taste the sediment in the fermenter after bottling - my theory is a better understand of the separate flavours and aromas will help when when I get skilled enough to 'develop' my own beers (I did get caught out the time I unconciously licked my finger to 'taste' the Coopers sanitising powder on my finger!).
Thanks again!
Re: Hydrometer Question
Tut Tut.warra48 wrote: I only take 3 readings with my beer. First, into the kettle to calculate mash efficiency (I brew AG), then OG into the fermenter, then FG just before bottling. I don't bother with interim readings, as I normally don't bottle before 2 weeks in the fermenter.
Taking several readings over the course of ferment means more samples to taste!
I reckon i would take 5 from the time it hits the fermenter to the time its racked into the keg!
Re: Hydrometer Question
The Hydrometer can be out if it is not clean or has any oils etc on it surface. Soak it in pink stain and then wipe over with a clean soft cloth.
wah
wah
Re: Hydrometer Question
g'day.
first time poster, first time h/brewer..
my mate laughed his head off when i asked him about the hydrometer - he just bottles e/2 wks.
But like Thyraeus, I'm into the 'science of it'. Today is the 2 wk mark, and this is what I have w/coopers draught kit:
* SP around 1008, has moved for 5 days (was away for the first 9 days)
* temp around 28 the whole time
* airtight
* opened to test for head, none. Smells quite sweet. Got sediment.
So, do I wait for the hydrometer to show 1040? Is it the higher temp that is throwing the reading out.
Or as my mate would say, should i 'just bloody bottle it'.
first time poster, first time h/brewer..
my mate laughed his head off when i asked him about the hydrometer - he just bottles e/2 wks.
But like Thyraeus, I'm into the 'science of it'. Today is the 2 wk mark, and this is what I have w/coopers draught kit:
* SP around 1008, has moved for 5 days (was away for the first 9 days)
* temp around 28 the whole time
* airtight
* opened to test for head, none. Smells quite sweet. Got sediment.
So, do I wait for the hydrometer to show 1040? Is it the higher temp that is throwing the reading out.
Or as my mate would say, should i 'just bloody bottle it'.
- Clean Brewer
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- Location: Hervey Bay, Qld
- Contact:
Re: Hydrometer Question
Hey mate,timytim wrote:g'day.
first time poster, first time h/brewer..
my mate laughed his head off when i asked him about the hydrometer - he just bottles e/2 wks.
But like Thyraeus, I'm into the 'science of it'. Today is the 2 wk mark, and this is what I have w/coopers draught kit:
* SP around 1008, has moved for 5 days (was away for the first 9 days)
* temp around 28 the whole time
* airtight
* opened to test for head, none. Smells quite sweet. Got sediment.
So, do I wait for the hydrometer to show 1040? Is it the higher temp that is throwing the reading out.
Or as my mate would say, should i 'just bloody bottle it'.
Beer sounds very ready to bottle, beer would start off around 1040 and finish about 1008 as it is now, the reading doesnt go up, it goes down..

The 1 thing that is a concern is that you say your brew was at 28 degrees the whole time, that is a very hot temp for beer to be brewed at, the ideal temp is 18 degrees for an ale(maybe up to 20 degrees), first thing is to try get your brew temp down and you will have much better beer..
CB
To be updated shortly....
HOMEBREW: IF I HAD TO EXPLAIN, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND
HOMEBREW: IF I HAD TO EXPLAIN, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND
Re: Hydrometer Question
tks for that. more confident to bottle now. When i took my first reading on day 1 though, it was the same. As i said in my last post, i was away for a while, but when i returned, it was still around 1002. I'v never had a reading above 1008. In fact, it seems to be slowly moving up, not down.Beer sounds very ready to bottle, beer would start off around 1040 and finish about 1008 as it is now, the reading doesnt go up, it goes down..![]()
If the yeast was old, and the brew warm, would that slow things down?
cheers
- Clean Brewer
- Posts: 356
- Joined: Thursday Apr 10, 2008 5:14 pm
- Location: Hervey Bay, Qld
- Contact:
Re: Hydrometer Question
timytim,timytim wrote:tks for that. more confident to bottle now. When i took my first reading on day 1 though, it was the same. As i said in my last post, i was away for a while, but when i returned, it was still around 1002. I'v never had a reading above 1008. In fact, it seems to be slowly moving up, not down.Beer sounds very ready to bottle, beer would start off around 1040 and finish about 1008 as it is now, the reading doesnt go up, it goes down..![]()
If the yeast was old, and the brew warm, would that slow things down?
cheers
If it has been at 28 degrees for 2 weeks, it should be well and truly finished especially if it is a kit yeast you are using.. Also hydrometers are accurate at 20degrees, if you measure at 20degrees and its 1002 then measure at 28degrees it is going to read around 1005.. Quite a swing in points if measurements are taken at different temperatures..
Check out this topic on Basic Brewing Instructions and Monitering your brew.. I leave mine for 2 weeks regardless at 18degrees then crash chill and keg..

http://homebrewandbeer.com/forum/viewto ... f=2&t=3814
CB
To be updated shortly....
HOMEBREW: IF I HAD TO EXPLAIN, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND
HOMEBREW: IF I HAD TO EXPLAIN, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND
Re: Hydrometer Question
ok, cheers.timytim,
If it has been at 28 degrees for 2 weeks, it should be well and truly finished especially if it is a kit yeast you are using.. Also hydrometers are accurate at 20degrees, if you measure at 20degrees and its 1002 then measure at 28degrees it is going to read around 1005.. Quite a swing in points if measurements are taken at different temperatures..
Check out this topic on Basic Brewing Instructions and Monitering your brew.. I leave mine for 2 weeks regardless at 18degrees then crash chill and keg..![]()
http://homebrewandbeer.com/forum/viewto ... f=2&t=3814
CB
- billybushcook
- Posts: 539
- Joined: Friday Nov 09, 2007 10:10 am
- Location: Hunter Valley
Re: Hydrometer Question
I used to use hydrometer readings, but found they were always predictable, I guess because I was always brewing the same kit at the same temp, now use the glad wrap method & same deal, same s.g same colour, so hydrometer not nescessary for the way I brew.
Did Coopers Lager for about 16yrs & have now switched to Aussie Pale ale with the BE2, :- 10 days @ 24C every time (kit yeast)
Cheers, Mick.
Did Coopers Lager for about 16yrs & have now switched to Aussie Pale ale with the BE2, :- 10 days @ 24C every time (kit yeast)
Cheers, Mick.
Re: Hydrometer Question
If you are being really anal I have heard that it is wise to graph the readings every couple of days and that a steady decrease infers a healthy ferment.
If the readings decrease and plateau and then decrease again it may point to an an healthy ferment and maybe an infection. Anyone else heard this?
If the readings decrease and plateau and then decrease again it may point to an an healthy ferment and maybe an infection. Anyone else heard this?
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