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Oak is something you probably want to control in the time that it is in contact with the beer.
From my experience a chunk, or chip, per bottle, could possibly be too much in something that you want to age.
Depending on the type of oak you are using, results can vary greatly. I have used 1g per ...

You won't convert any starches at boiling temps as the enzymes will be denatured. If anything you will just be adding tannins.

Oats on the other hand - http://www.themadfermentationist.com/20 ... t.html?m=1

In the mash?

What does boiling flaked barley do for you?

Kolsch Styled SMaSH
100% weyermann ale malt
25 IBU of super alpha + some at 15 mins.
Wyeast Kolsch yeast.

Probably my favorite saison yeast. Explains the high attenuation - its a work horse. I prefer to ferment that one a little cooler than the Belgian strains, but that's just my tastes. It works really well with citrusy hops too.

Why the rush? Leave it a bit longer. The longer contact with the yeast will help in clearing up by-products from fermentation, & allow more yeast to drop out of suspension. I leave most of my beers on the yeast for 10-14 days, or 7 on the yeast + 2 in the keg (at room temp) if I'm in a rush.

You've ...

I'm probably not the best person to be commenting on kit beers, but for my thinking I would:
1. Steep the hops. I think a little bitterness (which may only be negligible) will not go astray in balancing out the extra sweetness the from the additional fermentables.
2. Use S04, Windsor, Nottingham, or ...

Cheers guys. Did not realise it was that long.
Yes, plenty of beers have been made & consumed in that time - especially Saisons

Cracker of a beer. One of my favourites. Farmhouse Ales has some great info on this beer:

Forget the Spices. All of Duponts spice character comes from the yeast - WY3725 - fermented hot 30-35c.
Forget crystal malts & maybe the candi sugar. Dupont use 100% Pilsner malt (Dingemans), so go for the ...

Beerpig wrote:Not sure about Green Dragon but prepare yourself for a flaming

Cheers

yerp wait til the rednecks get a look at this one.
duck.

And you know what, some days I need to re learn it all myself, look at Kurtz and I, for me, nothing sets me off more than partial information.


partial information?!.. DD i have respect for all the bits & pieces i've picked up from you over the year or so that i've been on here. & i really am ...

back to the hose bit :) i use 10mm clear (pvc i *think*) hosing from bunnings. it works well for me..
my only gripe is that it doesn't stand up too well to sanitizing with iodophor or bleach after a few runs.. iodophor colours it amber & bleach turns it an opague white.. i keep a few 2m lengths ...

or add another addition at flame out.. double that of your 5min addition

do you strain your wort into the fermentor BK?.. with an OG of 1062 your efficiency is really really low going from what i'm getting (around 40%)

hey guys.. check out this link for some more info. it's pretty much the method i use for doing partials:

http://www.bmbrews.com.au/index.php/info/partial.html

I'm stumped BK.. i plugged your recipe into beersmith & came up with pretty much the same figures as you did

BK, as dogger has said high gravity boils can be harder to estimate the IBU's on.. but you should be able to get closer than a diff of 30ibu IMO

for starters i'd try adding all extract (dry & liquid) post boil. the lower the gravity of the boil, the better IMO.. helps with better bitterness ...

Don't forget http://www.esbeer.com.au Shaun.. one of the better ones i've come across. along with http://www.bmbrews.com.au

yeah give the mash hop a try.. i mash hop most of my brews.

by the way i forgot to mention that with all the above recipes the LME i added after the boil. i like to keep the boil gravity low.. adding the LME to the pot at the end of the boil. it helps to get better extraction from the hops & help ...