homebrewandbeer.com

Hi All,

I was also told that they use the same yeast for priming as they do for primary fermentation. So, I'm with Pale_Ale on this issue.

Danzar,
My guess is that Hoegaarden add yeast for the same reason that Coopers do. That is, they remove a lot of the yeast after the primary ferment and then ...

Hi All,

I was lucky enough to have Tim Cooper take me on a short tour of the Coopers brewery a few weeks ago. I was really impressed by his detailed knowledge of the whole process. He's a top bloke to boot 8) . Anyway, I spent a while picking his brains about how they make their beer. In particular ...

But I put so much mental energy (ie excersise) into brewing that I'm sure it'll even out!

Hi Guys,

My guess it that the changes in the air temp during defrosting won't affect the temp of the beer in the fermenter. Liquids take a long time to warm and cool compared to gases (ie air). Look at it this way, have you ever gone to the fridge to get a drink, had a sip and then said " Damn ...

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this yet :wink: . Gecko, the first, best and cheapest thing you can do is read the online book How To Brew . This is simply fantastic and it is FREE. It covers everything from the bare basics to a complete guide to all grain brewing. Again, simply fantastic ...

Hi All,

Does anyone have a list of the online HB stores in Australia? If people could list some for me, that'd be great.

In particular, I'm looking for a HLT electric heater element. I want the one that holds/clips onto the side of the HLT, not the ones that require a hole to be drilled in the ...

Get a second fermentor and have two brewing at the same time. Keep them at 20 degrees and follow the info above. This'll improve your beer and only costs you another fermentor.

Cheers,

Adam L

Hi ScBlack,

Have a read of this .

It's a little heavy going but it explains everything that you want to know.

In short, know what water your stating with. There no use adding stuff if you don't know what your adding it to. Call your water supplier and they'll send you out a spec sheet.

Last ...

Hi Guys :)

I can see your points of view. I'm glad they work well for you. The main reason I warm my largers is so that I have a better idea of how much CO2 is actually in the beer at priming. As I said, after a cold ferment, a rest and then an even colder lagering process, I'm not exactly sure ...

Oliver, sounds like a good idea. I read an article on "krausening" the other day that may be relevent (can find it now though :roll: ). It suggested adding a starter of yeast that is at high krausen to a wort that has pretty much finished fermenting. It was supposed to help attenuation and consume ...

Hi Biggles,

I'm new too, but here are my thoughts/what I've read:

1) The diacetyl rest is best done before the wort is finished fermenting. Say at 1020 instead of 1012. The yeast is more active and the increased temp helps the active yeast to consume the diacetyl. Possibly not a big issue though ...

I have harvested 2 cups of the slurry and it's in my cold fridge waiting for the next larger to come along :)

Interestingly, the slurry from the Wyeast Danish Larger yeast did not separate out into 2 distict layers (turb and yeast). It remains as one loose mass. This didn't change when I added 1 L ...

Thanks again. Since I started this post I've read all of Palmer. It's a great read!

I chose to pitch at 24 degrees and put in the fridge straight away. I made a 2 day diacatyl reast when the SpG (specific grav) hit 1020. The SpG was then 1012 and I've lagered the beer at 1-2 degrees for 3 weeks now ...

Hi BierMeister,

I actually used the wheat malt to prime an amber ale. Perhaps not standard, but the amber had such a good strong malty flavour that I didn't need any extra barley malt. I wanted a good/big head to go with it, so I tried wheat malt.

Perhaps I'll just include wheat in the wort and ...

Hi all,

Sorry for the confusion, I was using SG to mean Specific Gravity.

Cheers,

Adam L

I recently used 230 g of wheat malt to prime my beer. It gave a great head, nice and dense, but the beer was a bit under carbonated. Not flat, just not as much as I'd have liked. But the point remains that wheat malt (due to the protien) is a sure fire way to get a good head.


Slight hijack: Anyone ...

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies. I did a test last night. I'm making a wash at the moment and I measured the SG by filling the tube from the spigot and spinning the hydro. The reading was 1050. Then, I removed the hydro, capped the tube and shook it, then removed the cap to let out the gas. I ...

Thanks GregB,

Much appreciated. It's not hard to find info on the net about this. But, as always, sorting the wheat from the chaff.... or perhaps, the wort from the turb :wink: is a bit difficult when you don't have some background knowledge to weigh it against.


Thanks Ed :) Printed and will read ...

Thanks GregB,

I agree, I'll do an infusion for my first AG (I've done part mash before). But I'm keen to learn as much as I can about brewing.

I hadn't heard of the brewing Network before! This seems like a great source of information. However, downloading an 80-90 mb MP3 at work is a no-no ...

Brent/Bret: Glad you post disappeared.

RWH: Cheers. I use the spin method but quite often get air bubbles attaching to the hydrometer as it settles. I find it makes a 2-3 point difference compared to flattening the beer first. It also gives a level playing field when comparing reading day to day ...